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I noticed the alignment on my 76 getting progressively bad.
It started pulling slightly to the left, then hard to the left - so much that I had to hold the wheel at 10 o'clock to keep it going straight, and the tires would squeel. Now I have to cut the wheel to nearly 9 o'clock to get the car going straight. It's insane.
Obviously, I haven't been driving around much like this, especially after it's gotten progressively worse.
I was expecting to take the wheel off today and see a mangled tie rod or something dramatic like that, but didn't see anything. Tie rod ends clearly should be replaced. Boot is loose, etc., etc., but nothing crazy.
Took a look at the control arms, and they looked pretty decent, as if someone had atleast given them a rehab in the last few years.
I plan on replacing all the tire rods and sleeves on both sides, but is there something else that I should be looking at?
You did check to see if the alignment shims havent fallen out?
It also could be the steering control valve. Place the front of the vehicle on jack stands. Turn the steering wheel so it is centered. Start the car. If the wheel turns by itself you can try adjusting the valve.
You did check to see if the alignment shims havent fallen out?
It also could be the steering control valve. Place the front of the vehicle on jack stands. Turn the steering wheel so it is centered. Start the car. If the wheel turns by itself you can try adjusting the valve.
This became more pronounced after I replaced my power steering lines. I'm wondering if that's the issue. How is the valve adjusted?
The power steering VALVE has a screw adjustment in the end of it, and can be out of balance/bias by directing more assist toward the right or the left. To check it:
Jack up the front of the car, start the car with front wheels off the ground, rev the motor a bit, and see if your steering wheel and wheels turn magically to the right, or left. If they do drift either way, bias is out of adjustment.
Pull the front left wheel, pop the end cap off the steering valve with a screwdriver. Use a 7/16" (1/4" drive to fit between the lines) socket with extension, re-center and mark the top of the steering wheel with painters tape so you can see it turn, start the car and let idle, and adjust the bias. I turn it both directions until I find the two points where the pump will turn the wheels one way or the other (about 5/8 of a turn apart) and turn it back just over a 1/4 turn to the "middle".
After adjustment, mine drove like a different car. Tracks straight down the road and when I turn it no longer "dives" or darts one way or the other, and I'm not fighting the wheel. The steering is heavier and the front wheels felt well planted.
I had replaced the lines on top of the valve, and not the bottom. I took a look at the bottom, and some idiot didn't install them right (not crossed at all). I had a set of the lower ones and have almost got them on (It's really annoying how they are threaded in at an angle - still working on the last one). I'm assuming this may be the cause of my problem?
One thing that I noticed was that when loosening up the lines from the ram or whatever, it turns a little left to right (not up and down). Looks like there's a ball joint or something on it. Is this spinning normal?
Just a quick reminder..... after you raise the front of the car.... DO NOT reach over and put your arm through the steering wheel to start the car. If that valve is off as bad as it could be, you can get hurt pretty badly as soon as the engine fires, as in broken arm. Sit in the driver seat and start it.... keep your hands off the wheel. you will know if its off.
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you say the tires squeel? Do you see a wear pattern on the edge of the tire starting? Did you check your ball joiints? Jack up the front of the car, grab the tire and push and pull in a rocking motion (wiggling) on the top and bottom of the tire. If you feel a thunk the ball joints are bad. Do the same on the side pushing and pulling on the tire to see if it clunks, thats tire rods.
that's some severe lateral movement, suggest u put it on a lift or pair of floor jacks and do some aggressive wiggling on the tire, whatever you see wobbling will point to the issue, as the op said you need to do this.