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1980 C3 Window In-Op

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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 07:32 PM
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Default 1980 C3 Window In-Op

Hello,
Newbie here. I hope this is in the right Forum. I have a 1980 C3 with the Power Windows, Blower Motor Fan In Op. It started as an Intermittent problem and when this was happening I noticed that the Choke light was Illuminated on the speedometer cluster. When the light went out the Windows and Blower Motor would work normal. Now the Choke Light stays on ALL the time and the Windows and the Blower Motor does not work. So far I checked the power from the started soleniod to the first connector that has the 4 Red Wires and I Black Wire. I'm working my way into the vehicle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 01:17 PM
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I don't have the wireing diagram but it sounds like there is a fault to ground on the windows and its falsely illuminating the dash light, trace the elect from windows to fuse box odds are that's the area to focus on. I would also check to ensure the elect choke is working properly when the warning light is illuminated, ive seen custom dash clusters with this type of false illumination when something else is faulted to ground.
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 03:54 PM
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Power windows, blower motor and electric choke are all fed from the same wire (12 gauge orange) that leads from the ignition switch to the fuse panel. It goes hot only with the key at the "ON" position.

I suggest you remove all of those fuses and with the ignition at "ON" (engine does not need to be running) check for +12V at the fuses. You should find such at one terminal only on each fuse. Added: The power windows have a circuit breaker in the fuse box. I don't know if the electric choke uses a fuse or circuit breaker. The blower motor uses a fuse.

If no power then remove the connectors from the ignition switch. It's at the bottom side of the steering column near the base and intentionally rather difficult to access. You have to remove a trim panel and A/C duct for certain. Removing the driver seat makes working in that area much easier. The two red wires on it should have +12V at all times. The schematic seems to show that these two feeds lead to the same power rail but I'm not certain. Anyhow, both should have power. If they have power replace the connectors and backprobe the orange wire with the key at "ON". If no power then the ignition switch has failed. If there is power you have a problem between there and the fuse box. Hope the problem isn't the last mentioned as a proper repair will require that you remove much of the cabin wiring harness.

Last edited by SwampeastMike; Aug 25, 2018 at 03:59 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 04:20 PM
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Thanks, Sambrand and SwampeastMike,
After removing the fuse block, (because I didn't see this post in time) I noticed the orange wire that fed the Three legs of the circuits in the box and followed it to the steering column were I found a connection that was unplugged. I plugged it in and the blower motor started running (the key was in the on position). After plugging in the circuit breaking the windows worked as well as the choke light going off. All of this for an unplugged connector. Well Thanks again for all your help. And you were right removing the seat was a great help.
Thanks again......
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 09:44 AM
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That connector was one of two on the ignition switch. Only pygmies can work in there with the seat installed The blower is designed to operate at low speed whenever the ignition switch is in the "ON" position.
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 07:23 PM
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