Engine Upgrade
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 216
Likes: 10
From: MD
2.If they are close what do you think If I start with mine, and what's your suggestions for a driver?
thanks
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 216
Likes: 10
From: MD
My Vortec build required a blow through carb. At the time from CSU it ran a G-note. A new fuel delivery system is required. High volume pump at low pressure, a pressure regulator that increases pressure as boost increases and an ignition system that retards timing as boost goes up. Your engine should have a cam designed for a boosted engine. And then when you get every thing sorted out with the engine running right, the hood wont close. A blower engine needs a good solid foundation, engine, machine work, and heads $4000 t0 $6000, upgrade to super charger $6000 to $8000. I have only found 5 C3s that have centrifical chargers on them. Sure you'll be able to snap the tires loose at 40 mph in 2nd, but those stock drive line parts will be laying on the ground so lets beef up the IRS to handle that, lets say $5 to $6 grand. My advice is to stick with a carbed engine around 450 to 500 hp max and have fun. T
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,398
From: SW Florida.
that engine would be for someone who has a tired engine in the first place. your new? 290 hp is already paid for. you said you want to use it 3 days a week. to drive to work? car meets? or going to 3 different tracks and trying to break things 3 days a week?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,213
Likes: 992
From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY
Rather than buying a new crate which may or may not have good machine work on it, I would keep your block and strike up a good relationship with a local machine shop. Always nice dealing locally in case you have a problem. Have your block prepped correctly. Maybe buy a stronger rotating assembly. Buy a bare set of heads and have them machined and setup by them. I have read of some real nightmares with crate engines. My engine builder has had a few and I feel good quality machining is the best basis for a reliable engine, especially when you start throwing more power around. Just my two cents.
Bill
Bill
Last edited by 69ttop502; Dec 20, 2017 at 06:48 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,398
From: SW Florida.
as ttop said. in all cases except maybe Brodix or AFR, BARE HEADS!! chinese cyl head castings are getting decent. you do NOT want chinese exhaust valves, springs, retainers etc. and the bulk cyl head builders are buying in bulk... but i do like the thought of a short block assembled by GM.
Last edited by derekderek; Dec 20, 2017 at 05:27 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 37
From: Stockton Ca
Experience!
Ariba: You seem like someone that wants to learn enough to make good choices. You came to the right place. The good news is all your questions can be answered. The bad news is we don't know what is best for you!
Take some time and do a search. There is nothing new about a SBC.
Just remember speed costs, how fast can you afford to go?
Also once you have more than stock power, you will be spending money on chassis and drivetrain.
Some of our members have spent stupid money trying to go faster.
Do some research and ask good questions.
Do not be surprised if everyone does not agree on what is best.
Welcome to the forum.
Take some time and do a search. There is nothing new about a SBC.
Just remember speed costs, how fast can you afford to go?
Also once you have more than stock power, you will be spending money on chassis and drivetrain.
Some of our members have spent stupid money trying to go faster.
Do some research and ask good questions.
Do not be surprised if everyone does not agree on what is best.
Welcome to the forum.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 216
Likes: 10
From: MD
Rather than buying a new crate which may or may not have good machine work on it, I would keep your block and strike up a good relationship with a local machine shop. Always nice dealing locally in case you have a problem. Have your block prepped correctly. Maybe buy a stronger rotating assembly. Buy a bare set of heads and have them machined and setup by them. I have read of some real nightmares with crate engines. My engine builder has had a few and I feel good quality machining is the best basis for a reliable engine, especially when you start throwing more power around. Just my two cents.
Bill
Bill
thanks
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 216
Likes: 10
From: MD
But not a track.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 216
Likes: 10
From: MD
Ariba: You seem like someone that wants to learn enough to make good choices. You came to the right place. The good news is all your questions can be answered. The bad news is we don't know what is best for you!
Take some time and do a search. There is nothing new about a SBC.
Just remember speed costs, how fast can you afford to go?
Also once you have more than stock power, you will be spending money on chassis and drivetrain.
Some of our members have spent stupid money trying to go faster.
Do some research and ask good questions.
Do not be surprised if everyone does not agree on what is best.
Welcome to the forum.
Take some time and do a search. There is nothing new about a SBC.
Just remember speed costs, how fast can you afford to go?
Also once you have more than stock power, you will be spending money on chassis and drivetrain.
Some of our members have spent stupid money trying to go faster.
Do some research and ask good questions.
Do not be surprised if everyone does not agree on what is best.
Welcome to the forum.
Yes I do want to learn enough on Upgrading H.P
I did a very bad mistake on the old mechanic that worked on my new engine and other bad body work. I went to a professional and paid another time to fix the other mechanic mistakes.
I paid 2 times. for the same work lost time and $$$$
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 121
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I started from Scratch. Wanted over 500 HP plus a 175 shot and drivetrain capable of handling it. D&D T56 Viper Chevy trans was $4000, Fidenza Flywheel, Centerforce 2 clutch was $800, Forged bottom end, lightweight components, ARP studded, Rev kit, Cam, Rockers, AFR Competition ported heads, machine work was over $7000, Induction over $2000, Headers and pipes $1800, Toms 12 bolt with supporting halfshafts, inner and outer axles and offset trailing arms was $8000, Suspension was $2500. Tires and Wheels was almost $2000, Incidentals were a couple grand. If you think your putting together a 500 HP+ forced induction car for 4-5000 your in for a rude awakening. $20,000 minimum to 30,000 to do it right. Best bet is go with 450 HP or less 383, upgrade to a TKO600 and pray your rear end holds together but your still at $10,000 or better.
Last edited by 63mako; Dec 21, 2017 at 12:22 AM.