sunflower 1972

Well, we have a somewhat minor issue. With NO alignment shims between the control arm shafts and the frame we have -1* camber on the left front and -1.5* on the right front. That's not a bad thing if you're going to autocross your C3. Not so good for street. The only remedy that I can come up with is to have the frame mounting areas of the shafts machined a little narrower to get them to 0* or a little + camber. Caster is great. Left side is +5* and right side is +4.5*, so I'm happy about that. If anyone has a better solution to the camber issue, please chime in.

Sky65

Maybe a spreader bar will push both sides out. It will tighten up the frame and front end for sure. Do you have access to a Porta Power?


Tom

sunflower 1972

If you look closely at the photo, you'll see the mounting bracket for the spreader bar I have. A spreader bar is not going to move the frame at all. I suppose a Porta Power is an option. How would one go about using it? Push between the control arm frame mounting ears or the frame?

bmans vette

Good info and pics.
What amount would need to be removed from the cross-shaft to compensate?
Might be a question of either milling it or finding a replacement that is thicker or offset.
Thanks.

bmans vette

Just ordered a pair.
Like I said, I have the Van Steels complete setup for one project.
When all the Jeg's pieces show up, I will do detailed measurements and pics and post for your guys.
Look for maybe another thread on it and a link here.
Would be nice to beat the "Corvette only" price adjustment for a change......LOL

Bman (Dennis)

carriljc

Thanks for feed back Bman. I was just comparing the jegs images to some specific C3 corvette tubular control arms.

I copied and pasted images on my computer and it seems to me that the sway-bar mounts may be on the opposite side(?). It would be easy enough cut and reweld on the front side; especially at those prices though.
Wow...if it works, then we could have upper and lower tubular control arms with bushings for under 200 bucks with this sale(???).
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/64570/10002/-1
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/64572/10002/-1



Quote:
Originally Posted by carriljc
These lower control arms are on sale also. Will these fit the C3 corvette?

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/64572/10002/-1
Just ordered a pair.
Like I said, I have the Van Steels complete setup for one project.
When all the Jeg's pieces show up, I will do detailed measurements and pics and post for your guys.
Look for maybe another thread on it and a link here.
Would be nice to beat the "Corvette only" price adjustment for a change......LOL

Bman (Dennis)

carriljc

Someone proficient in alignment might be able to inform us "about" what size of shim is required to do 1° to 1.5° of camber? For these prices I'd be will to grind on them, eh? Worse came to worse, then you just shim a bit.

bmans vette

Exactly.
Good comments.
I'll keep you all up to date once I get pieces.
Still recovering from cardiac bypass surgery last week so may take a few days. Got out of hospital on Monday the 13th.
Comparing parts first hand not as easy as playing keyboard commando.....

Take care guys.

naramlee

remember they need to be swapped when flipping the a-arms, that puts the swap bar brackets backwards on vettes vs the impala, that was the only mild mod'ing I saw that needed to be done to the lowers, the tops we knew needed to be elongated on one hole due to being 3/16 - 1/4 inch narrower on our uppers

looking through the shop manual: ""a 1/16" shim on both bolts will change camber about 1/3*. A difference between bolts of 1/32" is good for about 1/2* caster.

honestly the easiest way would be take an aggressive grinder wheel to the inboard side till it is the same depth as the center, you can always shim it like carril said -shrug-

bmans vette

Thanks.
What I will do is create a detailed account as I do it with pics.
Next weekend neighbor coming over to help reinforce frame before sending off for sandblasting and powder-coating.
Now would be best time to set up any modifications to frame and suspension.

sunflower 1972

I had a 1/8" shim in the arms when I initially checked the camber. When I removed them and checked the camber, I lost approximately .5* of camber. So, I'm thinking at least 3/16", maybe a 1/4".

naramlee

This is the segment to grind flat to match the center "dip" looks roughly 1/4" ?

I hate playing chair jockey... but since my parts have not showed up yet... I must live through the excitement and pictures of others


also, MOOG has 1.5* offset shafts, but im not sure if the shafts will work with these aftermarket pockets, depends totally on ID/ODs

naramlee

hey Carril, sorry I ment to respond and somehow forgot... as long as they fit the 58-64 impala, then they should fit the C3 with these minor mods of the upper control arm work and re-welding the tabs for the sway bar

I would jump on the JEGS deal... go figure I paid 70.00 more than that for the ones I ordered... -.-'

Sky65

I see the spreader bar bracket now that you mention it. The bar itself is not there. The bar I have on my car is pretty strong. I have increased the tension it while on the alignment rack before and it will change camber. What may happen though is one side may move more than the other depending on frame condition. Remember you are pushing the upper part of the frame apart. Not the rails. I don't know what the design dimension is on the upper control arm frame mount. It may be worth measuring the distance between your mounts and make sure yours has not collapsed a little over time.

I also like the Moog offset control arm shaft idea someone suggested.

Tom

bmans vette

Good info on the MOOG offset pieces.
When I contacted the performance people and another company online about the inward size of the tubing where the del-a-lum bushings fit....they said they are stock size.
So if the MOOG offsets are stock size in regards to bushing diameter, then they should fit into these a-arms.
Research continues.....

Somehow, I feel that the only real test will be with parts in hand and a set of calipers.

carriljc

This detail, about lowering the vehicle, on the upper control arms webpage kinda-sorta worries me: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/64570/10002/-1
"Each kit contains a complete set of either upper or lower tubular front control arms. Dimensions are stock width and are compatible with either stock springs or a retrofit coil- over shock. Also compatible with either stock height or drop type spindles. Features precision formed DOM steel tubular construction, durable black powder coat finish, lighter than stock weight, Delrin® bushings, heavy duty ball joints and silver powder coated heavy duty cross shafts. May lower vehicle 1-1/2" to 2". Bolt-in installation."

I would hate to create a new issue to address..... my tires are already tight in the wheelwell.
Hate to miss out on the sale.....

Primoz

That lowering might come if you mount drop type spindle.

Primoz

Can you measure the thickness of original shaft compared to this one? If I'm not mistaken this one is thicker than original and that is causing the negative camber issue. If you use the shims the negative camber will be even bigger. If you know someone who can mill off a couple of thousands of an inch and be precise with it than that would be perfect!
If you look ath the vansteel ones you can see that the shaft looks somewhat smaller thickness than the one on our arms.
Check image 27 in this nice walkthrough!
https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...ssis-assembly/

naramlee

these arms are easily double the stock cross-shafts
hence the reason I said mill off 1/4"... then you can go back with shims if it ends up being around 1.6* like what im figuring it'll be

Primoz

That is why the shims were there in the first place!
My guess is that the original shafts are the thickness of the center part of the new shafts.
I can't measure mine to verify!