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Is there a way to test the tripower secondary vacuum cans for torn or leaking bellow ?
The vacuum hose on the right hand ( pax ) side that comes from ea of the 3 carbs and Ts together does not work on this. ( sucking air through the hoses is free flow ).
the typical method is to put a paper clip on the rod below the housing, drive the car aggressively to force open the diaphragm and then check the paperclip. If it didn't move the throttle did not open up.
Yes, I did that, but it doesn't really tell if both cans are OK as 1 ea will also open the carbs, won't it ?
And disconnecting the 2ndary linkage and driving the car to individually check both cans for opening during driving might not be a good idea as forced closing by the gas pedal via the linkage is missing.
Any thoughts except for opening the cans up for visually inspecting the bellows ?
where would you hook up an external vacuum source such as a mityvac? Isnt the vacuum source port built into the main body casting? You would have to remove the complete housing from the main body.
I'm assuming the OP's question is how to check the secondary carb diaphragms for leakage. If so, unplug the hose from the vacuum can and use the mityvac to see if each can holds vacuum and the throttle shaft rotates.
There is no hose to the vacuum can. It is internally in the carb.
That's why testing it is so difficult.
I am still struggling to understand what the right side vacuum hoses that connect
all 3 carbs together , do.
There is no hose to the vacuum can. It is internally in the carb.
That's why testing it is so difficult.
I am still struggling to understand what the right side vacuum hoses that connect
all 3 carbs together , do.
Rgds Günther
You do have Holley 2300 two barrel carbs? Mine has a vacuum hose to each end carb.
There is no hose to the vacuum can. It is internally in the carb.
That's why testing it is so difficult.
I am still struggling to understand what the right side vacuum hoses that connect
all 3 carbs together , do.
Rgds Günther
The center carb generates vacuum that is applied to the hose on that carb. Through a tee, the vacuum is transferred to the other (two) hoses on the outboard carbs. The outboard carb hose nipples are connected internally to the outboard diaphragms. There is also a gasket between the diaphragms and the carb body. If you apply a vacuum on the outboard carb nipple (5/32 vac hose), it should apply the diaphragm against the internal return spring. The pod should activate and hold vacuum. If not, the diaphragm and/or the gasket is leaking either because it is loose, or it is faulty.
I hate to admit this but, I tried my own suggestion on the end carbs on my engine and a spare set of 3 carbs I have and none hold vacuum using a mityvac. This is going to require some more research. If any of you have tri powers, let us know if your end carbs hold vacuum. The ones on my car were rebuilt 3 years ago.
You can't test those diaphragms by applying vacuum to the nipple, there's an internal bleed drilled inside the main body that will prevent them from holding vacuum this way.
The only way to test them is to remove the diaphragm assembly from the carb, compress the diaphragm & spring and hold your finger over the vacuum hole on the mounting surface. The diaphragm should remain collapsed until you remove your finger.
FWIW, I've seen brand new diaphragm assemblies leak ever so slightly testing like this. I think it's related to the lid being somewhat flimsy around the perimeter and not staying flat enough when the screws are tightened down to maintain a seal.
there's an internal bleed drilled inside the main body
Thanks so much. This is what I remembered from overhauling the carbs a couple of years ago , but wasn't sure anymore.
Having both carb pods being inop after such short time was nearly out of the question.
Now having all the specialists together, I had the car on a roller test stand and observed the 2ndaries starting to open at 4500 RPM only.
Never opened fully up because the test run couldn't be completed due to speed index of the tires being too low.
Now, is 4500 not too late ? Is there adjustment springs or anything similar available for the pods ? I thought that the 2ndaries could start opening latest at 4000 RPM , may be earlier ?
I hate to admit this but, I tried my own suggestion on the end carbs on my engine and a spare set of 3 carbs I have and none hold vacuum using a mityvac. This is going to require some more research. If any of you have tri powers, let us know if your end carbs hold vacuum. The ones on my car were rebuilt 3 years ago.
Me too. I totally forgot about that bleed hole. The pods only hold a vac when you put a vacuum directly on the pod when it's detached from the carb. My bad.
Is it possible to find the bleed hole of the pod inside the carb intake and hold it closed with a finger or is the hole not accessible from there ?
Brgds Günther
If you look at the carb casting behind the hose nipple you can see a cast in "tube" on the outside of the carb body. This leads to the vac port on the inside of the carb. None of my fingers will fit inside the carb between the booster and the casting. If you really do not want to pull the pod off, maybe you can clean the port area (carb cleaner, brakleen, lacquer thinner) with a cotton swab and coax a piece of scotch tape down in there (with a toothbrush handle?) and cover the hole temporarily for the test. I'd give it a shot.