thinking about putting a Holley sniper EFI on my 74 BB
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
thinking about putting a Holley sniper EFI on my 74 BB
Anyone switched from the carb to the sniper with the stock intake? Seems like with the gas tank now available it should be a fairly straightforward swap.. Any comments welcome
#2
Race Director
there is a whole forum devoted to the holley sniper. they would probably have a few thoughts...
The following users liked this post:
mfgaffney (11-09-2017)
#4
Pro
I installed a Sniper on my street rod. I would highly recommend the unit. Lots of tech advice and only took me a bit of work to get it working like a champ. The only problem I have it that it is very sensitive to small throttle openings and likes to "jump off the line" if I am not careful.
#5
Racer
I installed a Sniper on my street rod. I would highly recommend the unit. Lots of tech advice and only took me a bit of work to get it working like a champ. The only problem I have it that it is very sensitive to small throttle openings and likes to "jump off the line" if I am not careful.
#6
Race Director
I installed a Sniper on my street rod. I would highly recommend the unit. Lots of tech advice and only took me a bit of work to get it working like a champ. The only problem I have it that it is very sensitive to small throttle openings and likes to "jump off the line" if I am not careful.
#7
Pro
It is on a 700R4 auto with a 1800 rpm converter, pretty vanilla setup.
The reason it is sensitive is that unlike a typical 4 barrel carb that opens the primaries first then the secondaries, the Sniper opens all 4 at the same time, this coupled with the fact that it's an 800 CFM throttle body gives you a lot of air for a little pedal movement. No issues with the return spring I just have a shorter throw pedal and it is touchy.
Hope this helps.
I installed a new tank, in tank walbro pump, all new lines (braided teflon) and the appropriate filters and it works great for about $1800 total (including the sniper).
The reason it is sensitive is that unlike a typical 4 barrel carb that opens the primaries first then the secondaries, the Sniper opens all 4 at the same time, this coupled with the fact that it's an 800 CFM throttle body gives you a lot of air for a little pedal movement. No issues with the return spring I just have a shorter throw pedal and it is touchy.
Hope this helps.
I installed a new tank, in tank walbro pump, all new lines (braided teflon) and the appropriate filters and it works great for about $1800 total (including the sniper).
The following users liked this post:
Bangkok Dean (11-19-2017)
#8
It is on a 700R4 auto with a 1800 rpm converter, pretty vanilla setup.
The reason it is sensitive is that unlike a typical 4 barrel carb that opens the primaries first then the secondaries, the Sniper opens all 4 at the same time, this coupled with the fact that it's an 800 CFM throttle body gives you a lot of air for a little pedal movement. No issues with the return spring I just have a shorter throw pedal and it is touchy.
Hope this helps.
I installed a new tank, in tank walbro pump, all new lines (braided teflon) and the appropriate filters and it works great for about $1800 total (including the sniper).
The reason it is sensitive is that unlike a typical 4 barrel carb that opens the primaries first then the secondaries, the Sniper opens all 4 at the same time, this coupled with the fact that it's an 800 CFM throttle body gives you a lot of air for a little pedal movement. No issues with the return spring I just have a shorter throw pedal and it is touchy.
Hope this helps.
I installed a new tank, in tank walbro pump, all new lines (braided teflon) and the appropriate filters and it works great for about $1800 total (including the sniper).
#9
Melting Slicks
Since you posted, they have come out with a "Progressive" setup. Have you considered that? I am curious if it resolves what appear to be your only issues with the Sniper.
It is on a 700R4 auto with a 1800 rpm converter, pretty vanilla setup.
The reason it is sensitive is that unlike a typical 4 barrel carb that opens the primaries first then the secondaries, the Sniper opens all 4 at the same time, this coupled with the fact that it's an 800 CFM throttle body gives you a lot of air for a little pedal movement. No issues with the return spring I just have a shorter throw pedal and it is touchy.
Hope this helps.
I installed a new tank, in tank walbro pump, all new lines (braided teflon) and the appropriate filters and it works great for about $1800 total (including the sniper).
The reason it is sensitive is that unlike a typical 4 barrel carb that opens the primaries first then the secondaries, the Sniper opens all 4 at the same time, this coupled with the fact that it's an 800 CFM throttle body gives you a lot of air for a little pedal movement. No issues with the return spring I just have a shorter throw pedal and it is touchy.
Hope this helps.
I installed a new tank, in tank walbro pump, all new lines (braided teflon) and the appropriate filters and it works great for about $1800 total (including the sniper).
#10
Burning Brakes
I installed the Sniper, Hyperspark ignition and Holley fuel tank in my 68. I have a 496 built by BluePrint. Performer manifold on it. Because my cam is pretty beefy, to finally get it to run perfectly I had to take it to a pro to get it dyno tuned. It now runs like a bat out of hell, throttle response is unreal, starts are super easy and I won't have to worry about vapor lock in the summer. It also looks like I picked up ~25 or so horses to just under 600hp.
What Silver says is correct that if you're not careful it will come on like a hammer off the line until either you 1) adjust how you get into it with your foot, or 2) remap that with the software to make it a smoother transition. As I drove mine I either got better with it or it learned that I didn't want it to come on that hard and it adjusted.
Here is a post I did after converting mine. Read it before you start and hopefully it is helpful. What I learned
And my overall build thread to date which has a dyno test at the end after getting the Sniper on there: Build Thread
Overall I am now very happy with it.
Oh one more thing. Mine used to surge at low RPM. Especially when coasting down the big hill by my house, letting the engine RPM slow me down. That is all gone now. Low RPM cruise is super smooth.
What Silver says is correct that if you're not careful it will come on like a hammer off the line until either you 1) adjust how you get into it with your foot, or 2) remap that with the software to make it a smoother transition. As I drove mine I either got better with it or it learned that I didn't want it to come on that hard and it adjusted.
Here is a post I did after converting mine. Read it before you start and hopefully it is helpful. What I learned
And my overall build thread to date which has a dyno test at the end after getting the Sniper on there: Build Thread
Overall I am now very happy with it.
Oh one more thing. Mine used to surge at low RPM. Especially when coasting down the big hill by my house, letting the engine RPM slow me down. That is all gone now. Low RPM cruise is super smooth.
Last edited by scottjamison; 01-04-2019 at 03:21 PM.