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My 75 with HEI ignition has timing issues I think. With timing light hooked up, the mark on the vibration dampener moves around quit a bit. Should it be very steady at what ever my timing is set to? If so, would this be caused by maybe something not firing good or properly? Thanks in advance for any help.
If it is jumping around, assume wear in the distributor mechanism, or more likely in the timing chain. How many miles? Usually it's the chain, and running long or hard on a worn chain set will eventually break it, then larger issues.
Are you plugging off the vacuum advance to time it, and it is not steady at idle or at a steady rpm? Not uncommon to see the mark move a degree one way and the other, but if it's jumping up and down a lot I might assume timing chain wear.
I too have the dreaded light jumping around like a Mexican bean. Rumor has it that its not your IGN but rather the timing light. More specifically, the pickup probe can not receive a good signal from the plugwire. I use a fairly cheap $50 light w/ dial-back and just ignore the occasional false firings.
And timing chain / dizzy are only two yrs old. (<1,500 miles)
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 26, 2018 at 11:12 AM.
check for wear by taking the distributor cap off and turn the motor by hand both ways you should see it move almost immediately if not there some slop in the chain
If it is jumping around, assume wear in the distributor mechanism, or more likely in the timing chain. How many miles? Usually it's the chain, and running long or hard on a worn chain set will eventually break it, then larger issues.
Not sure of exact miles. Let's say alot. Speedo was unhooked when I got car 16 years ago. Probably at least 150,000 on this engine. This car has been in the family since 1986. I know the distributor and chain have not been replaced.
Are you plugging off the vacuum advance to time it, and it is not steady at idle or at a steady rpm? Not uncommon to see the mark move a degree one way and the other, but if it's jumping up and down a lot I might assume timing chain wear.
I tried it with and without vacuum advance hooked up. When I say it moves around I mean it moves alot just for a second. Mostly stays pretty still but then BAM! Big jump. Way more than a degree.
Sloppy timing chain or the springs on the advance weights under the distributor rotor have come off, or are weak.....
Very unlikely a timing light could make it appear as it is jumping around. Try your light on another car or borrow a light from a buddy. I do not use dial back lights unless I have to as the dial back feature in my experience can make for incorrect readings as it is a delay controlled by a rheostat. I use a crummy $35 Craftsman light that I bought twenty years ago and it is accurate......it has been back to back checked with a Blue Point strobe.......simple.
Anyway.....pull the cap and move the rotor by hand....it should move a bit with some tension and snap right back......if it does not, you have found the problem.
Had same issue on my l68 and it was a worn timing chain ,I agree with forman on a good way to check for wear on your timing set .Mine was getting about 6 degrees of movement .Which meant I could turn the motor 6 degrees before the pointer would move on the distributor .
Check for slop in the ignition system first but there can be other causes. See if it still scatters at high RPM or just low RPM. Help you know where to look.
Multi spark ignition will cause many timing lights to act that way even when everything else is working fine. Setting the timing at the top of the advance curve will avoid the problem with multisparks. Not a bad way for a single spark ignition either.
Check for slop in the ignition system first but there can be other causes. See if it still scatters at high RPM or just low RPM. Help you know where to look.
Multi spark ignition will cause many timing lights to act that way even when everything else is working fine. Setting the timing at the top of the advance curve will avoid the problem with multisparks. Not a bad way for a single spark ignition either.
I agree. My timing light mark jumps about every 5-8 seconds or so at idle and only stays at the incorrect mark for a fraction of a second. Its very "hit & miss" very erratic. That's why I blame the timing light before pulling the fan, W.P, timing chain cover . . . . . . . . .
Some timing lights don't do well with the 50,000V systems. The gun can not process the sparkplug signal fast enough and relay it to the vibration damper.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 27, 2018 at 07:40 PM.
Probably at least 150,000 on this engine. This car has been in the family since 1986. I know the distributor and chain have not been replaced.
My 69 BB had 56k when I bought it. The nylon coating on the timing gear teeth was mostly in the pan and the chain was flopping around. The lower bushing in the distributor housing was worn and causing erratic timing. Changed the housing and the problem was fixed.