4speedoverdrive

I bought a 73 Coupe that is in excellent original condition. I'm trying to fix a number of things that need repair. The item I'm looking at fixing next is the radio. It's the original radio, AM/FM stereo. The radio comes on, but I only get sound out of one speaker. Although the radio fuse was blown when I bought the car. I'm assuming the driver side speaker is bad, but not sure. I've looked around here and there are all kinds of stories about how difficult it is to remove the dash. I could not find any specific thread that addresses just replacing the speakers. So some questions. Is it possible to do a speaker replacement without pulling the whole dash apart? Or in other words, what is the easiest way to replace the speakers? I will do them both. It sounds like the most straight forward option is to purchase the Electro-tech 8 Ohm speakers. Any other comments that would be helpful?

Thanks

Vetteman Jack

Moved to C3 Tech/Performance Section.

001pewter

Wrong section, may wanna ask a mod to move this

kansas123

I did this many years ago on my '72. I believe you could start by removing the passenger side dash panel (map panel), and then the remaining upper dash panel screws (you might also have to remove the wiper switch panel above the center dash panel). This may allow you to lift the dash pad up. Keep in mind that there are speaker wires hooked up that will limit how high you can lift that dash pad; raise it carefully enough to unplug those wires before going further.

I'm sure others will chime in with more help. If it's cold where you are, your parts/panels may be stiff and crunchy so take it easy on them. i have a small elec space heater that I will put in my cabin to help make parts and wires more pliable since it is cold and the wires are old.

resdoggie

You can try dropping the steering column and then removing or repositioing the dash panel to get access. If you remove the steering column, which is not that difficult, the dash is easy to remove and you will have access to the speaker. If you don't remove the strg column, be very careful with that dash because it can be easily damaged.

Wee

I tackled this a couple of years ago....I was also changing out the radio so the center gauge console was out...I'm not sure if the speakers could be changed without taking that out as well or not....? The passenger side is easy the drivers side is a pain. Be careful with the speaker brackets they are pot metal and will break easy.

Here are some photos of my radio/speaker project.

Brian

lvmyvt76

take the trim off the windshield posts, the passenger side dash, all the screws from the lower dash to dash pad, and then lift up and maybe bow the dash pad a little in the middle, BE CAREFUL not to bow too much it may break, I did not care since I was replacing the old one with a new pad which was a little more flexible. Then put everything back in. Make sure to buy speakers which are compatible with your radio. GOOD LUCK

henrikse

Take the dash pads and center console off. Easy to access and you mad need to modify factory bracket or new speaker. Buy speakers that are light as not made for huge magent. As much of a pain to get drivers dash off there is a lot of work you can do with it off. You ca check wiring which you usually find some problems as well as re do grounds while apart. Check vacuum solenoids etc

4speedoverdrive

Thanks for the feedback. I just ordered speakers from turnswitch.com. I don't want t pull the dash apart till I get the speakers.

SwampeastMike

GM loudspeakers of that vintage have high impedance. The dash speakers in C3s are 10 ohm. Compare that with modern loudspeakers of the same size that are 4 or even 2 ohm.

If you don't want to destroy the original convector (GM's name for what amounts to a power amplifier) you need to stay with loudspeakers with very similar specification!

4speedoverdrive

SwampeastMike, you are right, that's why I went with the speakers from turnswitch.com. They are recommended in a couple of other threads on radios and speakers in this forum. These speakers are reported to be 8 ohms. I did not see any other options other than wiring in an additional set of speakers in series in the kick panels. As you indicated most of the 4X6 speakers available at Crutchfields and the like are 2 to 4 ohms.

Richard454

Just a thought-

BEFORE you tear into the driverside which is a pain- even for someone who has done it 30 plus times...

Remove the seven screws that hold the passenger side panel first- swap the left and right speaker connectors (black/green 2 prong ) behind the radio FIRST and make sure its not the radio.

Never assume on these cars.....


Richard

BLUE1972

Remember the dash pad is plastic, the colder it gets the easier to crack.

I did mine in the summer with the sun on the dash and it flexed easily.

Yes remove both A pillar covers and all the screws, you may have a brace on the passenger side, centered (somewhat) behind the lower dash pad.

GCG

0Willcox Corvette

Pulling the upper dash pad isn't all that hard... One trick is to lengthen the speaker wires. If you follow this guide you can pull the upper pad without issue. You don't need to pull the drives side pad either, just the passenger side and the driver side screws.

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...structions.pdf

If you are going to run the stock radio you'll need to run the stock ohms speakers. Personally I'd upgrade to the look alike style radio that has the blue tooth and can hip up with the newer higher output speakers and if you do decide to do this you just run the speaker wires direct from the radio to the speaker bypassing the rectifiers.

The newer design will offer you way better sound and options (like running rear speaker wires and speakers).

I did this on my 72 and loved it.

The other thing... regardless of which way you go.... Make the speaker wires longer before you re-install the upper pad... and make sure you are extra careful when you push upward to remove the upper pad (you'll see if you read my instruction sheet)... They can become brittle and you don't want to break it.

Radio
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...nal-appearance

Speakers
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...placement-68-8

Willcox

4speedoverdrive

As an update, I replaced the speakers and both channels of the radio now work fine. I lifted the dash pad using the instructions from Wilcox. That is the good news.

Now the bad news, The windshield wipers now do not work I may have plugged the connector to the switch up side down. Is there a way to tell the correct orientation? I plugged in the switch and the wipers worked, I turned off and then back on nothing. I checked the fuze, it was ok. I also have 12.5 volts from both outside pins of the connector to the center pin. I broke the switch testing to see if it was ok, so I have to buy a new switch. Is there anything else that would be sensitive to having the switch plugged in backwards? motor?

kansas123

Good question, I thought this plastic deal sticking out was the fool proof for installation, but my new aftermarket will install either way! Uh oh!!! Hopefully if you plug it in the wrong way the fuse will blow before the switch or anything else gets ruined?

4speedoverdrive

There is a Wilcox You Tube on testing the switch. From that video the tab on the back of the switch should prevent the installation of the switch backwards, but it doesn't. The correct way for the switch installation is with the Tabs on the switch and connectors on the opposite sides. It turns out I had had the connector installed correctly on the switch, but the whole assembly needs to be grounded. I'm hoping that was my problem, so I'm waiting for my new switch to arrive.

4speedoverdrive

So I got the switch, installed it, then checked the ground at the switch, seemed ok. Then went to the motor, per the instructions on this forum, checked the ground at the motor housing, OK. Checked the motor using the test procedure while still installed in the car, the motor would not run. Removed the motor from the car and ran the test procedure off Willcox. Motor ran fine. installed back in the car. Now everything works. Don't know why it works now. Could it be that the linkage is binding up? After reinstalling the motor I played around with the linkage some. It seems like the wipers are pressed hard against the bottom stop. I tried to adjust them to park more lightly, but then the sweep is well beyond the edge of the windshield. Just to be clear the motor I'm referring to is the windshield wiper motor.