Distributor shaft bushings
About 2 years ago I had a local engine shop press new shaft bushings into my distributor. He decided the top pushing was in good condition and did not replace it. So he only replaced the bottom bushing. I remove the distributor yesterday and disassembled it to check its condition. The bottom bushing has failed and is out of alignment, you can see that it chewed up the bottom of the shaft. It is noticeable that the bottom bushing has become oblong and wore excessively on one side. The upper bushing still appears to be in very good condition based on the upper shaft. I don't know what went wrong but I'm going to buy new bushings and a new shaft and start over.
1. Can anyone explain what went wrong?
2. Can shaft replacements be done without high tech machine shop equipment?
3. How do I go about removing and pressing in new bushings in a square manner?
See pictures below
Rick





When a bushing like this is installed.......it really should have a ream run through it afterward to confirm concentricity.
The clue to this being out of round is that it is burnished on one half only......that half would have been tight.
Have a machine shop that does many different things give it a shot next time rather than an engine machine shop......
There are some brilliant guys out there who do not care what the part is....they care about the art of machining....that is the guy you want.
Jebby
I will try a machine shop as you suggest, I have one in mind that may help with the reaming portion. I guess it's fair to say if I just install new bushings I may end up in the same place. I will keep looking for a bushing removal and install method, I think I remember reading something somewhere.
Rick
I will try a machine shop as you suggest, I have one in mind that may help with the reaming portion. I guess it's fair to say if I just install new bushings I may end up in the same place. I will keep looking for a bushing removal and install method, I think I remember reading something somewhere.
Rick
Buy a new upper bushing and have it cut down, it gives more surface area. Removing and installing is a snap. Align reaming is the key.
Keep in mind, about 1 in 10 housings had core shift in the casting. Nothing solves this well.
I snapped nothing happen, I'll keep looking.

I bet. Any one know what the tolerance should be between the bushings and shaft so I can pass that on to the machinist?
Rick
Make a slot in the lower oil galley boss about .005" deep to spray on the gears, which will help splash up to the bushing.
Last edited by Big2Bird; May 8, 2018 at 08:08 AM.
Rick
Rick
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
There is another issue that in all my years I've only seen three times...
(twice in one year, which I thought was odd).
Dave Fielder turned me onto this years ago and I believe he's published a paper on this and possibly that's where I saw it... I don't remember and I can't find it (you might check out his articles on his website and I'll keep looking too)...
A small fraction of the factory distributors were not bored inline correctly so it won't matter how many bushings you put in the car it'll still flub up.
Willcox
Edit: Here is what Dave posted about the issue above.
"Main shaft centerline to tach drive gear centerline problem- This is not a wear problem, but it is a condition that exists in an estimated ten percent of tach drive distributor housings. The problem is that the centerlines were machined too closely by Delco, causing abnormal wear between the main shaft gear and the tach drive gear."
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 7, 2018 at 01:22 PM.













