Manifold Pressure at WOT?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Manifold Pressure at WOT?
Looking for input from folks who either have seen or recorded the manifold pressure at WOT. I recently had the car on a dyno and also hooked up a MAP sensor to me LM-1 data logger.
I noticed during a dyno run at WOT my manifold vacuum was about 3 to 4"hg of vacuum. I know when people talk about WOT it is always said one should be near 0" of vacuum. Maybe in a perfect world but I wonder what is typical with these engines. My vacuum climbed to near 5" on the 6500 rpm run. The car was originally tested with a 950 cfm carb. I swapped to a 830 body with annular boosters. The cars street manners have improved and feels more responsive down low. I am thinking about running the car with the 950 carb to see if there is a meaning difference in the numbers.
I noticed during a dyno run at WOT my manifold vacuum was about 3 to 4"hg of vacuum. I know when people talk about WOT it is always said one should be near 0" of vacuum. Maybe in a perfect world but I wonder what is typical with these engines. My vacuum climbed to near 5" on the 6500 rpm run. The car was originally tested with a 950 cfm carb. I swapped to a 830 body with annular boosters. The cars street manners have improved and feels more responsive down low. I am thinking about running the car with the 950 carb to see if there is a meaning difference in the numbers.
Last edited by KJL; 03-11-2018 at 02:17 PM.
#2
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For peak power, we shoot for about .5" Hg at WOT. More vacuum than that, such as your 3-4", indicates restriction on the inlet side, such as an undersized carb or restrictions in inlet airflow. Here is an example of a pretty good dyno test on an engine I ran recently. Note the "Man Vac" column:
Lars
Lars
Last edited by lars; 03-11-2018 at 02:38 PM.
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#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks Lars!! I will run it next week with the 950 and a freshly cleaned K&N filter and see what she does.
#4
Safety Car
Adding a bit of relevant math to the discussion, IIRC, the "CFM" rating of a carb is at a vacuum level in the manifold of 1.5" Hg for 4 barrel carbs, and 3" Hg for 2 barrel carbs.
And somewhere in the back of my mind, theres a memory (perhaps inaccurate) that a 350CID engine draws approximately RPM/10 CFM at 100% volumetric efficiency.
And somewhere in the back of my mind, theres a memory (perhaps inaccurate) that a 350CID engine draws approximately RPM/10 CFM at 100% volumetric efficiency.
#5
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I just pasted in a dyno printout in my post above of a run we did recently. Note the manifold pressure column.
With an air cleaner in place you might not get into the .5" range. We run our dyno tests with a bell-mouth inlet and no air cleaner.
Lars
Lars
Last edited by lars; 03-11-2018 at 02:46 PM.
#7
Melting Slicks
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#8
Melting Slicks
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Thanks for the data. I am surprised to see how low. I know I am probably splitting hairs here but I have an opportunity to learn something and share with others regarding these large displacement small blocks. I am also running 34 degree advance and would like to try 36 in a separate run.
#9
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If you have good heads, you will see power drop at 36 degrees. Good aftermarket heads on a big-cube small block will produce best power at 32 - 34 degrees total. (My experience testing 420 - 427 small blocks with aftermarket aluminum and iron heads)
Lars
Lars
Last edited by lars; 03-12-2018 at 11:21 AM.
#10
Melting Slicks
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Thanks!
#11
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I like keeping the IFRs in the carb "square" so all 4 corners have the same idle metering characteristics.
Lars
Lars
#12
Team Owner
This is just an alternative thought to increasing inches of vacuum as rpm's rise. You stated up to 5 @6500.
annular boosters are a restriction to flow compared to a down leg booster. The restriction rises with air flow (rpm ) on a flow bench it can record say 18 less cfm at lower flow and higher than 60 cfm on the top end
a cheaper alternative might be down leg boosters right now I'm running down leg on my 830 demon. I drove around with a big vacuum gauge duct taped to the windshield. I'm pro annular boosters for every day driving. How about 950 or 1000 cfm with the annulars
annular boosters are a restriction to flow compared to a down leg booster. The restriction rises with air flow (rpm ) on a flow bench it can record say 18 less cfm at lower flow and higher than 60 cfm on the top end
a cheaper alternative might be down leg boosters right now I'm running down leg on my 830 demon. I drove around with a big vacuum gauge duct taped to the windshield. I'm pro annular boosters for every day driving. How about 950 or 1000 cfm with the annulars
#13
Dr. Detroit
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Annular vs. Downleg has zero to do with vacuum at WOT if the carbs for both types are properly sized for the application.
Generally I have watched most annular stuff go pig fat past the power peak because vacuum will return......but this is going off track.
.5 is the number......WOT.
Jebby
Generally I have watched most annular stuff go pig fat past the power peak because vacuum will return......but this is going off track.
.5 is the number......WOT.
Jebby
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#14
Team Owner
Annular vs. Downleg has zero to do with vacuum at WOT if the carbs for both types are properly sized for the application.
Generally I have watched most annular stuff go pig fat past the power peak because vacuum will return......but this is going off track.
.5 is the number......WOT.
Jebby
Generally I have watched most annular stuff go pig fat past the power peak because vacuum will return......but this is going off track.
.5 is the number......WOT.
Jebby
#15
Dr. Detroit
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#16
Melting Slicks
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#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I would love love to try a 1000 cfm dominator for the heck of it. Likely much to big for street use.
#18
Team Owner
I'm not a fan of secondary metering blocks with a power valve
#20
Safety Car
You have a 700 hp small block........a 1000 cfm is not too big for it. A dominator can be tuned for the street, but a 1000 cfm 4150 carb would work very well. I have a ProSystems 1000 on mine and it works very well. Correct tuning is all you need.