Dash Speakers
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2017
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Dash Speakers
I bought a 73 Coupe that is in excellent original condition. I'm trying to fix a number of things that need repair. The item I'm looking at fixing next is the radio. It's the original radio, AM/FM stereo. The radio comes on, but I only get sound out of one speaker. Although the radio fuse was blown when I bought the car. I'm assuming the driver side speaker is bad, but not sure. I've looked around here and there are all kinds of stories about how difficult it is to remove the dash. I could not find any specific thread that addresses just replacing the speakers. So some questions. Is it possible to do a speaker replacement without pulling the whole dash apart? Or in other words, what is the easiest way to replace the speakers? I will do them both. It sounds like the most straight forward option is to purchase the Electro-tech 8 Ohm speakers. Any other comments that would be helpful?
Thanks
Thanks
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,818
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From: Wichita Kansas
I bought a 73 Coupe that is in excellent original condition. I'm trying to fix a number of things that need repair. The item I'm looking at fixing next is the radio. It's the original radio, AM/FM stereo. The radio comes on, but I only get sound out of one speaker. Although the radio fuse was blown when I bought the car. I'm assuming the driver side speaker is bad, but not sure. I've looked around here and there are all kinds of stories about how difficult it is to remove the dash. I could not find any specific thread that addresses just replacing the speakers. So some questions. Is it possible to do a speaker replacement without pulling the whole dash apart? Or in other words, what is the easiest way to replace the speakers? I will do them both. It sounds like the most straight forward option is to purchase the Electro-tech 8 Ohm speakers. Any other comments that would be helpful?
Thanks
Thanks
I'm sure others will chime in with more help. If it's cold where you are, your parts/panels may be stiff and crunchy so take it easy on them. i have a small elec space heater that I will put in my cabin to help make parts and wires more pliable since it is cold and the wires are old.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
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You can try dropping the steering column and then removing or repositioing the dash panel to get access. If you remove the steering column, which is not that difficult, the dash is easy to remove and you will have access to the speaker. If you don't remove the strg column, be very careful with that dash because it can be easily damaged.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,857
Likes: 332
From: Cartersville GA
I tackled this a couple of years ago....I was also changing out the radio so the center gauge console was out...I'm not sure if the speakers could be changed without taking that out as well or not....? The passenger side is easy the drivers side is a pain. Be careful with the speaker brackets they are pot metal and will break easy.
Here are some photos of my radio/speaker project.
Brian
Here are some photos of my radio/speaker project.
Brian
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 119
From: Springfield Missouri
take the trim off the windshield posts, the passenger side dash, all the screws from the lower dash to dash pad, and then lift up and maybe bow the dash pad a little in the middle, BE CAREFUL not to bow too much it may break, I did not care since I was replacing the old one with a new pad which was a little more flexible. Then put everything back in. Make sure to buy speakers which are compatible with your radio. GOOD LUCK
Last edited by lvmyvt76; Jan 7, 2018 at 08:48 PM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 729
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From: Kelowna British Columbia
Take the dash pads and center console off. Easy to access and you mad need to modify factory bracket or new speaker. Buy speakers that are light as not made for huge magent. As much of a pain to get drivers dash off there is a lot of work you can do with it off. You ca check wiring which you usually find some problems as well as re do grounds while apart. Check vacuum solenoids etc
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
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From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
GM loudspeakers of that vintage have high impedance. The dash speakers in C3s are 10 ohm. Compare that with modern loudspeakers of the same size that are 4 or even 2 ohm.
If you don't want to destroy the original convector (GM's name for what amounts to a power amplifier) you need to stay with loudspeakers with very similar specification!
If you don't want to destroy the original convector (GM's name for what amounts to a power amplifier) you need to stay with loudspeakers with very similar specification!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2017
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SwampeastMike, you are right, that's why I went with the speakers from turnswitch.com. They are recommended in a couple of other threads on radios and speakers in this forum. These speakers are reported to be 8 ohms. I did not see any other options other than wiring in an additional set of speakers in series in the kick panels. As you indicated most of the 4X6 speakers available at Crutchfields and the like are 2 to 4 ohms.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
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From: Fernandina Beach FL
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Just a thought-
BEFORE you tear into the driverside which is a pain- even for someone who has done it 30 plus times...
Remove the seven screws that hold the passenger side panel first- swap the left and right speaker connectors (black/green 2 prong ) behind the radio FIRST and make sure its not the radio.
Never assume on these cars.....
Richard
BEFORE you tear into the driverside which is a pain- even for someone who has done it 30 plus times...
Remove the seven screws that hold the passenger side panel first- swap the left and right speaker connectors (black/green 2 prong ) behind the radio FIRST and make sure its not the radio.
Never assume on these cars.....
Richard
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,262
Likes: 1,678
From: Long Island
Remember the dash pad is plastic, the colder it gets the easier to crack.
I did mine in the summer with the sun on the dash and it flexed easily.
Yes remove both A pillar covers and all the screws, you may have a brace on the passenger side, centered (somewhat) behind the lower dash pad.
I did mine in the summer with the sun on the dash and it flexed easily.
Yes remove both A pillar covers and all the screws, you may have a brace on the passenger side, centered (somewhat) behind the lower dash pad.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
Just a thought-
BEFORE you tear into the driverside which is a pain- even for someone who has done it 30 plus times...
