Had new front coils (550) and rear composite spring (355) in addition to Bilstein shocks professionally installed by a reputable shop. I also went to 17" wheels with the same diameter tires as the original 15". They also replaced all power steering components with new, not rebuilt components. Shop owner drove the car and said it drove fine. He took it to an alignment shop he said he has used because they do great work. Not this time however, apparently some new kid. Both the control valve and cylinder had blown seals as a result of turning the wheels back and forth on the rack without the engine running pumping fluid. Is this correct? Shop owner was pretty pissed, cost him several hours and two new components to make right. In addition to that, where the steering wheel was exactly centered before, it's now cocked about two inches to the left.

Now on to my next question. My car now has some very pronounced oversteer where there was none before. Crappy alignment? Springs?
Wheels and tires? Car did not have the factory Gymkhana suspension so stock front and rear sway bars. Suspension was gone through several years ago.

I'm thinking the first place to start is the alignment?

I found these specs for stock, street and track set ups.

What say you experts?
Front 63-82 Corvette
Daily Driver Advanced Street Autocross Baseline Track Baseline
Toe 1/32″ 0″ 3/16″ out 0-1/16″ out
Camber 0° neg .25° neg 1.5-2° neg 1-2° neg
Caster 2.75° pos 2.75° pos 2.75° pos 2.75° pos
Caster (With Offset A-Arms) 4.75° pos 4.75° pos 4-4.75° pos 4-4.75° pos
Rear 63-82 Corvette
Daily Driver Advanced Street Autocross Baseline Track Baseline
Toe 1/8″ in 1/8″ in 1/8″ – 1/4″ in 1/8″ – 1/4″ in
Camber 0° neg .50° neg .75-1.5° neg .75-1.5° neg

Didn't copy exactly right but I think you can decipher it.

Why can't people do things right the first time?

Taking it back this week for the new parts to be installed and a new alignment.

Sorry for the long post, thanks for your advice.

 

I can't see the leaks being caused by turning the wheels without the power assist, but I could be wrong on that.

The steering wheel not centered is 100% on the alignment. It may be correct as far as the numbers go, but it's easy to adjust the tie rods for toe in/out and get the steering wheel off center if you're not paying attention.

 

the shop doing the alignment has to be told to start the engine when centering the steering wheel otherwise you end up with your wheel not being centered. You also should request a readout of the before and after alignments results.

 

I just checked the camber with a level on all four wheels. Fronts seem to be OK but rears don't match by a good 3/8". Good grief

Anybody have any thoughts on the oversteer issue? Crappy alignment or something else?

 

you need to know what the caster and toe in was used to align the car

 

Sorry But the leaks have nothing to do with running with out fluid flowing from the pump. I do my own alignments and move the steering back and forth many times, and yet never created a problem with the control valve.

As for the wheel off center can be from a few setup problems.

This is how I do the setup.

1. Disconnect both outer tie rods.
2. Set the wheels for 0 toe in.
3. Center the steering wheel.
4. Re-connect the tie rods. Turing in the tie rods equal amount on both sides. (both inner and out tie rods equal)

Then apply the final alignment to set toe.

As for the specs. The street setup is good for most driving. Best tire wear.

 

After the new parts get installed, we'll do a whole new alignment.

I've done a search for alignment specs and apparently the stock specs are not the best for handling?

This is the source where I copied the specs in my first post. Anybody have any thoughts about it?

https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...ignment-specs/

 

looks like the same specs from VBP and they are commonly used

https://www.vbandp.com/installation-...pecs/file.html

 

thanks

 

Rear camber is the easiest thing to set yourself but I've never seen it measured in inches.

 

Just a quick way to see if they matched up, which they don't, by plumb. I know the correct measurement is in degrees

 

Gotcha. That's about 1 1/4 degrees difference. Alignment tech would have to be blind not to see that by eye when he took it off the rack. Even 1/2 degree is pretty obvious by eye.

 

At the top of this post you call the shop "reputable". Do they have experience with C3 generation Corvettes? So far it is obvious the alignment shop does not.

 

The repair shop has C3 experience, they had the correct tool to remove the rear spring. They have done several TKO and LS swaps, also. The alignment shop is one he has used and trusted before. Apparently the alignment shop hired some new kid and turned him loose. The repair shop owner is not happy about it.....and neither am I.

 

Never heard of a rear spring removal tool. Other than a c-clamp, block of wood, jack, and a wrench.

 

Perhaps that's what he meant, then He did say he had a special compression tool, though. And could be used on later generations as well. I don't know

Some things I feel comfortable tackling, that was not one of them.

 

Dennis
Did they touch the box?

 

Gary,
That was a huge concern, I told them in no uncertain terms, do not screw with the box and I really don't think they did, with the exception of the oversteer the car steers as before. I'm certainly going to ask that question when I talk to the shop owner tomorrow, however. Hopefully it was just some ham fisted millennial who doesn't even know what a steering box is.
I actually am sympathetic to the shop owner, he does good work but unfortunately has to rely on some third party for a service over which he has no control. Believe me, he is plenty peeved.

 

I would suggest disconnecting or removing the rear sway bar also. At least try it.