not sure how you plan on it turning on ? coolant switch or toggle?
for starters #87 would got to fan + , #85 ground or coolant switch that grounds on rise ,#30 to circuit breaker other circuit breaker terminal to bat source +12 constant battery would be best , #86 to ignition source or ignition toggle 12V , depends on how your running it.

 

87 and 30 are the switched connections, the positive (red) should go from the batt through the circuit breaker to the relay and then the blue to on to your fan (blue wire on the white plug) and black wire on the white plug to ground

85 and 86 are the coil wires and should be run off your switch to ground or positive depending on what style you have
M

AV81 types faster

 

At relay socket-

Red wire to circuit breaker in-line to battery +12- want the circuit breaker close to the battery-or constant +12V source

White wire to switched source- +12 volts will switch the fan on

Blue wire to fan connector blue

Black wires to ground.

Just saying- that I would look at another way to control the fans-

Might be the perfect set up for driving lights but not a electric fan set up...

 

I'd also say to look for something better. The terminals in that relay socket will likely fail and melt due to a poor connection. The terminals rolled like that are quite useless for reliable high current connections. Do a Google Image search for Packard 56 terminals - you want terminals like the square formed terminal pictures you'll see.

 

I have been using that same relay and socket in my RS Camaro with a Blackmagic fan for ten years , my relay ground runs to a thermal switch against the radiator , never had a problem BUT the car sees very little use its no way a daily driver not sure if it would hold up but I would run it and just inspect the wiring here and there to see if they are overheating .

 

Well, not every one fails, but they're not a good connector. They're rolled like that to be cheaper to manufacture with quality taking a back seat. I used that style for a couple or small wiring projects on a couple of cars and had a number of the higher current connections fail so I will never use them again. Thinking back about the last project, there were 8 high current carrying terminals and I had 3 failures where the connections overheated and melted the fuse or relay it was connecting to.

Look at the connectors on a stock wiring harness - you won't find any in that style for good reason.

 

Not sure if you know Vettes well cause my 81 has an electric fan that works with female spades plugged into a sensor in the passenger side head and its GM ,

 

OK, now I realize that you have no clue what I'm talking about. The below is a cheap rolled connector. You won't find this type of cheap rolled connector stock in a C3. Look closely at the pictures posted and this is what's inside the socket. It's likely inside that blade fuse holder too.



The below connector is the main connector type you will find in the stock C3 wiring. It's the connector construction you want.

 

I think your splitting hairs. If your saying the quality of todays stuff is mostly crap I agree , I do look for better made stuff myself most of my electrical parts I buy marine stuff way more expensive but very good quality. Not sure the quality of the socket he has so I cant say.

 

 

 

Both the female blade connectors have rolled for folded sides i dont know if i agree that is actually the issue in of itself,,

Look at the pic of a good one see it has that tongue folded back into it, it adds tention to the connection,

The cheaper aftetmarket ones normally do not have that,
But what i have experienced in the last 20 years or so is the aftermarket ones, no tongue also have little to no "bite" or "spring"
You slide the male in and even the first try is loose, sloppy
And it just gets worse over time, its hard to find good ones.

I believe when people use the generic 4 or 5 pole relays and report no issues its from several things,

not all of those relay plugs are junk, some are very well made,

The plug helps hold the connectors together, so if the metal connectors dont have good bite the plug help hold them together, faking it, if really bad they will get hot and melt,

it also depends how much a person runs through them,
Those little relays are normally 40/30,

I have seen some 50 amp and on ebay even 70 amp but with crap little blades for 70 amp, my good 70 amp relays have much bigger feed blades some are all around bigger,

I use 70 amp on all electric fans,

Both my 81 corvettes had the cooling option extra electric fan,
I dont recall the factory temp setting but it was high,
They also came on with ac,

 

White goes to a switched ignition source. I'd recommend fusing it if the place you tap off of isn't fused yet.

You have to cut the ring off the black wires and separate them. The black wire on the relay socket goes to the temperature switch. The black wire from the fan goes to ground.

 

Well, it's not an issue yet.

The relay easily plugged into and pulled out of the cheap sockets with the rounded connectors I bought. But, it was rather difficult to get the relay into the socket after I switched them to use the Packard 56 type terminals. That terminal type holds onto the male blade very tightly. The other advantage of using new terminals was that I could make the wires the right length instead of splicing onto the pigtail that came with the socket.

 

 

In my case i have ran into ones so crappy that doesnt work,
They are pure garage,
They make good ones just they are hard to find so play it safe use the type Lionel is pushing,

I dont like my relays hanging out in the open and put them in project boxes

 

I have zero idea why he had so many but when my dad passed and i raided some of his shop i have tote over tote of his wiring electric stuff my step mom would have tossed out to the curb,
Some dating back to his aircraft days and at least a 150 of the little potter brumfield relays, other brands too,
And lots of those relay sockets many have a piece of tape and my dads writing, "good" or "bad"
Why he saved the "bad" i do not know,

I had one melt on a 86 that i rewired to have the fans come on sooner,
Actually the fuse holder melted, seen that a ton of times,
Just junk crap parts

 

 

The switched ignition source turns the relay on. The battery source is the power to runs the fan. The fan needs 12V and ground to work so you have to ground the second wire from the fan.This is why you have to break the 2 ground wires apart since the sensor has to ground the relay coil but the fan needs to be solidly grounded.