replacing wheel studs
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,476
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From: Mt Juliet TN
replacing wheel studs
I had to fix a brake leak last week so I went ahead and bled all 4 brakes. When I went to put the wheels back on the wheel stud just snapped right off. So now I have one missing from the front and one missing from the back. Does anyone know where to get new studs? Are the front ones different from the rears? I can see how to get the old stud out of the front hub but how the heck do you get it out of the back?
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Severna Park Md
Re: replacing wheel studs (TTop Tony)
If you remove the rotor from the rear you should be able to drive the broken stud out with a drift punch. It may fall into the parking brake mechinism and then just fish it out. To get the new one in without removing the spindle you may need to use some type of slide hammer tool to pull the new stud into place. You obviously wont be able to strike it from behind with a hammer if the spindle is still on the car. You might try getting an old brake drum with the same chevy pattern. Slide the brake drum over the existing studs backwards. Install the stud thru the spindle from the rear side. Screw on a lug to the new stud a few turns. Then by pushing the drum in against the spindle, then slamming it outward against the lug, it may be enough to pull the new stud far enough into position so it bites. Then when you install the wheel and tighten the lug it could pull the stud flush in place. This somewhat bubba aproach has worked for me. Good luck.
Im not totally sure but the studs for the front should be the same for the rear
[Modified by Jvette73, 10:36 AM 10/14/2002]
Im not totally sure but the studs for the front should be the same for the rear
[Modified by Jvette73, 10:36 AM 10/14/2002]
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,004
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From: Severna Park Md
Re: replacing wheel studs (Jvette73)
In addition to above you might try this. Once you get the stud to bite with the slide hammer brake drum bit, put a larger nut over the stud to take up some play. Then install a lug onto the stud and attempt to pull the stud into place by tightening the lug. It will either pull into place or slip if it doesnt have enough of a bite.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,476
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From: Mt Juliet TN
Re: replacing wheel studs (Jvette73)
Thanks JVette that doesn't sound as bad as I thought. I'm not sure about drilling out the rear rotors. Will they have to be rewelded or will the torqued wheels keep them in place?
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Severna Park Md
Re: replacing wheel studs (TTop Tony)
Tony, all I can say to answer your Q on rotor rivets is that when I dissembled mine to rebuild the rear bearings my rivits had been drilled. I marked which studs lined up with which holes to insure that I put them back on the same way they came off to avoid any runout problems. Mine are no longer rivited and are held down secure with the lugs as the wheel is put back on. Ive had no problems with them.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,476
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From: Mt Juliet TN
Re: replacing wheel studs (Jvette73)
thats cool thanks. I must admit I'm a bit phobic about my back rotors. they seem overly complicated so I was hoping not to have to touch them. I'll make it a point to mark them like you say.
Le Mans Master
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From: Semper ubi, sub ubi
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Re: replacing wheel studs (TTop Tony)
Tony,
The back studs are a real beaach to replace without removing the spindel, but it can be done. First of all you'll have to get a shorter than standard lug, there just isn't enough room to fit a full length stud in there. I had to use a long thin set of needle nosed pliers and a piece of stiff wire to position the stud in the hole and push it through. After I got it in the hole, I was able to "Pull" it into flange by using a lug nut and an impact. The bolt I used was about 1/4" to 3/8" shorter than a stock lug bolt and I no longer can get a full nut on the bolt with the wheel in place.
I removed the broken lug by driving it out with a dift pin and a 5lb hammer.
Good Luck!
The back studs are a real beaach to replace without removing the spindel, but it can be done. First of all you'll have to get a shorter than standard lug, there just isn't enough room to fit a full length stud in there. I had to use a long thin set of needle nosed pliers and a piece of stiff wire to position the stud in the hole and push it through. After I got it in the hole, I was able to "Pull" it into flange by using a lug nut and an impact. The bolt I used was about 1/4" to 3/8" shorter than a stock lug bolt and I no longer can get a full nut on the bolt with the wheel in place.
I removed the broken lug by driving it out with a dift pin and a 5lb hammer.
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,476
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From: Mt Juliet TN
Re: replacing wheel studs (Smokehouse69)
I'll have to look at it once I get it apart. Might be a good job for one of those real cold winter days when theres no chance I'd drive the car. That way I can take my time and not be too depressed about my car being on jacks (again).
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Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 12
Re: replacing wheel studs (TTop Tony)
Driving the spindle out ain't a tough job you know. Unbolt the halfshaft, remove the flange, drive the sindle out. You don't have to remove the parking brake assembly. That way you'll do a clean job with the right bolt. ;)
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,476
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From: Mt Juliet TN
Re: replacing wheel studs (Lohkay)
I'll try it the other way. If I can't get the wheel stud through then I probably don't have much of a choice. But its definitly looking like a winter project to me
