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I would think oil filter manufacturers buy the "paper" from different vendors so the test results could vary from time to time. A VERY efficient filter will also plug faster and then the oil would go thru the bypass valve from then on. I only buy WIX filters because that's all WIX makes. And Baldwin only makes filters so I would also trust them.
A "micron" is a millionth of a meter or .00003937". So a 5 micron filter would remove particles down to .00019" which is way smaller than needed for an engine oil filter but great for a fuel injection filter. For engine oil filters a 15 micron (.00059") is more than adequate since main bearing clearances start at .0015".
Proof that even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while. I used a Mobil1 filter on the new engine, and changed to K&N after break in. Both are top rated on the website MelWff linked to. How about that.
Its Official ! The can of worms has been opened. Posters, make sure your statement mentions yours is the best and nothing else will do.
Begin the debate.
I use anything but Fram. Delco, Wix, NAPA, K&N, STP. I sleep fine.
I would think oil filter manufacturers buy the "paper" from different vendors so the test results could vary from time to time. A VERY efficient filter will also plug faster and then the oil would go thru the bypass valve from then on. I only buy WIX filters because that's all WIX makes. And Baldwin only makes filters so I would also trust them.
A "micron" is a millionth of a meter or .00003937". So a 5 micron filter would remove particles down to .00019" which is way smaller than needed for an engine oil filter but great for a fuel injection filter. For engine oil filters a 15 micron (.00059") is more than adequate since main bearing clearances start at .0015".
I would like to point out that if you have .0015 bearing clearance that it is only .00075 radially.......a .0015 particle will score a bearing if the clearance is .0015......
Guess who makes Delcos?
Fram makes good stuff and lower grade also.
on the DD usually run only Wix and whatever brand oil is cheapest at 179k it still has 42psi hot idle. Felt like I was throwing away money with syn every 3k.
On a higher buck motor I suppose buying better is cheap insurance...maybe.
For most 350s just about any brand of either will work just fine. Hell for yrs on my work trucks Id buy that reconsituted oil from Chief, they all got over 200k on em. Is one better probably I dont care and wouldnt know the difference of a motor lasting 150k or 163k.
Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40 European Formula only (requires a very different formulation than Mobil's other "synthetics" to meet Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc specifications)in every car (including the C3 but roller cam, not flat tappet cam) and piece of power equipment I own. At $22.50 for a 5 gallon container of Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro Formula at Walmart there isn't a chance I would use any conventional oil in place of a synthetic, not at that price. I change the oil every 5000 miles on my DD's and 2 cars with 205,000 miles and the other with 150,000 miles uses 0 oil between the 5,000 miles oil change intervals..ZERO!
Also have a Kohler engined lawn tractor with thousands of hours on the motor, 1988 toro snow blower, and 1996 Generac generator that uses Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro Formula and not one uses an oz of oil during operation.
Everyone of the above^^^^^^^^^^^ does NOT specify a synthetic oil with a weight of 0W-40, not one...makes you wonder............about all the angst often written about the "proper" weight of oil to use. All the power equipment specifies straight 30 conventional weight oil and the car manufacturers all specify 5/10W-30 conventional oil....I abandoned that oil weight years ago and went synthetic across the board. I also went with the 0W-40 weight for an extremely thin oil at startup and slightly thicker oil when hot...so far all good 20 years later and counting.....
Last edited by jb78L-82; Sep 21, 2017 at 07:52 PM.
Instead of dozens of people claiming theirs is the best, how about going to YouTube. Do a search of Oil Filter Comparisions. Pretty scary stuff about whats on the inside of some of the cheap units and how much filtering media is in each brand. If you chose the correct video you will see 4-6 brands cut open showing the internals. (or lack of)
The best video is non-bias and lays everything out in front of the camera.
Long-time K&N user. If they can keep my racing motorcycle engine running at a near constant 16,000-18,000 RPM, I trust they will keep my SBC alive.
They routinely score very high in all the oil filter tests and the only thing that brings their overall rating down is the price (they are expensive). To me, the $5 difference in an oil filter between cheap and K&N is still cheap insurance.
Last edited by PainfullySlow; Nov 2, 2017 at 07:27 AM.
Long-time K&N user. If they can keep my racing motorcycle engine running at a near constant 16,000-18,000 RPM, I trust they will keep my SBC alive.
They routinely score very high in all the oil filter tests and the only thing that brings their overall rating down is the price (they are expensive). To me, the $5 difference in an oil filter between cheap and K&N is still cheap insurance.
I believe the Mobil 1 filters and K&N filters are both made by the same manufacturer. Search youtube videos of folks who cut both open and they are exactly the same......
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