Tie Rod Stud Spins
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 948
From: Wauconda IL
Tie Rod Stud Spins
Replacing tie rods on my C3. Naturally, the last one I'm tightening (the LH inner, next to the p/s cylinder) the stud turns as I'm tightening it. Cleaned the center steering rod hole, roughed up the hole and the stud
with a burgandy scuff pad, cleaned threads with a thread die, hit it with a pneumatic hammer, did the pry bar thing. I get it as finger tight as possible, then I can use about a half dozen wrench turns before the stud starts turning with the nut. Any ideas? I'm starting to suspect I have a defective inner tie rod.
with a burgandy scuff pad, cleaned threads with a thread die, hit it with a pneumatic hammer, did the pry bar thing. I get it as finger tight as possible, then I can use about a half dozen wrench turns before the stud starts turning with the nut. Any ideas? I'm starting to suspect I have a defective inner tie rod.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 121
Likes: 38
From: Billerica Massachusetts
Hi Sunflower 1972, I am sure that is frustrating. Couple questions, when the nut is tight does the taper of the tie rod end feel loose in the relay rod hole? That is to say is it pulled up into the taper all the way? Very rare but I have seen the taper on a tie rod end not match the boss taper it fits into( bad tie rod end). Also, is it possible there is too much of the tie rod end stud coming through the boss in the relay rod so you are essentially bottoming out on the threads but have not pulled the pin into the boss all the way? Unfortunately that's all I got.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,333
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Assuming the taper isn't screwed up...
If you have a set of welding vice-grip pliers you can usually span the joint with them while leaving the nut exposed, putting some pressure on with the pliers to set the taper and you should be able to tighten the nut etc.
If you don't have a set of those, try to stack a few washers onto the stud and tighten the nut up where the threads are looser near the end of the stud, that should pull it in enough to set the taper, remove the washer and then go ahead as normal
Easier on the outer tie-rods where you can bring a jack up under them to apply some pressure but not where you are.
HIH
M
If you have a set of welding vice-grip pliers you can usually span the joint with them while leaving the nut exposed, putting some pressure on with the pliers to set the taper and you should be able to tighten the nut etc.
If you don't have a set of those, try to stack a few washers onto the stud and tighten the nut up where the threads are looser near the end of the stud, that should pull it in enough to set the taper, remove the washer and then go ahead as normal
Easier on the outer tie-rods where you can bring a jack up under them to apply some pressure but not where you are.
HIH
M
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
Or several washers and see if it pulls the taper tight. Then remove washers and tighten correctly. Also, grab taper with vise grips and run the nut all the way on. Probably a burr on the thread you hafta chase.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I say run a tap thru the nut- could be one of the ears on the castle nut is "tweaked" and not lining up causing it to act like a deformed locknut.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 948
From: Wauconda IL
It seems to me the taper in the stud portion was mis-machined.
Unfortunately, it doesn't match the other 3. But the car is not NCRS so at this point in time, with beating my brains out on the defective tie rod, I DON'T CARE.
Thanks to everyone who replied. You were all very helpfull!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 948
From: Wauconda IL