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When the pax door closes on this '73, there is play in the latch that causes the flush, perfectly gapped door to come out about 3/8" and look completely unsatisfactory. Window up or down, doesn't matter: door comes out to rest there in a latched condition. Thought a new latch would fix this, but it doesn't; it has play in it as well and lets the door come out a tad just like the old latch.
I've seen the threads on building up the body to match the door and make a good looking gap. To me, that's a ridiculous fix here. Barring a wreck, it came off the line with door & body looking flush, so it should be adjusted to what it was then.
Has anyone here looked into repairing/modifying the latch, in order to remove this play?
The striker stud the latch grabs onto is adjustable (somewhat), to where the door rests when latched (against the seals etc)
Is that what you're after or am I not following which way your door is off?
M
Like Mooser says, its the Striker Bolt. Those C3 doors are long, heavy and want to sag at the latch end. The Striker Bolt moves up-down-in-out and as you saw, it takes an allen wrench. If you can't loosen it with the wrench, NAPA has Allen sockets, maybe 3/8 drive. That way you can get some leverage on the bolt with a decent ratchet.
Before you move your Striker bolt, outline it with a pencil so you have a starting reference point.
And sometimes the sloppy hinge pins can make the latch end of the door wonky.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 28, 2018 at 07:25 PM.
Be careful, IIRC the door moves ever so slightly IN when it opens to release the latch, if you move the striker too far it won't want to release, move it a little at a time and remember it will also affect up and down (remember the old days when you had to lift the doors on your winter beaters to get them to close because the hinge bushing were worn right the hell out )
The striker stud the latch grabs onto is adjustable (somewhat), to where the door rests when latched (against the seals etc)
Is that what you're after or am I not following which way your door is off?
M
You're reading me right Mooser. AAMOF, I Dremmel'ed out a bit of the Striker's square access hole the sliding Anchor Plate moves behind (and I HATED to do THAT! ), to get as much inward positioning of the Striker in order to draw the door more inward. Alas, I cannot go any more inward, as the Anchor Plate is held inside the body sill with a bracket that won't let the Anchor Plate move anymore inward.
Still not enough.
OK stupid question time, I seem to remember (questionable these days) the door latches have 2 steps, partially closed but latched and then fully closed, any chance you're too far in already and it's only on the first step and won't let it go fully closed?
And sometimes the sloppy hinge pins can make the latch end of the door wonky.
Thanks HeadsU.P.
I replaced them about 2 years ago, all around, and the pax door never started to look bad until about 6 months ago. Usually bad things show up when I start "improving, or replacing" a part, and THEN a new problem shows up shortly afterward. I'll check those pins. THANKS!
OK stupid question time, I seem to remember (questionable these days) the door latches have 2 steps, partially closed but latched and then fully closed, any chance you're too far in already and it's only on the first step and won't let it go fully closed?
Ya know what M? I'd rather say you are brilliant than me being stupid, but both apply here. Adjusted the striker outward, and that's all it needed.
Is the Door Ajar engineering of vehicle latches design to be a safety feature, letting people know the door in not shut completely?
Anyway, problem solved.
And THANKS M for turning on the light bulb, no matter how dim it shines.