When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi, I wasn’t happy with the steering feel on my 74 coupe, lots of play, and just not very confident. I adjusted the box, but decided to buy the Borgeson steering box upgrade. I’ve heard good reviews on the kit, and it’s a much cheaper option to the rack and pinion kits. Ive read some threads on here which were a great help, so though I’d add my project so hopefully someone might find it useful.
I ordered the kit from the states, ( I’m in the U.K. ) and after 3 long weeks, it turned up last Thursday. So set about installing on Friday.
The kit replaces the standard steering box, with a lower ratio Delphi 600 box, lock to lock being 3 turns of the steering wheel, the old box is 4.
It also replaces the control valve, and negates the need for the ram assembly, which gets removed. Also in the kit is a new rag joint, hoses and hose adaptors. All existing plumbing is replaced.
The new box is actually a power assisted box, unlike the old one which relies on the ram and control valve to assist. So the existing power steering pump plumbs directly to the new steering box. This has the advantage of getting rid of the bits that often leak.
Here’s the kit:
First things first, the front needs jacking up, so the wheels are off the ground. I opened the doors, hood, and released the t tops, as I read that chassis flex can cause problems opening things later.
Next, I disconnected the hoses from the control valve, and ram, and the ram from it’s mount at the drivers side chassis rail.
Then removed the ram mount.
This is messy, and I compressed the ram to empty the fluid, do this slowly as it ejects it everywhere otherwise!
Once the fluid had drained, I disconnected the hoses from the pump, and removed the ram from the steering linkage. I used a pickle fork for this, it’s was really tight. In hind sight, a puller would have been better.
There are 4 hoses in total, only 3 shown for reasons explained later
Next, I disconnected the pitman arm from the control valve, and unscrewed the valve. The pitman arm was tight, I used a pickle fork again.
I did try and remove the pitman arm from the steering box while attached to the car, but it wasn’t shifting. I ended up removing the box with it still attached.
The box is held on with 3 bolts that push through from the wheel arch. 2 can be seen, the 3rd is behind the access panel, which I left in place.
I unshipped the alternator to give better access, and unbolted the 2 half’s of the rag joint. Which was in much worse shape than thought!
Next job once everything’s off, is to collapse the steering column to clear the longer box. This was easy on my car, it collapsed with firm taps with a soft mallet. Others have had real issues with this, some removing the column completely to do this.
It’s a bit of trial and error to get the correct length, shorten it a bit, trial fit, and repeat. Once done, the column was about 2.5inch shorter.
One problem a few have had is the new larger steering box touching the headers, and having to dent them to clear, but mine were fine. I think it’s definitely an issue for big block cars.
Also, others have had to move the brake line under the rag joint, but again, mine was clear.
So, once the column is right, the box can be bolted in. Split the rag joint in half, put the 2 half’s on the column and steering box, and bolt it all up, simple! Well....
You need to set the steering box into its centre position, so as if the wheels are straight. Rotate the shaft fully one way, and rotate back roughly 1.5 turns. You’ll need to work out the correct position that the rag joint pushes onto the column, it’ll only press on the steering box one way. So the steering wheel is straight, If all’s correct, then the pitman arm will bolt on straight. The arm can only go on at 12,3,6 and 9 o’clock positions, so to get this wrong, means your 90deg out, so unlikely!
Now you can connect the hoses. I had a problem with the return line to the pump, it’s a bit short to get a nice curve on it, it kept kinking, as the pipe on the pump it connects to is facing the wrong way really. So, I used the old hose, cut the end fitting off, and pushed the new pipe onto it, shortening it a bit.
Also, the new brass insert that goes into the return line on the steering box was too big, and needed turning down a little. I made a jig to fit it into my drill, and used sand paper to reduce the size. It’s a non sealing edge, so won’t leak if it’s a little rough.
The pressure line insert was fine.
Next thing is to thread the new drag link onto the steering control arm, it replaces the old control valve.
I bolted the alternator back up once the steering box was back in.
