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Hey guys, just acquired a 69 stingray with a 300 hp 350. Got it from my dad who got sick unfortunately. Car sat for ten years but I went through it and got it up and running. Lon story short I don’t know too much about corvettes but I am very very mechanically inclines and I am looking to do headers. Which ones are best for the money? I don’t want to dent or modify them to get them to fit. I want a perfect fit etc. also do you guys recommend shorty or longtube? My goal is headers with 40 series mufflers at the rear. Car is bored .030 over and has a mild cam and roller valve train. Thanks guys!!
I have a 68 wirh a 327/350hp so pretty much the same as yours. I installed Hook Competition Headers. The bolted on with no issues. You will have to modify your exhaust pipes with any headers. What I did was bought the headers painted and had them ceramic coated iside and out. Factory headers are not offered coated inside unless you buy custom headers. My header were just over $200.00 and the coating was $200.00. Can't beat it for $400.00.
I am running Doug's Headers D350 on my 1970 w/355. They fit perfectly with no mods or denting. They are long tube and DO tuck up under the car and aim at the inside corners where firewall and floorpans meet, so you would need a decent exhaust shop to build the system from the Headers back (which I did). The nice part is they keep your exhaust tucked up really nicely under the car. I am running Flowmaster 40's and it is absolutely sweet.
Depends what your budget is and how long you want them to last...
Cheapest: FlowTech Ceramic Coated 31106FLT: If you get them on sale from Advance Auto you can get them for $274.66.
You'll want to recheck your carb tuning after swapping to headers, and probably ignition timing especially if part of your moving to headers gets rid of your AIR / smog pump -if you "cook" these headers by getting them too hot they WILL start to rust and they WILL warp. But you won't find coated long tubes that fit perfectly with essentially everything for cheaper.
If you want what is, IMHO, the "best" headers that you can "buy once and cry once" for a stockish power C3 like yours, Stan's Tri-Ys will really help out with the low and mid RPM torque and even MPG some. They're stainless and should last forever. For a few more bucks, they'll send them down the street to get Ceramic coated -you're in the $1,000 range with Stan's Tri-Ys coated.
-Think about whether you're comfortable with exhaust drone and how much exhaust noise you're ok with; an H or X pipe as soon as you can after the collectors probably won't provide any more power with a stock-ish 350 hp motor, but it does quiet the noise and SOMETIMES helps with reducing the low frequency "drone".
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; Jun 11, 2018 at 02:25 PM.
I had the small H-pipe that you see added behind the cross member. It has one spot of drone from 1600-1800rpm, which you can cruise at if you want people to know you're coming, and other than that no drone, just the nice tone from the 40's. It's loud if you open it up, but not too loud.
Oh... keep in mind that dropping the driveshaft with an h-pipe in place is virtually impossible, so I'll need to cut and sleeve it when that day comes.
Last edited by JoeMinnesota; Jun 12, 2018 at 02:33 PM.
i have a 78 with a worked 400 sbc and long tube 1 and 7-8th hookers with an x pipe after the rear crossmember also 60 series flowmasters. i sometimes wish i went with 40s but the engine and headers make a good sound. about 475 or so hp and at least 50 more torque
Last edited by red78vette; Jun 12, 2018 at 05:25 PM.
I am running Doug's Headers D350 on my 1970 w/355. They fit perfectly with no mods or denting. They are long tube and DO tuck up under the car and aim at the inside corners where firewall and floorpans meet, so you would need a decent exhaust shop to build the system from the Headers back (which I did). The nice part is they keep your exhaust tucked up really nicely under the car. I am running Flowmaster 40's and it is absolutely sweet.
Depends what your budget is and how long you want them to last...
Cheapest: FlowTech Ceramic Coated 31106FLT: If you get them on sale from Advance Auto you can get them for $274.66.
You'll want to recheck your carb tuning after swapping to headers, and probably ignition timing especially if part of your moving to headers gets rid of your AIR / smog pump -if you "cook" these headers by getting them too hot they WILL start to rust and they WILL warp. But you won't find coated long tubes that fit perfectly with essentially everything for cheaper.
If you want what is, IMHO, the "best" headers that you can "buy once and cry once" for a stockish power C3 like yours, Stan's Tri-Ys will really help out with the low and mid RPM torque and even MPG some. They're stainless and should last forever. For a few more bucks, they'll send them down the street to get Ceramic coated -you're in the $1,000 range with Stan's Tri-Ys coated.
-Think about whether you're comfortable with exhaust drone and how much exhaust noise you're ok with; an H or X pipe as soon as you can after the collectors probably won't provide any more power with a stock-ish 350 hp motor, but it does quiet the noise and SOMETIMES helps with reducing the low frequency "drone".
Headers, looking for advice
