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Question about Eaton Cone type posi

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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 12:14 PM
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Default Question about Eaton Cone type posi

I have acquired a super clean differential unit that was rebuilt about two years ago. The owner decided to upgrade. I opened it up and it has the auburn cone type posi. I don't know anything about them good or bad. I found a hot rod magazine article on how to add shims to tighten them up. Are they good for your typical vette driver or should I pull it and install the typical clutch unit. I'm probably going to sell it because I don't need more spares sitting around. It has 3.55 gears in it

Last edited by gkull; Jul 11, 2018 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I have acquired a super clean differential unit that was rebuilt about two years ago. The owner decided to upgrade. I opened it up and it has the eaton cone type posi. I don't know anything about them good or bad. I found a hot rod magazine article on how to add shims to tighten them up. Are they good for your typical vette driver or should I pull it and install the typical clutch unit. I'm probably going to sell it because I don't need more spares sitting around. It has 3.55 gears in it
Sounds like an Auburn cone posi, not as strong or rebuildable as an Eaton clutch type. They cost less but then you get what you pay for. I typically wouldn't use one.
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I have acquired a super clean differential unit that was rebuilt about two years ago. The owner decided to upgrade. I opened it up and it has the eaton cone type posi. I don't know anything about them good or bad. I found a hot rod magazine article on how to add shims to tighten them up. Are they good for your typical vette driver or should I pull it and install the typical clutch unit. I'm probably going to sell it because I don't need more spares sitting around. It has 3.55 gears in it
You sure you don't have an Auburn? They have the cone type design. Never used one. I know they are disposable, can't be rebuilt.

Mike
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by v2racing
You sure you don't have an Auburn? They have the cone type design. Never used one. I know they are disposable, can't be rebuilt.

Mike
Thanks Mike & Garry I spaced the name out. Of course the local driveline shop swears by them!


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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 01:45 PM
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George, I have a buddy who is looking for a differential to rebuild. PM me what you want for this one.

Mike
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by v2racing
George, I have a buddy who is looking for a differential to rebuild. PM me what you want for this one.

Mike
This came out of a running vette and it has the 2 year old paperwork for all new bearings, US gears 3.55 and the auburn posi unit. This could be installed as is or if somebody wanted to they could pull the caps, then ring gear and put in a Eaton clutch type posi and put it right back together because the lash and pattern are all good. It's shipping that kills sending this stuff. It doesn't have the yokes.

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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
This came out of a running vette and it has the 2 year old paperwork for all new bearings, US gears 3.55 and the auburn posi unit. This could be installed as is or if somebody wanted to they could pull the caps, then ring gear and put in a Eaton clutch type posi and put it right back together because the lash and pattern are all good. It's shipping that kills sending this stuff. It doesn't have the yokes.
I'll see if he is interested.

Mike
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 02:47 PM
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The lash and pattern would have to be reset when the posi is swapped. The Auburns are ok for a driver, much better then the Dana's used in 63-4 and 80-82
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
The lash and pattern would have to be reset when the posi is swapped. The Auburns are ok for a driver, much better then the Dana's used in 63-4 and 80-82
So Gary posi units don't have a blue print exacting width. I'm still learning.
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
So Gary posi units don't have a blue print exacting width. I'm still learning.
The flange dimension would most likely be off if you were to set them up side by side and measure them. The flange dimension would then dictate the shimming needed to set the lash and the pattern will determine where the pinion is. I suppose it's possible they would be very close but I wouldn't bet on it. Then you have the case of who last built it and was it right then? Some of the diff's I get in that were rebuilt by some guys, in say TX, are all over the place and would have or have failed in use.

Last edited by GTR1999; Jul 11, 2018 at 03:45 PM.
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