Last thing is to bolt up the pitman arm, or so I thought. It’s now I realised the shaft seal on the new steering box was leaking, and on further inspection, and removing, found the outer, and inner seals were badly damaged. I was fuming!! This is how it came out, I didn’t do this damage removing them. And this explains why there was so much fluid leaking out in the box
I ordered a new seal kit from rock auto ( awesome as always, 3 day delivery to the U.K. ) once installed I put the pitman arm on, checked full movement, and all looked good. Filled the system, and ran the steering, lock to lock to help bleed the air out.
After a drive, I can say it’s well worth all the work, really impressed with the feel of the steering, closer ratio really helps.
Once I’ve done the rear bearings, I’ll get a full alignment done, once I’ve found someone in the U.K. that can do it!
And, what’s even more impressive is I actually managed to set the rag joint right, so the steering wheels straight!
Regarding the fluid, Borgeson say any decent power steering fluid will do, not transmission fluid. The box came with red fluid inside, so I used a good quality fluid from my local garage.
Thanks for documenting your installation! I did the conversion on a '73 that I had. The original steering box was worn out. The Borgeson setup was definitely an improvement and also cleaned up the steering linkage nicely with the removal of the ram and valve. Pretty disturbing that the new box had damaged seals though.
I have had my Borgeson kit sitting in my garage for 3yrs now!!
I am hoping to finally get to installing it this winter. I also bought the Brogeson u-joint that I may use instead of the rag joint, haven't decided which way I will go yet.
Great project! Thanks for the thorough documentation, this is one of the to-do projects on my list in the near future.
Do you remember the kit part number?
Hi, yes the part number is 999032 for the complete kit, and it’s around the $670 mark for you lucky guys, with taxes and import cost me $900. But still worth every penny.
I have had my Borgeson kit sitting in my garage for 3yrs now!!
I am hoping to finally get to installing it this winter. I also bought the Brogeson u-joint that I may use instead of the rag joint, haven't decided which way I will go yet.
Get it done! 😂
I see a few threads with people using u-joints, and they haven’t seen any more vibration through the steering wheel. I used the rag joint as it came with the kit.
I've had the Borgeson box in my car now for about 3 year, no issues at all, this conversion is one of the best , it improved the steering on my Vette immensely, steering is more direct
Strange ... I posted my pics to this thread and they got attached to an older thread for some reason ... here I go again. This is mine with the RideTech brace:
Strange ... I posted my pics to this thread and they got attached to an older thread for some reason ... here I go again. This is mine with the RideTech brace:
Damn, I like that brace. Very good idea and.... one more thing to buy LOL! Thx for pointing it out!!
I believe the horn gets its ground through the steering shaft. The original rag joint had a conductive mesh running through it so that ground would transfer through the steering column to the steering box and onto the frame. The replacement rag joints nowadays don't have the mesh in them so they are strictly insulators. You can run a ground strap from the steering column side of the rag joint to the steering box side to ensure it gets a good ground.
Hi, I’ve not installed an earth across the new Borgeson rag joint, but it looks like there’s some sort of earth ring around the column where it comes through the firewall. Horn work fine.
my 78 didn't have a ground strap, and I'm pretty sure it's factory original unmolested. My 75 also didn't have a ground strap across the rag joint. my horns work fine
I agree that bearings shouldn't serve as the ground conductor. GM must've decided to save some money and after a while eliminated the ground strap, and said it'll probably take 30yrs before the bearing start getting pitted, but only if they're not well greased. not as conscientious as the first generation of Corvette engineers, maybe. We all know that QC went to hell in the 70's and 80's.
Next time I'm under there, I'll probably retro-fit a ground strap, just for peace of mind.
I have not seen a quality C3 rag joint in over 5 years, The last place that had very good rag was LICS and I used the 67 rag for c3 box builds that needed new worms. Worked out great, LICS is now out of stock on them and discontinued selling them. The problem is sourcing a quality layered material as Saginaw used.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Borgeson steering install on my 74
