Hi, My right rear wheel bearing in my 75 is going out. Would anyone know about the pullers Ill need to pull it all apart with? Or suggestions on where best to have it rebuilt?

 

Not something I would suggest doing yourself. Many of the Corvette vendors here will exchange them. Bairs did mine almost 15 years ago and they're still going strong.

 

Bair's here also.

 

If you are going to do the job correctly... you'll need the following:

1) Knocker tool or spindle press... The knocker tool has a huge success rate, but when the bearings are froze to spindle you'll need the bearing press. When they are froze, you load the press... and if it sticks you smack the spindle with a hammer which will in most cases free the bearing.

2) Bench press and a bearing splitter. This will remove the inner bearing from the spindle. Do not attempt to press the spindle out on a bench press, you'll damage the caliper mounting bracket.

3) pre-alignment tool... This is used for setting up the clearance on the bearings before you install. We try to set them between 3 and 4 thousandths.

4) Magnetic dial indicator for checking the bearing clearance. We don't use magnetic here because we have fabricated an indicator that will mount to the caliper mounting bracket.. it's a bit more accurate... but for home use the magnetic will do just fine.

5) Bearing puller tool.. once you have the clearance set up, then you use this tool to pull all the items together..

Hope this answers your questions and if you need links to the tools they are on our site, I'd be happy to post them for you. (and you can use the coupon codes on them)

Willcox

 

yup
very hard job even with tools.
hard being getting the original out.
then the tools ain't cheap
good luck

 

My advice on this is to buy the knocker tool... Knock the thing apart, clean all the parts and then send them to us... The knocker tool is cheap, you can do the clean up on the parts yourself... and then send the cleaned parts to us for setup... This job (on set up) is time and material vs.. a complete rebuild.

One note I'll add.. is that you wouldn't believe how many trailing arms we receive where the customer took it to a shop and they tried to press the spindle out of the arm from the caliper mounting bracket.... We get these arms in with broken brackets and/or bent brackets. The caliper mounting bracket is not something that can handle the pressure required to remove the spindle, but in-experienced shops won't know this.

Willcox..

 

How many miles can you go before you rebuild these? Front and rear?

 

I have taught and coached guys around the world on how to rebuild rear bearings. Can you do it at home? all depends on

1- Tools- basic hand tools, 0-1" GOOD Quality indicator and mag base, Bearing setup tool or old axle can be modified to work, press 12-20 ton HF imported will work.
2 - Parts- Nothing special about these bearings- any bearing house can get them - use Timkens over cheaper ones. Any vendor will have the parts, quality varies on such parts as the front bushings, SS parking brakes, seals. Go cheap and you will do them again.
3- Machine access, while access to a surface grinder isn't 100% needed it's the best way to dial in the shims. Everyone throws out the 002 endplay spec and has for years, even those who have never rebuilt a TA will tell you that. In reality that 002 endplay on a setup tool can open to 006 in final if the shim setup is not correct.
4- Just about every arm I take apart can I use nothing but the knocker tool and 4 lb or 5 lb mini sledge. You will need to remove the outer bearing with a bearing splitter or by carefully cutting it off. I have the special splitter made for them but those around the world used what they had access to.
5- Lastly- patience and knowledge. I can supply the knowledge, do you have the patience to do the job correctly?

If you can meet the above I can teach you to build them and they will be very well built.

 

There is very little on my car that I don't do myself. I have done the rear wheel bearings, but to be honest, if I knew then what I know now, I would send them to someone who does them all the time. I feel obligated to do them myself now because I have the tools. If it weren't for that, I probably wouldn't. They're challenging when everything comes apart well. When it doesn't, its a major PITA.

 

I have about 100,000 miles on mine.

 

I understand what you're saying, but don't you think that the time factor might also play into this? I would think that after a number of years, grease will dry out, somewhat, and lose it's lubricity.

 

I was asking because I am changing out my suspension to Global West and my 1980 car only has 30000 miles on it. The bearings feel great but wanted to know if there was a time or mileage factor to consider. Any input appreciated. Dennis

 

I would get new bearings while it is apart. I think I paid $200 for each side to replace bearings, it included new dust shields and wheel studs. Got it done from Van Steele with a lifetime warranty. I did the arm bushings myself.

 

The original grease used in 1980 is not as good as the greases today. It was a pasty grease and oftern dried out. You won't know unless you take them apart, if you do that then you end up rebuilding them anyway.

I have taken apart 30-40 year old arms out of one owner cars that appeared new. There was no bearing play, roughness or noise. The arms were prestine, no rust at all, and once they were apart there was no grease left on the bearings. Two such builds come to mind and were stored inside since new with little miles on them. If the new owners didn't go through them they would have overheated and locked up for sure. So mileage isn't always a factor. Another one from CA was also perfect appearing but the car was left on grass a couple of years, the bearing rollers were rust seized to the race, even with grease around them.

 

Good points on the grease. I like to go on road trips and a seized up rear bearing is not something you're going to get fixed quickly and back on your way. More likely a load on the truck and find another way home type situation so if there's any question about it I would do it on my own terms. One of the very Corvette specific parts on these relics that you don't want to fail!

 

Do you send the complete arm in to have rebuilt or just the part that bolts to the arm. Can't send them to VanSteel if they are Global West arms. Gary, are you in the business of rebuilding arms or just do this for friends? I do not have it all apart yet. Dennis

 

Complete arm.

 

Dennis
I am here to offer tech advice , teach, and answer questions if I can. I am on many corvette online forums on the WWW and get contacted from all avenues BUT I do not solicite work from this site. In respect to your arms if you have questions I would be glad to offer you any advice I can to help you. You can post them here or contact me directly. Any rebuilder can replace the bearings, the process and parts are the same for GW arms- they use the same bearing supports.

 

You just unbolt the wheel bearing assembly from the arms and send that in.

 

Thanks everyone, your advice led me to exchanging the wheel bearing assembly at Ikerd's Corvette. Theyre shop is local so I picked one up and I'm back on the road.