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They have some rust, but not so bad I think.
The only problem is that there is a small hole (about 1 mm dia.).
I know someone who would weld it for free, but is it worth it, and is it possible?
I've read from a lot of guys on the forum, that uncoated headers are hot as hell. What is the best 'ceramic' paint out here (Europe)?
I know they won't survive for a lot of years, but I'm going to use them as a test, because I never installed headers on my '77 Corvette and I want to see, hear and feel what they 'give' to my car.
If I don't like them I just replace them again with my original manifolds.
Hello,
I have that set of headers on my car. They are easy to install and fit great.
Imo I would not spend any money on that set of headers. Coat a new set of headers and be done with it. Those headers will continue to rust in other areas than the hole. They rust from the inside also.
Don't buy a new set of coated Hooker Headers. Their coating sucks.
If all you want is to try out headers on your car and you paid very little for those headers, great idea! If you are good with running headers, buy a good set with a quality coating or do what I did, buy Stainless Steel headers and have them coated locally in BE
The only problem is that there is a small hole (about 1 mm dia.).
I know someone who would weld it for free, but is it worth it, and is it possible?
As stated above that is just the first of other holes to develop. If you get the welding for free go for it and try, but those headers are not long for this world. Depending on how much you drive and how damp your garage is maybe a season or two.
You could also try some high temp epoxy instead. I put some 3500F epoxy on a cracked header years ago and still holding up.
The way that pin hole faces, towards either the starter or close to the oil filter, I think you should patch it first. Afterwards, rub the set down with steelwool. Then see if VHT (very high temp) paint company has a primer to spray on those, then a final coat. I believe
VHT has a color called ceramic silver that would work well for you if available in Europe.
I would fix the hole, then there is a paste you can put on exhaust manifolds, turns it black, or just clean them up and then paint them with header paint. This would allow you to save up and buy a new set if you like them. You do know that you are going to have to change the exhaust pipes to fit the headers, don't you?? Add your country to your avatar, so we know where you live.
I agree with what most have already said. For all the more you paid for the headers I would patch the hole and spray them with some high temp spray paint and run them. I have hooker headers and side pipes that I painted with high temp black (2000 degree I believe) and it holds up very nicely I feel.
Last edited by bence13_33; Jan 20, 2018 at 01:32 PM.
Media blast them. If no other holes open up then weld the hole and paint them.
I wouldn't give it another thought after they are blasted.
I'll add-- media blast them GENTLY! Hit them with anything aggressive and they'll look like swiss cheese. Header tubes are thin to start with. If nothing else shows up, patch that hole and hit them with some hi temp paint. If you like them, then go after a set of Jet-Hot coated ones.
As stated above that is just the first of other holes to develop. If you get the welding for free go for it and try, but those headers are not long for this world. Depending on how much you drive and how damp your garage is maybe a season or two.
You could also try some high temp epoxy instead. I put some 3500F epoxy on a cracked header years ago and still holding up.
I never drive my Vette when it's raining.
When I don't drive it, it's in a bone-dry garage.
Would it rust that quickly after I sand blasted and painted them?
I have not used that product on exhaust, but it looks good for 1200*F. Should be ok. Which ever (POR / VHT) is easier for you to get. I still would hit it with some high temp primer first to make sure your final coat will stick for yrs & yrs.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 21, 2018 at 10:11 AM.
If all you want is to try out headers on your car and you paid very little for those headers, great idea! If you are good with running headers, buy a good set with a quality coating or do what I did, buy Stainless Steel headers and have them coated locally in BE
Yep, Stainless is the way to go...Mine are wrapped to keep the heat down...
Yep, Stainless is the way to go...Mine are wrapped to keep the heat down...
My Stainless Steel Headers ceramic coated locally. I have no heat issues with these headers coated...no heat in the car, under my feet or emanating from under the car when standing outside with the car running.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 21, 2018 at 11:46 AM.
Looks a lot like VHT coating because of the overspray on the extension and the matt finish as opposed to a luster. And you might want to get a wrench on that top bolt.
The coating is definitely ceramic, trust me, it has a textured finish (almost a rough feel) and is thick, not like paint. It was baked in a oven for final curing and definitely reduced the heat from the header a LOT. The overspray was from the muffler shop on the weld connecting the header reducer to the 2.5 inch pipe. And yes, that bolt was left loose by the muffler shop and was corrected by me.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 21, 2018 at 05:06 PM.