When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I put on the vacuum booster and it was better but not great. They work, but you have to get FAR into the pedal for them to go. I KNOW there is no air in the system. (I bled them, a mechanic I trust bled them, I think God himself even bled them). I called and talked to Wilwood AGAIN and the guy said (seems more knowledgeable than the last guy I talked to) that the 1" bore Master Cyl they told me to go with before will NOT move enough fluid for those brakes.
So now my plan is to buy the 1 1/8" bore, take out the pump AND the booster, rebuild the front and middle brake lines and convert to manual.
I put on the vacuum booster and it was better but not great. They work, but you have to get FAR into the pedal for them to go. I KNOW there is no air in the system. (I bled them, a mechanic I trust bled them, I think God himself even bled them). I called and talked to Wilwood AGAIN and the guy said (seems more knowledgeable than the last guy I talked to) that the 1" bore Master Cyl they told me to go with before will NOT move enough fluid for those brakes.
So now my plan is to buy the 1 1/8" bore, take out the pump AND the booster, rebuild the front and middle brake lines and convert to manual.
Thoughts?
You have power brakes, right?......if so, the 1 1/8" bore MC is mandatory. (Stock equipped). The smaller 1" bore is for manual brakes.
Where do you get the tubular trans crossmember from and does it bolt to the original spot.
I ended up staying with my stock one because I didn't need any changes.
Further up in the thread there is a link from ajrothm for the cross member.
Let me see if I can find it.
Brakes - After fighting the brake booster for a long time, I violently pulled it and the vacuum pump out of the car. I moved the master cylinder plunger rod up to the upper hole on the brake pedal and raised the MC when installing it onto the firewall. I now have manual brakes. They work so much better. Yes it does take more force to stop, but they work like they are supposed to now. Much happier.
Steering - I put in the Steeroids Rack and Pinion. Super easy to install. No cutting or welding. It fit fine with my Hedman headers (thank goodness). It was a bit of a challenge doing it alone but I managed it. I also put in 3 shims into my power steering pump to reduce the pressure to 850psi so the steering was not over assisted. It is so much better now! I love it.
Brakes - After fighting the brake booster for a long time, I violently pulled it and the vacuum pump out of the car. I moved the master cylinder plunger rod up to the upper hole on the brake pedal and raised the MC when installing it onto the firewall. I now have manual brakes. They work so much better. Yes it does take more force to stop, but they work like they are supposed to now. Much happier.
Steering - I put in the Steeroids Rack and Pinion. Super easy to install. No cutting or welding. It fit fine with my Hedman headers (thank goodness). It was a bit of a challenge doing it alone but I managed it. I also put in 3 shims into my power steering pump to reduce the pressure to 850psi so the steering was not over assisted. It is so much better now! I love it.
I highly recommend the steering!!!!
Thanks Scott. Which Hedman headers ? And shims on the PS pump ? Any pics of that
I didn't take any pictures. sorry.
Basically you take the nut from the high pressure line attachment off, use a magnet to pull the valve out, unscrew the end, add 2 shims, and then put it back together. SO much better.
Here is the power steering kit I used. It has good instructions with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't take any pictures. sorry.
Basically you take the nut from the high pressure line attachment off, use a magnet to pull the valve out, unscrew the end, add 2 shims, and then put it back together. SO much better.
Thanks for the idea on Hydraboost. I had not looked into that but I want to now.
Since the thread on it was 11 years old, is there a best place to get the system from?
I found this place. Looks like a very complete kit.
Thanks for the idea on Hydraboost. I had not looked into that but I want to now.
Since the thread on it was 11 years old, is there a best place to get the system from?
I found this place. Looks like a very complete kit.
Hydratech capitalized on the popularity of the hydroboost mod for the C3 and came up with this package.
Notice that the one showed is for 1977-82. And another for the 1968-76.
Do a search here in forum and you will find many DIY versions.
DurangoBoy is not on here anymore but may be over on Digital Corvette.
I picked up 2 units complete except for the custom lines which I'll do for my setup once I am ready.
Got one from Matt (DB) and one from another member.
Installation instructions are saved somewhere on my computer if you want them.
Go for it....
Last edited by bmans vette; 05-22-2019 at 06:12 PM.
Thanks for the idea on Hydraboost. I had not looked into that but I want to now.
Since the thread on it was 11 years old, is there a best place to get the system from?
I found this place. Looks like a very complete kit.
OM gosh $600 seems like a lot. Any 3/4 ton Chevy truck or van in the junkyard will have what you need. Make a few lines, install and enjoy power brakes without vacuum.
Over the weekend I had a big project. I still wasn't happy with the feel of the suspension, so I decided to put on tubular control arms. I went with the Global West arms after talking to the company and doing some research on different options.
I had a list of items I wanted to do while I had things torn apart, so I took a three day weekend and did it.
Some things of note when going to tubular control arms (I think most of them are fairly similar in these ways):
1. Most of them have a big assed nut on the ends of the shaft that bolts it to the frame. The upper will interfere with your electric fan shroud depending on what you have. I had to pull the radiator and notch the shroud. The lower may hit your front sway bar. Keep an eye out.
2. It will probably change your ride height. For me this was no big issue since I have adjustable Viking shocks. But if I still had the stock setup I would be ordering new coil springs. Mine sits > 1 inch lower.
3. You don't have to completely remove your calipers. Just take them off and hang them with a zip tie with a block between the pads.
Here is a picture of the old and new side by side.
While I was under the car, I had ordered new bushings for the rear strut rods because I realized I had forgotten to do those originally.
Here is the old and new. I guess the old ones were pretty warn.
Finally, the stance with the new control arms. I'm very happy.
Final word on the changes is "OH MY GOD WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!"
It is so much smoother. The steering finally feels like I wanted it to and it sucks up the roadway way better now. I wish I had done this originally.
Now to go get an alignment............................
01-04-2019, 03:26 PM
