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Points to TI conversion - validate my thinking

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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 09:24 AM
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Default Points to TI conversion - validate my thinking

The previous owner of my 1971 LT-1 had installed a points ignition at some point in the post, mostly likely due to a faulty amp. I'm getting my ducks in a row to get the original TI system working and would like some assistance to validate my thinking. The TI harness is still in the vehicle.

Here's how things appear to be wired CURRENTLY:
  • Braided white wire from TI running through firewall to pink ignition wire.
  • Braided white wire from TI running to ballast resistor -> black wire to positive side of coil.
  • Additional red wire from positive side of coil to starter solenoid (checked via continuity).

Here's a picture of the current wiring:



For the TI system, here's how I BELIEVE things should be wired (see pic below for reference):
  • Braided white wire from TI (#4) running through firewall to pink ignition wire. LEAVE AS-IS.
  • Braided white wire from TI (#3) running to positive side of coil.
  • TI amp harness (#5) plugged to TI distributor harness.
  • Pink "pigtail" (#2) from TI amp harness to red wire (#?) running to starter solenoid.




Things that are creating doubts in my mind:
  • Reading many other posts on this subject, it sounds like there should be a YELLOW wire coming from the engine harness. I don't know if I have this wire (unless it's in the harness and I need to pull the tape back to find it).
  • The AIM talks about modifications that were made coming down the assembly-line. Specifically, there is an note that states to "Remove Engine Wiring Harness positive lead from Coil, remove existing terminal from lead, attach terminal [12] to yellow wire." There is also a note that says to "Remove 12 Ga pink wire from ign sw connector and insert term in ign sw cavity." I'm not sure how to interpret either of these for my situation.

Any input or advice is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 09:30 AM
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have you seen this diagram?
https://www.tispecialty.com/articles/66-71diagram.htm
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Yes, I have. What's confusing me is the fact that it's showing a white resistor wire coming off the pink side of the TI amp harness which is supposed to lead back to a 12 Ga wire from the ignition. My current setup DOES have one of the white wires from the amp-side of the TI harness going to the ignition, but a continuity check from the ignition wire back to the pink wire on the amp-side of the TI harness shoes an open.


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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 12:37 PM
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The Yellow wire isn't a total necessity, it's there to provide a hotter spark during cranking. Mine wasn't connected at first when I changed mine back to TI (PO had MSD Dist. etc. installed originally). The Car started and ran fine.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 12:41 PM
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Sorry, missed the Ign. sw cavity question. If your car had factory/dealer installed TI, then it already should have the correct wires running to the firewall cavity.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by redbarchetta74
Yes, I have. What's confusing me is the fact that it's showing a white resistor wire coming off the pink side of the TI amp harness which is supposed to lead back to a 12 Ga wire from the ignition. My current setup DOES have one of the white wires from the amp-side of the TI harness going to the ignition, but a continuity check from the ignition wire back to the pink wire on the amp-side of the TI harness shoes an open.


I'm pretty sure I metered the connector you are pointing the question mark at and it should be 9ish volts when ignition key is in run position and full battery voltage while cranking if the yellow wire is connected as shown. (if no yellow 9ish run or cranking)
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 12:49 PM
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I'm assuming you have the correct TI Coil?
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by suprspooky
I'm assuming you have the correct TI Coil?
Yes - sitting on the shelf. Want to make sure I full understand how to re-work what I currently have before doing anything.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 10:11 PM
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The yellow wire is often faded to appear white. Considering the trouble of converting back to TI I would personally opt for a new TI harness for your car along with the new K & B amp. You will save a ton of time and limit frustration chasing electrical gremlins. K66 ignitions are sensitive to quality grounding points.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LT3
The yellow wire is often faded to appear white. Considering the trouble of converting back to TI I would personally opt for a new TI harness for your car along with the new K & B amp. You will save a ton of time and limit frustration chasing electrical gremlins. K66 ignitions are sensitive to quality grounding points.
I think that makes good sense. I performed some continuity tests on the harness yesterday, and determined that black (ground) and gray were the only two that passed. Also, the white resistance wire appears to be looped back on itself in the harness (confirmed a closed loop on continuity test), and it doesn't appear that it should be configured this way according to the schematic. I'll play it safe and track down a source for a good harness.
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