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I decided why ***k with just the module. I went back to O'Reillys today and returned the ignition module. Instead I got a brand new Accel Distributor. That should take all the electrical elements out of the equation. Replacement was a breeze. Here's the adjustments I made:
Static timing @ 500 RPM (no vacuum connected): 12BTDC (after adjusting carburetor with full vacuum to distributor @ 675 RPM)
Initial timing @ 675 RPM (full intake vacuum to distributor): 22BTDC - after adjusting carburetor idle speed and mixture)
Vacuum @ 675 RPM: 14 in HG
All timing in @ high rpm: 36BTDC
Now some test driving with my AAA card in my wallet in case I need a tow.
Let me know if the numbers above are reasonable.
Next step is heat dissipating gaskets for the carburetor. I have one on order and should be here tomorrow.
After that I should probably find another more satisfying hobby to waste my time and money......
Hell no it did not work. With temperatures up to high 80s today, it died on the first top light from the house!! I was able to restart it and feather it away from the intersection - smells more like a heat related problem - it seems to have a problem when it goes from high rpm down to idle then poof - dead.
I'll try the heat dissipating gasket tomorrow and see what happens.
If you are putting a insulator spacer under the carb, make sure you have hood clearance.
The unit from Edelbrock is over a quarter inch thick. Not a problem with a dropbase.
Put a big glob of Playdough on the wingnut and slowly close the hood.
Also, where is the fuel line from the pump to carb? Right next to the hot cyl head that GM insist is best? I go forward and around, see avatar<.
did you check for fuel in the carb like i suggested?
No. When it stops it is in traffic with folks waiting on me to get my *** going. I've been lucky so far since it always starts. When it does stop in a place where I can safely pull over, I shall check.
If you are putting a insulator spacer under the carb, make sure you have hood clearance.
The unit from Edelbrock is over a quarter inch thick. Not a problem with a dropbase.
Put a big glob of Playdough on the wingnut and slowly close the hood.
Also, where is the fuel line from the pump to carb? Right next to the hot cyl head that GM insist is best? I go forward and around, see avatar<.
Below is my picture from my setup:
- From the frame rail via rubber line to the filter
- From filter to the fuel pressure regulator
- From the fuel pressure regulator to the carburetor - yes, that metal U-shaped line line does get hot. May be I should insulate it....
Whoa dude, you got more plumbing issues than a 1930s farmhouse.
The more fuel lines the more chance to pick up heat. The more heat, the more vapor lock. Look at all that rubber and clamps and joints. Scarryyyyyy. Not my car, but why the fuel regulator? Aftermarket fuelpump?
And that spacer is excellent and is just over a 1/4" thick. I would still put a FelPro gasket on both sides of that anyway.
I did a small adjustment to the carburetor and took it for another spin in my normal 4 mile - right turn *ONLY* - loop with a multitude of stop signs and stop lights:
I increased the idle from 650 to 850RPM and adjusted the idle mixture screws for lean best - the original adjustment may have been a bit on the rich side.
The car did survive the test not stopping once. Not saying I am out of the woods yet but it did make a difference.
Good.
Also you can purchase a metal shield ($26) that will slip under that rubber carb spacer. It deflects heat away from the carb fuel bowls. Might be a Edelbrock product also.
I did a small adjustment to the carburetor and took it for another spin in my normal 4 mile - right turn *ONLY* - loop with a multitude of stop signs and stop lights:
I increased the idle from 650 to 850RPM and adjusted the idle mixture screws for lean best - the original adjustment may have been a bit on the rich side.
The car did survive the test not stopping once. Not saying I am out of the woods yet but it did make a difference.
Okay. So now we know it's fuel. A picture earlier would have helped, because that u shaped fuel line after the regulator right above the header is the issue. When you get off the freeway, while the header is cooling down, it is boiling that fuel. On the freeway, the air flow is keeping the heat off, but when you slow down, the fuel bubbles.
When you finish the drive, it has cooled off.
It could still be something else, but that sure jumps out at me.
You have a stock pump. Although rubber fuel lines after the pump is dangerous, please try this. You don't need the regulator. Install a hose barb on the carb, and plumb it with hose directly from that fuel filer into the carb. I bet the issue goes away.
You have a stock pump. Although rubber fuel lines after the pump is dangerous, please try this. You don't need the regulator. Install a hose barb on the carb, and plumb it with hose directly from that fuel filer into the carb. I bet the issue goes away.
Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking after taking the pictures and touching the line right after my drive and thinking WTF. The regulator was put there to chase another problem that I have which is stumble at WOT and wanted to make sure I had enough fuel pressure to begin with. I shall make that change and report back.
I did a small adjustment to the carburetor and took it for another spin in my normal 4 mile - right turn *ONLY* - loop with a multitude of stop signs and stop lights:
I increased the idle from 650 to 850RPM and adjusted the idle mixture screws for lean best - the original adjustment may have been a bit on the rich side.
The car did survive the test not stopping once. Not saying I am out of the woods yet but it did make a difference.
i also asked about turns.
my initial thought was blockage some where, maybe tank when
turning.
i also asked about turns.
my initial thought was blockage some where, maybe tank when
turning.
I had emptied and removed the tank from the body - I may have failed to mention it. It was pristine with the liner intact - I did use rags and cleaned all the sediment out really well. Like I said in a prior post, I did replace the sending unit along with the sock and all rubber lines and did blow air from the tank side to the fuel pump side when I was replacing the fuel pump and everything checked out ok. In terms of turns, turns did not affect it but at the same time I wasn't taking any sharp turns either....
As Big2Bird suggested and HeadsU.P poignantly pointed out, I re-did the fuel plumbing and got rid of the fuel pressure regulator. My 4 mile loop was successful. Heading in the right direction.
good info
guess would be float level or worn to point of
sticking.
pressure maybe
without knowing what is happening when it fails,
just wild *** guessing.
if it did that to me,
check for excess fuel smell, float dribbling in carb
check for gas a squirters, pump or blockage
check for spark, coil, pickup, module
then the how i get it started, flooded=full throttle
time=ignition component cool down
good luck
raising idle masks the issue.
sounds more and more like excess fuel
bleeding by float.
hot fuel, will expand and thin.
pressure built from high rpms needs and out.
if you don't have lines right, pressure
03-10-2018, 03:32 PM
