C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 03:55 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Hardscrable
I had a similar issue a year ago. Intermittent at first. Started checking top down and had power to selonoid so replaced it. Thought at first the new solenoid fixed it until happened again. Tapped on starter with a small hammer and it would work for a couple starts. Finally replaced the starter also...problem solved.
Back on that issue again...

Car was sitting over the winter, started up properly at first, but couple of days later starter got stuck again. Not a question of heat, only took the car from the driveway out in the street and let it sit there for 4-5 hours until I tried to start again - nothing. Hit the starter - not the selenoid - with a hammer, car started!

I noticed some days before that the starter was starting to turn "slower" over two or three days. At first I thought maybe due to lower battery as I only drove her around the block, not for a longer run so the battery could build up again.

Now, as I already replaced the selenoid last fall (starter out, cleaned up all posts and connections): should I take the starter apart, clean and lube, check brushes? Remember, it´s a 36k mls car. Should I install a new (or rebuild?) starter, if new, a high-torque? Can the starter bind because of missing shims?
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 07:44 AM
  #22  
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missing shims it would still make noise. sounds like brushes are wearing or worn out. quick cheat. put a wire on S terminal. long wire. throw other end thru window. touch to batt pos. if cranks every time, it is the S circuit. i would consider the permanent magnet type or even gear reduction starters. they weigh less, don't bitch about heat, and are sealed better so surface rust in solenoid won't cause hammer drag. need less amps. both to fire starter and to crank engine.
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 09:38 AM
  #23  
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Default Don't "hammer" on a modern Permanent Magnet starter

Originally Posted by Hardscrable
I had a similar issue a year ago. Intermittent at first. Started checking top down and had power to selonoid so replaced it. Thought at first the new solenoid fixed it until happened again. Tapped on starter with a small hammer and it would work for a couple starts. Finally replaced the starter also...problem solved.
Originally Posted by colonel328
It´s been a couple of days, however, I kept working on the car now and then when I got around doing so.

I bench tested the starter, worked, but sometimes a little hesitating. Upon reinstallation however, I broke off the S-terminal when I overtightend the nut that holds the wire. Took the starter out again, installed a new solenoid, put starter back in.

Tried to start the car - car ran! Sometimes. So I figure the starter aint that good anymore.

I only get to drive the car unregularly. I´ll keep watching this and try to verify the suspect by hitting the starter with a hammer when it fails again. I will then replace the starter motor, if necessary.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

FWIW: the solenoid set me back roughly 20$ @RA. For 40 I would have gotten a new starter - incl. the solenoid....
Originally Posted by colonel328
Back on that issue again...

Car was sitting over the winter, started up properly at first, but couple of days later starter got stuck again. Not a question of heat, only took the car from the driveway out in the street and let it sit there for 4-5 hours until I tried to start again - nothing. Hit the starter - not the selenoid - with a hammer, car started!

I noticed some days before that the starter was starting to turn "slower" over two or three days. At first I thought maybe due to lower battery as I only drove her around the block, not for a longer run so the battery could build up again.

Now, as I already replaced the selenoid last fall (starter out, cleaned up all posts and connections): should I take the starter apart, clean and lube, check brushes? Remember, it´s a 36k mls car. Should I install a new (or rebuild?) starter, if new, a high-torque? Can the starter bind because of missing shims?
OE C3 starters are the old-fashioned type, having HEAVY wound field coils ... modern starters are much LIGHTER and (instead of heavy wound field coils) have PERMANENT MAGNETS. Those Permanent Magnets are usually a very brittle & thin casting.

An age-old roadside trick that often helps OLD, wound field coil starters a lot: sometimes starters' brushes can be re-seated onto commutator by striking, tapping, hitting starter with a hammer or similar. But refrain from doing same with modern Permanent Magnet starters.

For good reason, many old-car enthusiasts have replaced their old, heavy, heat soak-prone starters with modern Permanent Magnet starters.

But Permanent Magnet starters should Not be struck with anything because that strike can easily crack their Permanent Magnets; that crack WILL destroy the magnets' field and starter cannot function. I learned this the hard way. FYI: most any auto, lite truck, mower, tractor etc manufactured in last 20-30 years has a Permanent Magnet starter.
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 02:52 PM
  #24  
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Just to close this topic: replaced starter with a new one, problem solved! Should have done that right away, the starter was only like double the price of the selenoid...
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 06:17 PM
  #25  
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I know this is a little late in the game and it is an old thread, BUT having an 82 GM FSM is a GREAT investment for troubleshooting issues on a car that is 37 years old regardless of the mileage, jus sayin'. Glad you go it finally fixed.
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