GTR1999

I have seen some recent questions on rotor runout so I went deep into the archives and see my old thread is still here. I am still a member of Photobucket so the pictures are still active- for now. This is from 11 years ago but still applies today. I did not really read through it so if anyone has a question let me know and I'll answer it for you. Bottom line is while I can certainly turn a chip, it's not always required and I never turn rotors so you CAN do it at home. You just need an indicator, shim stock, and patience. This one had 015 runout that I got down to 0015" bolted on so it wasn't going to change.

Good luck

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-bearings.html

Reaper19

Great write up. Thanks!

GTR1999

You're welcome. I have a lot of old threads on tech rebuilding still active with pictures. If you search my handle you can find them or let me know and I usually have files on many rebuilds to help out. If I lose PB I don't know if I will sit down and rewrite them all, I must have 1000 pictures on there now.

jimvette999

Am I missing something? I didn't see the size/shape of the shim stock you cut or where it was placed in that older thread of yours.
Thanks,
Jim

GTR1999

Jim, I don't recall what I have left here from many years ago. I still have PB 3rd party posting so the pictures are still there. For shims they don't have to be pretty at all, I have a complete shim stock set with punches. I simply find the low point and shim from the stud closest to it, bolt it up and recheck. Sometimes I might have to shim 2 stud locations but I like this better then the full tapered shims sold. I can dial in rotors very close with this method, I have reached 001" many times and -0- a few. I personally don't like anything over 003" others may disagree and frankly I am getting too old to really care anymore.
The shim stock kits can be bought from any industrial online supplier and most likely eBay. I have been using the same kit for over 10 years now.

If you have any questions reach out to me anytime.

Big2Bird

Why not the tapered shims Gary?
I kinda liked using those. Got real close to 001. Forget how close.

GTR1999

Hi Jeff,
If the taper shims work no problem. I like to address the low spot and can usually do that with a cut shim vs going 180* on the flange. I think those were $$ at parts stores too?

Sayfoo

The tapered shims worked real well for me. Plus, I like the idea of getting full, equal contact 360 deg.

edk136

I did my rotor run-out just like Gary.... a couple Diet Mountain Dew cans made enough shims to do the car.

The only way you can ensure complete rotor to hub contact is if you surface grind the inside of the rotor, the hub face, along with the tapered shim.

GTR1999

Whatever works is great. Many guys have told me they used shims from cans or local hardware stores. We used to use paper for shim stock rebuilding Bridgeport heads to remove spindle chop. I like the shim stock since it comes in many sizes I can dial in rotors and lock them in.

bobs77vet

Gary as always good to hear from you.....i dont spend much time in the C3 sections these days mostly C5, but its good to visit and see names i recognize, bob

GTR1999

Hi Bob,
It's literally been years, hope all is well. No more 77?