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I am in the process of installing my 4.11 rear, and have a question about U joints. The rebuilt rear has the 4 speed side yoke, the car is an automatic....so I need a joint that will convert the two sizes. I have seen 1310 to 1350 joints in the greaseable version, but no solids. ( I assume those are the sizes) Anybody running big power have suggestions?
So I figured out the best option is to swap half shafts and spindle flanges for the 4 speed 1350 size u joints, go Spicer solid. This brings me to wheel stud replacement.
Is the spindle pretty easy to knock loose? I have the flanges off now, but need the spindle knocker tool. Don't want to damage that if it can be avoided.
4.11 gears are in...
Last edited by The Money Pit; 07-28-2018 at 08:46 PM.
spindles can be difficult depending on age and condition.. burnt bearings can be extremely hard .. if you don t have or can t find a knocker tool, you can use a big slide hammer from the hub side.. you can borrow one from your local parts store . or remove the Tailing Arm and use a press .. careful not to lose the shims .. when you reassemble, you need to shim it to get .002-.006 run out. and then 100 ft lbs on the nut
Been reading archives about spindle removal horrors....There is nothing wrong with my spindles at this time, so if I do not have to remove them, I won't.
The real project at hand is replacing the wheel studs to longer studs, so I have enough thread engagement if I use spacers. The current wheel adaptor puts my tire outside the fender, and I am trying to reduce the thickness as much as I can to pull the tires in.
I have to order half shafts and wheel spindle flanges, get it together enough to measure tire clearance, and then go from there. Any tricks to removing the studs without beating them with a BFH? I'm looking into finding a stud remover I can borrow, or rent, or fabbing something up myself.
Last edited by The Money Pit; 07-30-2018 at 08:07 AM.
Finally received my half shafts and spindle flanges, and got them installed today. I did a mock up of my wheels with thinner spacers to get an idea just how much I can pull the tires in, and thought I'd report my findings.
With my sway bar removed, and the spring still put, I used my floor jack to lift the wheel through out the full range of motion, while I watched for clearance issues. The pocket in the frame where the T-arms connect is the area to be the problem as many others have found. Not sure what I'm going to do about that just yet. So with my 295 55 15 drag radials and the spacer 3/4 inch thick, it'll clear the pocket by less than 1/8 inch. With the welds having a backset of 5 1/2 inches, plus the 3/4 inch spacer, that equates to a wheel with 4 3/4 inch backset. This combination has a section width of 11 5/8 inches and will stick out just about 1/2 inch past the fender, still not as I had hoped, but better than the 1 inch I had.
In all this I would like to increase the thickness of the bump stop, just for insurance against fender damage, and will more than likely end up with a 420 lb shortened spring to control rear end squat. I expect with the 4.11 gears and the 406,.....there's going to be a lot more squat than I had before.
Anyone know where I might find a bump stop about 3 inches thick. The stock one measures 2 inches on my 80.
To control the squat in my car I put a piece of square tubing between the bump stop and it's mount. I know it looks cheesy but I've had them in a year now and they work great. I'm pulling low 1.40's 60 foot times.
How thick is that? I could fab my own, but I was hoping to find one readily available. Just a bolt universal one, unless one of the Corvette venders has one.
How thick is that? I could fab my own, but I was hoping to find one readily available. Just a bolt universal one, unless one of the Corvette venders has one.
it's either 1" or 1.25". I got it at Home Depot.
I found a left over piece of steel in my junk that will fit the mount almost perfectly, and Summit has traction bar snubbers that would make my fabbed mount 3 1/4 inches overall height.
If your bump stop works without hitting during normal cruise,....I think this could be a good option.
Here's a pic of it on the ground. It still has about .75 inch of travel and using a rubber stop instead of a poly softens it when it does occasionally bottom out.
It is my humble opinion that you don't ever want a suspension to bottom out. Snubbers can make the car uncontrollable. You crank up the ride height, increase the spring rate, or compression dampening of the shock. Even stiffer rear sway increases side to side working. I took out my rear snubbers years ago. You should talk to the high powered drag racers about what they do for IRS rear end setups. I only had a 434 with 12 inch slicks not optimized for drag racing and accomplished some 10.90's on not well prepped track with a 3800 stall and 4.11 gears. My 6 point cage kept frame flex to near nothing. One of the other guys here on the forum has done 10.34 or something with my same kind of motor and the same @3000 pound C-3
I agree with the bottoming out not being ideal, but ….gotta stop fender damage somehow.
I've run these tires for 10 years and never had clearance issues with the stock bump stops and a 360 lb spring. The 4.11s and the mods I have planned for the 406 are making me rethink the bump stop.
I'll talk to a few spring venders today and get their opinions too. I was already planning on stepping the rate to 420 lbs, and getting it made an inch short each side for tire wiggle room.
This pic shows the tire with the wheel sticking out an inch. I mocked the other side up and brought it in 1/2 inch. Looks much better to me, but still sticks out about 1/2 inch.
Last edited by The Money Pit; 08-13-2018 at 08:06 AM.
Just an update as to progress made. I fabbed a 3/4 inch thick steel block, and tapped it for a 3/8-16 stud mounted frame bumper. Hopefully I will have limited wheel travel enough, but not induced unnecessary bump during normal cruising. The wheel adaptors are on, but I still need to address the spring upper mounting location, so the bolt will remain vertical. Waiting on the spring as of now.
Last edited by The Money Pit; 08-25-2018 at 10:18 PM.
I made this plate out of 3/8 inch thick steel, and bolted it to the existing offset T-arm. Once I am happy with the clearances I'll have it tig welded , but for now two grade 8 bolts will be plenty strong. This week I got the spring, but there must have been some mix up, and they sent the wrong one.....More waiting I guess.
I used floor jacks to try out the new bump stops, and I think they'll be OK. Full compression I still have 1 1/2 inches before the tire hits the fender. Once it's on the ground, I may end up with a shorter bump stop if I find it hits during normal cruise. Tires stick out now only 1/2 inch....awesome considering they are 295 55 15 drag radials.
Last edited by The Money Pit; 09-09-2018 at 11:50 AM.
What I did here was mock up a 2x4 to get a more accurate measurement between the relocated spring bolts. I measured just under 44 inches between bolt centers, so now the custom spring can be made to fit that spec. The way this is sitting, it should simulate the exact geometry when the car is actually on the ground. Notice the half shafts are parallel to the ground, spring bolts are vertical, and I have an inch of clearance from the spring end.
Last edited by The Money Pit; 09-15-2018 at 05:22 PM.
Been a while since I had a chance to work on the Vette. Step son is moved out for the most part, still a ton left to move, but no hurry on the odds and ends.
Van Steel sent me another custom spring, this one is the correct length, and I'm told it's 440 lbs. Got it in this morning, but still haven't adjusted the spring bolts to the final setting.
Anyone running a 420 lb spring give me some intel on bolt length? It would be a snap to swap shorter bolts in now if need be.
Since the exhaust is already down, I plan to drop the trans and swap in my custom converter, cast aluminum deep pan, and Royal Purple fluid.
Next week I help the step daughter move into her new house...……….
There is no rest for the wery………..
Last edited by The Money Pit; 10-06-2018 at 03:49 PM.
07-23-2018, 09:09 AM
Solid Spicers or HD universals?
One of the other guys here on the forum has done 10.34 or something with my same kind of motor and the same @3000 pound C-3
