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I have a chrome-plated Delco 10DN alternator I removed from my 68 convert about a year ago when the rear bearing failed. It's been sitting on my bench waiting for me to get off my butt, rebuild it and take off the plain Jane alternator that is on the car now. Quick Start Automotive Electric has a thicker stator for the 10DN that upgrades the output from 63 amps to 105 amps. They claim it fits. Has anyone used this for a rebuild? Does it fit?
They also have another stator not quite ready for sale yet that upgrades to 140 amps. Maybe if I continue to be lazy, that one will be available and I'll get it.
Do you have an aftermarket audio unit or something else that puts an increased amperage requirement on the car? If not the 63 amp unit should be fine considering I believe the original was 42 amps.
Do you have an aftermarket audio unit or something else that puts an increased amperage requirement on the car? If not the 63 amp unit should be fine considering I believe the original was 42 amps.
Yes, I have an electric radiator fan that pulls 12.4 amps, an electric fuel pump that pulls 3.5 amps and the stereo pulls enough to deflect the ammeter if I have the volume way up (I did not put my meter on the radio circuit). In another post I was advised to get a bigger alternator so the ammeter would not go into the discharge side- although the alternator does keep the battery charged. Since I have to rebuild the alternator anyway, I thought I would use the bigger stator, if it fits properly.
You should try to find a bigger rotor too. The more wire in the rotor windings, the more amps output. What power is the alternator in the car now? All parts will fit the chrome case.
You should try to find a bigger rotor too. The more wire in the rotor windings, the more amps output. What power is the alternator in the car now? All parts will fit the chrome case.
I have a stock 63 amp alternator in the car now from AutoZone. The vendor, Quick Start Automotive Electric, has an entire alternator for 105 amps and also 140 amps, but they are not chrome. They offer the stator in 63 and 105 amps that would go in my chrome alternator. The PO installed a lot of chrome on the engine and I am trying to put the chrome alternator back on that was on the car when I got it. I know- not a very good reason.
If 63 runs the car, get a new rear bearing and put the existing parts in the chrome case. Without proper bearing driver, removing good rear bearing and reinstalling in other case is iffy.
Last edited by derekderek; May 25, 2018 at 10:36 PM.
If 63 runs the car, get a new rear bearing and put the existing parts in the chrome case. Without proper bearing driver, removing good rear bearing and reinstalling in other case is iffy.
My motto is "it's a good repair job if you get to buy another tool". I have a bearing driver set that I bought years ago and have used only about four times. It has the correct size. I probably should start my own tool rental business. You name it , I probably have it.
Ok, then first get the chrome alternator apart. 5/16 bolts on the corners and 11/32 nuts holding the stator to rectifier. 1/4 for the voltage regulator and brush holder. If removing rectifier, make sure hot stud is insulated from ground. Stiff wire or sewing needle to pin brushes and springs in. Then see how well read bearing drives out and what shape rotor is in where it rides in that bearing. The front bearing goes bad more, though