Remove the seven screws that hold the passenger side panel first- swap the left and right speaker connectors (black/green 2 prong ) behind the radio FIRST and make sure its not the radio [or a bad connection]
Never assume on these cars.....
Richard
BEFORE you tear into the driverside which is a pain- even for someone who has done it 30 plus times...
Remove the seven screws that hold the passenger side panel first- swap the left and right speaker connectors (black/green 2 prong ) behind the radio FIRST and make sure its not the radio [or a bad connection]
Never assume on these cars.....
Richard
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Pulling the upper dash pad isn't all that hard... One trick is to lengthen the speaker wires. If you follow this guide you can pull the upper pad without issue. You don't need to pull the drives side pad either, just the passenger side and the driver side screws.
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...structions.pdf
If you are going to run the stock radio you'll need to run the stock ohms speakers. Personally I'd upgrade to the look alike style radio that has the blue tooth and can hip up with the newer higher output speakers and if you do decide to do this you just run the speaker wires direct from the radio to the speaker bypassing the rectifiers.
The newer design will offer you way better sound and options (like running rear speaker wires and speakers).
I did this on my 72 and loved it.
The other thing... regardless of which way you go.... Make the speaker wires longer before you re-install the upper pad... and make sure you are extra careful when you push upward to remove the upper pad (you'll see if you read my instruction sheet)... They can become brittle and you don't want to break it.
Radio
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...nal-appearance
Speakers
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...placement-68-8
Willcox
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...structions.pdf
If you are going to run the stock radio you'll need to run the stock ohms speakers. Personally I'd upgrade to the look alike style radio that has the blue tooth and can hip up with the newer higher output speakers and if you do decide to do this you just run the speaker wires direct from the radio to the speaker bypassing the rectifiers.
The newer design will offer you way better sound and options (like running rear speaker wires and speakers).
I did this on my 72 and loved it.
The other thing... regardless of which way you go.... Make the speaker wires longer before you re-install the upper pad... and make sure you are extra careful when you push upward to remove the upper pad (you'll see if you read my instruction sheet)... They can become brittle and you don't want to break it.
Radio
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...nal-appearance
Speakers
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...placement-68-8
Willcox
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 30
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Speakers are now ok, now a problem with wipers
As an update, I replaced the speakers and both channels of the radio now work fine. I lifted the dash pad using the instructions from Wilcox. That is the good news.
Now the bad news, The windshield wipers now do not work I may have plugged the connector to the switch up side down. Is there a way to tell the correct orientation? I plugged in the switch and the wipers worked, I turned off and then back on nothing. I checked the fuze, it was ok. I also have 12.5 volts from both outside pins of the connector to the center pin. I broke the switch testing to see if it was ok, so I have to buy a new switch. Is there anything else that would be sensitive to having the switch plugged in backwards? motor?
Now the bad news, The windshield wipers now do not work I may have plugged the connector to the switch up side down. Is there a way to tell the correct orientation? I plugged in the switch and the wipers worked, I turned off and then back on nothing. I checked the fuze, it was ok. I also have 12.5 volts from both outside pins of the connector to the center pin. I broke the switch testing to see if it was ok, so I have to buy a new switch. Is there anything else that would be sensitive to having the switch plugged in backwards? motor?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,818
Likes: 470
From: Wichita Kansas
As an update, I replaced the speakers and both channels of the radio now work fine. I lifted the dash pad using the instructions from Wilcox. That is the good news.
Now the bad news, The windshield wipers now do not work I may have plugged the connector to the switch up side down. Is there a way to tell the correct orientation? I plugged in the switch and the wipers worked, I turned off and then back on nothing. I checked the fuze, it was ok. I also have 12.5 volts from both outside pins of the connector to the center pin. I broke the switch testing to see if it was ok, so I have to buy a new switch. Is there anything else that would be sensitive to having the switch plugged in backwards? motor?
Now the bad news, The windshield wipers now do not work I may have plugged the connector to the switch up side down. Is there a way to tell the correct orientation? I plugged in the switch and the wipers worked, I turned off and then back on nothing. I checked the fuze, it was ok. I also have 12.5 volts from both outside pins of the connector to the center pin. I broke the switch testing to see if it was ok, so I have to buy a new switch. Is there anything else that would be sensitive to having the switch plugged in backwards? motor?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 30
Likes: 11
There is a Wilcox You Tube on testing the switch. From that video the tab on the back of the switch should prevent the installation of the switch backwards, but it doesn't. The correct way for the switch installation is with the Tabs on the switch and connectors on the opposite sides. It turns out I had had the connector installed correctly on the switch, but the whole assembly needs to be grounded. I'm hoping that was my problem, so I'm waiting for my new switch to arrive.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 30
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So I got the switch, installed it, then checked the ground at the switch, seemed ok. Then went to the motor, per the instructions on this forum, checked the ground at the motor housing, OK. Checked the motor using the test procedure while still installed in the car, the motor would not run. Removed the motor from the car and ran the test procedure off Willcox. Motor ran fine. installed back in the car. Now everything works. Don't know why it works now. Could it be that the linkage is binding up? After reinstalling the motor I played around with the linkage some. It seems like the wipers are pressed hard against the bottom stop. I tried to adjust them to park more lightly, but then the sweep is well beyond the edge of the windshield. Just to be clear the motor I'm referring to is the windshield wiper motor.
Last edited by 4speedoverdrive; Apr 27, 2018 at 03:40 PM.