Team Evil

We're in the midst of installing a rebuilt 327, we bought it as-is fresh out of a good running Corvette and hope to pop it into another without doing much more than a clean up/tune up/paint. I noticed that the crank pulley didn't have a bolt holding it in place and there didn't seem to be any threads deep in the crank that would accept a bolt, is this normal for the 327? Were the harmonic balancers simply a press fit, no hold down bolt needed, or is there something horrible going on here that will necessitate a tear down and machining or replacement? Sure could use some help, opinions, assurances, or cautions here, thanks ! TC

derekderek

No, they started putting a bolt in later. If crank ever comes out, get it drilled, tapped. I am sure GM wasn't figuring on 50 years worth of effing with cams and balancer being pressed back on God knows how many timss...

Team Evil

Thank you for the assurance ! Considering what a terrific little engine the 327 turned out to be, wouldn't you think that Chevrolet WOULD have anticipated it's popularity over the years to come. I'm a definite 409 kind guy (owned three and counting,) but have come to really appreciate this little 327 . . . a LOT ! This one that we're "working on" came from a Corvette and is a genuine Corvette engine. Pretty much complete except for the aftermarket air cleaner and alternator bracket. Its a delight to work with something that hasn't been subjected to the "Edelbrock Treatment." Thanks again, I honestly DO feel much better about this ! TC

derekderek

"She's so fine my 409"? Or .060 over 396?

LB66383

I know that the 327-300 horse in the '65 convertible I used to have did not have a bolt for the damper. I think I remember reading on this forum sometime in the past that the low-horsepower engines did not have a bolt and the high-horsepower engines did. Then again, my memory isn't what it used to be,

derekderek

I suffer from CRS...

Rescue Rogers

I have 2 68 forged 4672 cranks with the bolt hole added from what the previous owners have told me. The stock 69 cast crank already had it so it must have been a late 68-69 addition. Not having the bolt hole makes it a b1tch to turn the crank a few degrees if your hunting for top dead center without pulling the pulleys and adding a plate to turn it over. I would just plan on adding the bolt hole on the next rebuild. Butttttttt.......

buns

Many C1 and C2 owners have drilled and tapped the crank with the engine in the car. Why not do it now while it's out?

Rescue Rogers

you could pull the crank with no more than the cost of the bolt, a new pan gasket, 5 quarts of oil, filter, timing cover gasket and the cost of the machine shop to drill it dead center versus the risk of screwing it up by getting it off center , crooked or breaking the tap off in it. Whats another week of waiting. I think drilling it is a good idea but the risk of it falling off now is very minimal. Your going to change the oil anyway because you dont want to chance the other owner didnt put in a good oil. If its a temporary motor for the summer, Leaving it as is, is an acceptable choice. If its going to be next years motor as well, whats a few bucks to prevent a problem, besides, did he press it on or hammer it on?

Rescue Rogers

Good point. I had a few problems putting in my motor this spring, it went in and out 5 times before I finally could leave it in. In the last couple of years when ever something popped into my head and I didnt act on it, it bit me in the ***. I hope we gave you some things to weigh. If you leave it in just look at it every so often, you'll see if its walking or canting