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I have a 427/390 L36 engine that was bored .030 over, left to sit, and then needs a rebore AGAIN in one of the cylinders due to rust from 20 years of sitting with the valve open.
So, I can either:
a) Punch the entire thing .060 over
b) Sleeve that one hole and keep it all 0.030 over
Since I would then disclose this, would you as a buyer rather have a motor that's .060 over or that has one sleeve?
With custom pistons, why not just go 40 over on all 8. The cost to sleeve would probably run you every bit what the extra cost of custom pistons would run!
I would never sleeve, unless I really wanted to save an original block for whatever reason! I would probably then sleeve all eight to be a perfectionist!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Jan 24, 2018 at 11:24 AM.
It is worth it to haul it over to a machinist and have him cut in steps to see where it does clean up! Then make decisions! Usually sleeves are an automatic thought if one or more of the bores are cracked! Not knowing what block you have, on some engines 60 can be pushing things! You also have to consider the overbore for a sleeve itself! Some shops can read the wall thickness, to know if you are good! Ford 289s are notorious for having variations from block to block as to how much of a safe and practical overbore can be done! I am a Siamese bow tie block guy, and those can go out to 125 usually in a breeze!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Jan 24, 2018 at 11:37 AM.
They're going to sonic-check the block and get back to me. My thinking was that if I know the block is good for 100 or 120, then going 060 won't be a big deal. If it's tight, then sleeving it might be better.
For the purposes of this thread though I was more concerned with buyer perception than the technical details... just how do people "feel" about a sleeve vs a large overbore.
I'd choose whatever 's the cheapest, then again, I'm only a poor student ;-)
If funds were no problem, +60 really is the way I'd go, just because I know I'd want the 5 extra bhp from those CC's ( maybe more, no idea tbh).
I just sleeved my one cylinder a couple weeks ago and it came out beautiful. Saved my pistons. Didn't have to re deck the block. Cost was around $180. You know my vote....0.02
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Sleeving is a great way to save a valuable block or repair just 1or 2 cylinders. But it's always going to be cheaper to just bore the block if you have to buy a full set of pistons anyways. Before strong aftermarket blocks were available some owners/racers would sleeve all the cylinders but at $200 a sleeve that's now an expensive block and used standard bore blocks would be much cheaper.
Unless you have specific concerns let the cost of sleeving be your guide.
The only other thing is that we don't know if torque plates were used when they bored it. I have the bill for that rebuild and the overbore charge was $100 no mention of plates, so I assume not.
Am I correct in assuming that if a block has been bored .030 without plates, it cannot be bored 0.030 WITH plates? You'd have to go larger. So that is perhaps an argument for the overbore approach.
Or I could say "Factory didn't use torque plates either" and still sleeve it.
Will let you know what the sonic checking revealed when I hear back.
Looks like it's going to need a sleeve because the rust might not even clean up at 0.060.
I now have a final choice to make:
- Sleeve bad hole, go .040 over with new pistons, balance, deck, and torque-plate hone
or
- Sleeve bad hole, stay 0.030 with existing pistons, balance, assemble
In other words, if I want to torque plate hone the motor, I've got to change pistons. I'm not that passionate about it but the notion of -not- using torque plates seems to really bother my builder.
So, if I can find a good 0.040 piston with the right dome (suggestions welcome) I think that's where we're headed.
Looks like it's going to need a sleeve because the rust might not even clean up at 0.060.
I now have a final choice to make:
- Sleeve bad hole, go .040 over with new pistons, balance, deck, and torque-plate hone
or
- Sleeve bad hole, stay 0.030 with existing pistons, balance, assemble
In other words, if I want to torque plate hone the motor, I've got to change pistons. I'm not that passionate about it but the notion of -not- using torque plates seems to really bother my builder.
So, if I can find a good 0.040 piston with the right dome (suggestions welcome) I think that's where we're headed.
Since the builder is the one that has to stand behind his work, what does he want to do? The cost will be close either way.
He'll let me decide, but his suggestion is 0.040 in all holes with a sleeve in the bad one. Makes sense to me, the only downside is we're doing new pistons and an overbore really just to get torque plates. That's where we're not really on the same page.
My thinking is Tonawanda built a million of them without torque plates, but I'm not going to push him into doing what he feels is a "substandard" job, because I want his A game on everything else.
With all the machining costs why not just purchase a new GM 454 4 bolt block, $1300.00 from Summit Racing.
Put in standard 454 pistons and have a new block, pistons, and rings. That way you have no sleeved cylinders and 454 cu in, which will increase the value of you car.
There are plenty of used 454's on craigslist and ebay.
He'll let me decide, but his suggestion is 0.040 in all holes with a sleeve in the bad one. Makes sense to me, the only downside is we're doing new pistons and an overbore really just to get torque plates. That's where we're not really on the same page.
My thinking is Tonawanda built a million of them without torque plates, but I'm not going to push him into doing what he feels is a "substandard" job, because I want his A game on everything else.
I had this discussion with my builder back in 2014 and he told me that if you are not racing it, no issues without a torque plate. My engine is strictly street with occasional blasts to 6,000 RPM. 5 th driving season coming up and zero issues................