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Underpowered Alternator? Please help.

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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 02:31 AM
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Default Underpowered Alternator? Please help.

So here's the dealio. Not a corvette, but I'm having some issues with my 1974 Chevy C10 pickup. It's got a 350ci that's been built up a little. Heavy heads and valve springs, big cam, edelbrock intake and 1406 carb, and HEI distributor...nothing too fancy. Last week I got stuck on the side of the road because my alternator took a dump. Before it died I could barely give it any gas without it sputtering and backfiring. I got a ride to the parts store, bought a cheap alternator, and put it in real fast, and I was able to go home. My lights work fine, but my speedometer and fuel gauge are off, and my radio and heater are very weak. I have decent pick up, but it still cuts out and backfires at high RPMs, and I can't get over about 60mph. The alternator has the correct amps, so could it just be too cheap to power my engine with what it needs? Any advice helps please, and thank you.

Last edited by CheyenneC10_74; Dec 29, 2017 at 02:36 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 07:38 AM
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It sounds like you were in a hurry to get back on the road, did they check the old alt to see if it was bad????

Last edited by lvmyvt76; Dec 29, 2017 at 07:39 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by lvmyvt76
It sounds like you were in a hurry to get back on the road, did they check the old alt to see if it was bad????
They never checked it. I didn't make it to the store, I had to ditch my truck and get a ride. I changed the alt on the side of the road, and it seemed to run alright until I noticed I couldn't go faster than 60mph.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 08:16 AM
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Have you attempted to recharge the battery? When an alternator goes bad the vehicle will still run until it has depelted the battery. Often just changing the alternator will not completely fix the issue because you need to recharge a dead battery. I would suggest putting the battery on a charger overnight and see what happens.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 10:36 AM
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your old one may of been good, just a quick check may have saved you big money and let you know it was good, and to check on other things under the hood to correct the problem.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 05:20 PM
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The stock replacement alternator will be fine if you didn't add any big aftermarket electrical loads. The new alternator should be fine if it's working. It must be working assuming you got a boost to get the truck going again.

The speedometer is cable driven so the electrical power wouldn't affect it.

Check the output voltage of the alternator with a meter with the truck idling and no electrical loads on. You should see >14V. Then, try it with the lights on and you should still be >13.5V, You are just guessing at the problem if you don't use a meter.


Originally Posted by NeverTooOld
The small wire in the two-terminal plug on the side of the alternator is notorious for breaking because it's a single strand wire of a very small gauge.
The wire is not a single strand no matter how many times you post it.


Originally Posted by NeverTooOld
Also your headlights should brighten when you rev your engine up from an idle. If they do brighten that would indicate your alternator is doing its job.
The lights should ALWAYS be bright if the alternator is working correctly and it has enough capacity. You are thinking of a generator or the old externally regulated alternators that could barely keep up at a higher rpm.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 05:28 PM
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I am confused.
alt dies and it should run off battery!
Lights will dim and car will be act like no power.
You say you swapped alt.
Still had enough bat to start?
Curious description of trouble.
Any update?
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by calwldlife
I am confused.
alt dies and it should run off battery!
Lights will dim and car will be act like no power.
You say you swapped alt.
Still had enough bat to start?
Curious description of trouble.
Any update?
New development...I remember when I was changing the alt, my electric choke wire came off and was resting on my chrome valve cover. I took it off and everything was working fine again. I realized today that my choke isn't opening now. Pretty sure it's just not getting enough air at high RPMs, but why isn't my choke opening now?
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Old Dec 30, 2017 | 12:14 AM
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Blown fuse?
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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Just do a search for M.A.D alternator conversions and all your problems will get solved!
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 06:05 PM
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A heli takes 12 volts a 1974 coil takes 7.4 to 8 volts.

Run a jumper from the battery to the positive wire on the heli (disconnect the original) and start the truck. If it runs better the problem is that the resistor wire or resister itself is still in the system. To stop the truck pull the jumper.

I would go with a 1 wire alt if I was working on a truck I did not build.
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BLUE1972
A heli takes 12 volts a 1974 coil takes 7.4 to 8 volts.

Run a jumper from the battery to the positive wire on the heli (disconnect the original) and start the truck. If it runs better the problem is that the resistor wire or resister itself is still in the system. To stop the truck pull the jumper.

I would go with a 1 wire alt if I was working on a truck I did not build.
Might sound dumb, but what exactly is a heli?
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CheyenneC10_74
Might sound dumb, but what exactly is a heli?
He probably meant HEI.
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Old Jan 7, 2018 | 08:10 AM
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EXACTLY, thanks that is why I hate auto spell...

The original coil is run on a resistance, the new distributors need a full 12 volts.
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