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So its time to address this issue. My car drove down the road nice and straight until I lowered the suspension with lower front springs. I took it in for a complete alignment and was told by the tech that was the best he could do with the issue. So I have been dealing with it for a few years. Now that I have new rear trailing arms and adjustable rear struts I did my own rear wheel alignment and it seemed to help the front a little. But I would still like to fix this problem. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks
Do you happen to know what the specs are on the front? Here are a few things I would try:
- Swap front tires, see if it pulls the other way.
- Get the front alignment specs measured, understand what is causing the pull, my guess would be camber.
- Tubular A-arms have much more adjustability than the stamped ones, maybe time for an upgrade?
- Buy some drop spindles and restore the suspension geometry while keeping your stance.
Not that this is your issue, but is your power steering balanced? In my case after full alignment and replaced components, I had a pull to the right. After some advice, I checked the bias and my PS was turning wheels to the right with the car running. Adjusted, and now the car is straight and well planted, all from an adjustment on the PS valve. Before that, I assumed I still had an alignment problem. Prior to the adjustment, I had to hold the wheel (not a lot of force, but some) and could not let go on the road or the car would dart right.
Last edited by JoeMinnesota; Oct 30, 2017 at 02:42 PM.
Here are the notes from my fix back in early October: Haggisbash... THANK YOU very much for this sound advice. I jacked up the front, revved the motor a bit, and my steering wheel magically turned to the right. Pulled the front left wheel, got the end cap off the steering valve with a screwdriver. Used a 7/16" (1/4" drive to fit between the lines) socket with extension, re-centered and marked the top of the steering wheel with painters tape so I could see it turn, started the car and let idle, and adjusted the bias. I turned it both directions until I found the two points where the pump would turn the wheels one way or the other (about 5/8 of a turn apart) and turned it back just over a 1/4 turn to the "middle". I never knew about this adjustment - learned something new.
IT IS LIKE A DIFFERENT CAR! Tracks straight down the road and when I turn it no longer "dives" or darts one way or the other. The steering is heavier and the front wheels feel well planted. I absolutely cannot believe how nice it is to drive.
Thanks again. a guy can really find some answers here. And, the best part is not another rebuild or a frame-off to fix the steering!
I forgot to mention that at the time I lowered it I also replaced the control arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar bushings, and one tie rod end.
I know you obviously have checked your alignment, but even a small amount of toe-in toe-out error on the rear will make the car try to steer itself. My right side trailing arm front pivot point has the bolt, nut and original equipment shims rusted fast so I can not correct the toe-out condition on the right rear wheel. I was able to get the left side aligned properly, but the right side toe out constantly makes the car want to turn left. Just the opposite of your problem. My winter project is to cut the bolt and shims out so I can properly align the right rear wheel so it does not steer the car like a hook and ladder fire truck. I would check rear wheel alignment off the list of things that might be causing your problem.
So its time to address this issue. My car drove down the road nice and straight until I lowered the suspension with lower front springs. I took it in for a complete alignment and was told by the tech that was the best he could do with the issue. So I have been dealing with it for a few years. Now that I have new rear trailing arms and adjustable rear struts I did my own rear wheel alignment and it seemed to help the front a little. But I would still like to fix this problem. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks
If you did your own rear wheel alignment, what is the front alignment set to ? What tools / method are you using to measure alignment ?
If you did your own rear wheel alignment, what is the front alignment set to ? What tools / method are you using to measure alignment ?
I don't know what the front is set too. I took it in to a goodyear service shop and had the alignment done. The tech said he shimmed it as much as he could. It looked like he shimmed the top control arm.
When I replaced my rear trailing arms I replaced the rear shims the same way they were when they were removed.I ran a string down the body and it came out accurate. I then adjusted the strut rods and used a level to get 0 degree. I then drove the car a few different times and check it all again.
But I do believe the pulling issue is being caused by the front with me lowering the ride height.
Here are the notes from my fix back in early October: Haggisbash... THANK YOU very much for this sound advice. I jacked up the front, revved the motor a bit, and my steering wheel magically turned to the right. Pulled the front left wheel, got the end cap off the steering valve with a screwdriver. Used a 7/16" (1/4" drive to fit between the lines) socket with extension, re-centered and marked the top of the steering wheel with painters tape so I could see it turn, started the car and let idle, and adjusted the bias. I turned it both directions until I found the two points where the pump would turn the wheels one way or the other (about 5/8 of a turn apart) and turned it back just over a 1/4 turn to the "middle". I never knew about this adjustment - learned something new.
IT IS LIKE A DIFFERENT CAR! Tracks straight down the road and when I turn it no longer "dives" or darts one way or the other. The steering is heavier and the front wheels feel well planted. I absolutely cannot believe how nice it is to drive.
Thanks again. a guy can really find some answers here. And, the best part is not another rebuild or a frame-off to fix the steering!
I need to try this as I have the same problem. My car pulls to the right even though I have had it aligned.
But I do believe the pulling issue is being caused by the front with me lowering the ride height.
Without knowing accurately the front alignment, and without tools to measure accurately it will be difficult to confirm or deny the alignment, but as someone else posted check the power steering valve for balance.
For for alignment we would need to check,
1. trust angle
2. toe-in
3. camber
4. caster
and make sure left side vs right side is balanced. They can be out of spec, but if left vs right is balanced it will still run straight, just the tire life will suffer.
But this may also be a good time to learn DIY Alignment techniques to save time and money going to alignment shops that usually don't do all the correct adjustments.
Here are the notes from my fix back in early October: Haggisbash... THANK YOU very much for this sound advice. I jacked up the front, revved the motor a bit, and my steering wheel magically turned to the right. Pulled the front left wheel, got the end cap off the steering valve with a screwdriver. Used a 7/16" (1/4" drive to fit between the lines) socket with extension, re-centered and marked the top of the steering wheel with painters tape so I could see it turn, started the car and let idle, and adjusted the bias. I turned it both directions until I found the two points where the pump would turn the wheels one way or the other (about 5/8 of a turn apart) and turned it back just over a 1/4 turn to the "middle". I never knew about this adjustment - learned something new.
IT IS LIKE A DIFFERENT CAR! Tracks straight down the road and when I turn it no longer "dives" or darts one way or the other. The steering is heavier and the front wheels feel well planted. I absolutely cannot believe how nice it is to drive.
Thanks again. a guy can really find some answers here. And, the best part is not another rebuild or a frame-off to fix the steering!