vince vette 2

Is there some trick or handy procedure to disconnecting the drive shaft from the differential on C3's? Body is on the and there just isn't a lot of space to get in and take the strap screws off. The diff is coming out to be rebuilt and have gears swapped from 3.07 to 3.54.

Also, what is meant by marking the prop shaft? I assume it means to note its orientation vs. the diff yoke. But if the gears are being swapped will the yoke be replaced and there is marking irrelevant?

Thanks

procketus

If your pulling the whole rear out, just leave the driveshaft connected and carefully pull it all out at the same time. That's how I did mine.
When you go to reinstall just bolt it back together and slide it back in. Helps to have some one guide the yoke back into the transmission also.

HeadsU.P.

The secret is to hire a kid about 12 yrs old with very small hands but is good with a boxend wrench.
To index the shaft take a small paint brush / paint run a line thru the joints at both ends of the shaft. Then you will know its going back the correct orientation. Put a catch pan under the tranny, it will drip.

This is a excellent time to install a new snubber bushing. And if the tranny tailshaft was a leaker, here's your chance to change the seal. Speedometer read correctly? Good time to change the gear.

Might want to consider solid Spicer U-Joints too.

lvmyvt76

also time to check & change u-joints? maybe the transmission seal? if leaking any. I have a GM snubber bushing(fits 76 maybe yours). Pm me for price.

Mooser

For what it's worth I use a ratchet and a couple of long extensions, the one on the socket is the ball tip style that allows a little mis-alignment instead of a swivel. If you use a swivel tape it to keep it from flopping

Then you should be able to go in from in-front of the last crossmember about 4-5 o-clock I think gave enough room to work
M

Mooser

Looks like I also used a deep socket, usually has a thinner wall so maybe that's why, don't remember for sure




M

drwet

I just put mine back together the other night and that's how I did it. I have a 3/8" air ratchet which makes it go real quick.

vince vette 2

Thank-you all for the input. On the tranny, my plan is to replace it with a 200-4R. But I plan to have that done rather than install it myself as I'm not certain I want to be responsible for setting up the Tv. So I'll just leave it as is. Heck, it's been leaking since it was 2 years old. What's another year.

So based on what everyone has said it appears I have two options - slide the shaft out of the tranny or use some long socket extensions. I'll have to think it through. I'm working in pretty primitive conditions. The car is blocked up in the rear on 4x4's with the frame about 15" off the floor. So I don't have a lot of room to maneuver.

My overall plan for this stage is replace the all the bushings with poly, replace the shocks which are old in years but probably have under 10k on them, install a composite spring (I'm thinking 330 lb rate range), and I guess that's about it.

caskiguy

Just a suggestion, but instead of investing in parts now, invest in safety first. I'm not a fan of jack stands or blocks but I found some very safe useful stands that allowed me a comfortable working space. Good luck.





Myliftstand.com<br/><br/>Worth every penny IMO
But had I known of the Ranger Quick Jack I probably would have chosen that.

Franks73

When I was doing that, had the frame up on jack stands, tranny in neutral. This allowed me to rotate the tires and shaft, and get to each bolt. As far as marking the shaft, I believe the intention is to reduce the chance of getting a vibration when you put it back together.

vince vette 2

I understand the concern. I have been looking but just didn't find anything that suits yet for what I want to pay. But I'm pretty conservative on what I'll crawl under. The blocks are 4x4 each 18" long stacked criss cross and topped by 2x8's for a flat surface for the frame to sit on. The front tires are chocked. And after jacking it up I wait a couple days before going under to work on it. During those days I periodically push the car from different angles to be sure nothing moves.

Neil B

I agree. Being able to rotate the wheels to put each bolt where you need it is the key to getting them out.