Another vote for the EFI Connection cam sync. I'm running a big block and sequential ignition using the EFI connection cam sync and a Holley 60-2 crank trigger.





I went with LS style coils. Instead of the D585 I went with the . They use the same harness as the D585.

 

Here you go- check these guys out at DIYAutune- they are local to me -plus they know what they are doing!!!!

Even wrote a book about it...

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...tems-hp-books/

Here's Hall sensor for less than $50

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...sition-sensor/

The 60-2 configuration is what BMW has been using since 1987-it's funny how GM calls them 58 ....

Here's a guy that makes them-

http://www.millersmule.com/MillersMu...ger-wheel.html

Here's one on a SBC-




As far as the coil pack- I really don't think you will have a problem w/ the GM ones- there are lots of guys that are using them w/ 6-700+ HP....


I bought a spool of Taylor wire and ends- from Summit- I had to do a dozen coils and I think I was all in for around $100. DON'T try it w/o a crimper though!!!

Here's a neat way to do it- just get a hold of a Big Block valve cover and put over the coils- A BB cover will easily cover 6 coils!!!!





here's a more expensive way...two piece covers

 

Hmm... One more thing to consider... I was considering going with one of the hybrid Serpentine + Vbelt pulley sets so that I could keep my AC V belt pulley but switch everything else over to aluminum serpentine and this is but one more complication....


Adam

 

I like how compact the D581s are! I can get a 2002 set of 8 D585s right now with the stock bracket, wires, and stock harness extension for $150, so I think I'm going to go with those. -I'm a little afraid that I don't fully understand the difference between these and the newer LS coils, but I pretty much always feel that I don't have enough information to make a decision. It's a curse of my Myers-Briggs ENTP personality type.


Adam

 

What the heck?!? Just lay them over the coils not actually attached to anything? Is that picture a joke or for real?

-I've officially decided to just mount them to the fenders; I'm pretty happy with that decision.

Adam

 

Yep- that's a real picture- not photoshopped...

Just tossing out some ideas- of course you would have to make brackets- but a very inexpensive option to hide the coils and make it look like a big block...
That picture I took a while back to show the difference between a big block and a V12 as far as size.

Since you are doing a remote mount- spend $10 at Lowes/HomeDepot and get a wire marker booklet- will save you from a lot of frustration.

 

You can get a new GM 58X reluctor ring for <$25. The trick is mounting it to the engine.

What does Holley use for the cam sensor?

GM uses 1X with the 24X reluctor. The 1X signal basically covers every other engine rotation because the 24X wheel is an odd pattern that lets the computer knows where the cylinders are all the time so the 1X is just required so the computer can tell if the cylinders are on the compression stroke or not.

GM uses an odd 4X pattern with the 58X reluctor. The 4X odd pattern lets the computer know the cylinder location before having to crank the engine up to a full rotation to find the missing teeth on the 58X wheel.

The Vortec distributor is a 1X cam signal and wouldn't work where a 4X cam signal is required.

As for the coils - don't be afraid of any of the LS coils. They'll all work for you. Even the "bad" ones are being used on 500-600hp engines.

 

Well thanks to the bad influence of all of you on this forum, I just purchased a set of
GM#12573190 ACDelco D514A coils... ($159 taken off a truck motor).

So I guess this is real now..

Now to find a 58x / 60-2 wheel to run next to the balancer...



Adam

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I realize I was a bad CF member and never posted back my solution here.

I ended up going with the Holly 8 1/2" crank trigger wheel which has the proper bolt hole pattern for SBC/ BBC. It was a kit when I bought it and on super sale as they were getting rid of them. (Now discontinued as they're pushing the more expensive, yet simplier but less accurate dual sync distributors instead. Came with a hall effect sensor and mounting bracket. Works wonderfully to mount the pointer on the timing cover screws shown in the picture and the bracket in the two holes showing in the block in my photo below.. https://www.holley.com/products/igni.../parts/556-109

Probably obvious to everyone else, but I couldn't figure out how to get the wheel perfect centered for the longest time (because I was trying to do it without the pulley...- DUH, the lip on the crank pulley is what centers it.
With the hole pattern you only have three possible positions to mount the trigger wheel in and per Holley the gap from the missing teeth needs to occur several teeth before the sensor and a maximum of 11 or 13 before, so there's really only one position you can properly mount it in and you will need to rotate the engine to TDC on cylinder #1 before installing it. In the holley crank trigger config you just tell the EFI software how many teeth after TDC the gap is. The kit came with shims to space out the sensor to the recommended distance from the wheel, I want to say 0.016"-0.030" range, but it's been a while since I did the install.

I obviously mounted it after the balancer and before the pulley, which means I need to space out all my accessories by 1/8" -my water pump pulley came with a spacer, other accessories get a washer.




Here's a pic before I installed and properly spaced the sensor and bracket:

While I was focusing on maximum crank and cam position accuracy and while I was planning to replace the oil pump anyway, I replaced the oil pump with a Melling "SharkTooth" standard volume, standard pressure (although it's technically +10% on both vs. a regular toothed pump) pump and a solid shaft without the plastic bits in them. This is supposed to reduce irregular pulsations through the shaft that slightly decrease timing accuracy, or in my case cam sync sensor accuracy. I also smoothed out / "ported" the oil entry to the rear main cap for a bit of increased flow per the recommendation in David Vizard's "Max HP SBCs" book, just for grins and giggles.

Engines been done a good long while, I only made videos of the finished engine and need to take some still pictures of the finished product.

Adam