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Rear tire grab

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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 12:35 PM
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Default Rear tire grab

Newest issue my left rear tire kinda grabs at times most of the time during a left turn. Fluid is fresh with additive. One of the deals where it doesn't do it always. While I'm checking for movement on jack anything else I should check?
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 02:13 PM
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How many miles since the new fluid?
I've found that sometimes it takes about 100 hundred miles to get the clutch pack soaked properly to stop the grabbing feel.
Greg
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 02:17 PM
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what fluid did you use?
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 05:39 PM
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Some times it takes an empty parking lot doing some figure 8's to get the fluid into the posi packs. If that does not do it, add 1 more GM posi additive and repeat the figure 8's
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 06:20 PM
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About 4 to 5 hundred miles and I did use the GM additive I forget which gear oil I chose. Today I took another spin. Did good till I went up into the garage and backed back out. Could I be feeling the effects of a brake rotor with to much runout? When I had a stuck caliper on the front I checked rotor thickness and it was right at minimum.
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 08:27 PM
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I would have a look at the park brake mechanism on that side. That might be what's grabbing.
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 10:14 PM
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I agree with drwet, if you put in the GM posi lube and you've got 4 or 5 hundred miles on it your clutch packs should be OK, I'd look elsewhere.
I would guess "No" on the rotor run out being the issue. These cars have pretty beefy iron there.
The e brake is probably your suspect now.
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 10:42 PM
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You may be able to use an IR temperature gun on the rotor/drum. Find a parking lot where you can cause the wheel to grab often. Check the temp of the passenger E brake drum/then the driver drum to see if there is a big difference after it grabs a few times. Check the half shaft U joints for heat/slack also on the driver rear wheel.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 03:52 PM
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This is what I'm seeing. I had to make three crank to get it lose. I expected to see something more obvious.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 04:01 PM
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did you use synthetic gear oil?
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Old May 2, 2018 | 04:11 PM
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I don't believe.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 04:40 PM
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I used what the manual called for . So I doubt syn.

Last edited by croaker; May 2, 2018 at 05:59 PM.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 04:42 PM
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I noticed today when I took a spin I was good till I made a hard left. Then it started. Seems to be just on left side.

Last edited by croaker; May 2, 2018 at 04:43 PM.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 06:34 PM
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The parking shoe is out past the flange, the springs are most likely broken.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the input Gary. I'm pulling the shoes next days off. How much of a issue is not marking the rotor when I took it off. Was on my mind but I started tapping on it and off it came.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by croaker
Thanks for the input Gary. I'm pulling the shoes next days off. How much of a issue is not marking the rotor when I took it off. Was on my mind but I started tapping on it and off it came.
The rear rotors have shoe adjusting holes that line up in the flange hole so you can reference that when installing. I assume you drilled out the rivets so that means if you remove or grind down the bodies flush and deburr the inside of the rotor hat around the holes it should go back to where it was or pretty close, now were they under 005"?

I would check them once you get them assembled.

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Old May 3, 2018 | 06:37 AM
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What are you referring to 005? Yes I did drill them and so far I have 3 of the body out. I still have to retrieve 2.
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Old May 3, 2018 | 07:56 AM
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Rotor runout should be under 005" I set mine to under 003"

Last edited by GTR1999; May 3, 2018 at 07:57 AM.
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Old May 3, 2018 | 06:49 PM
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Thanks Gary
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Old May 3, 2018 | 07:12 PM
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What gear oil do you guys recommend?
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