I rebuilt the trailing arms a couple years ago. At the time end play was in spec. Researching a shimmy from the rear end I find I now have about 1/16" play in all directions.Took one side apart. Cotter keys in place, sproket bolt still has the correct torque. Is it possible to fix this on the car or do I need to order new bearings, pull the trailing arms and start over. I only put a few hundred local miles, mostly in town, on the car a year, should I just live with it.

 

I would find and fix the problem and not just live with it. Did you put a dial indicator on it to find out exactly what the end play is? Start with some measurements and see what you have. If you have to replace the bearings it can be done on the car but the right way to do it and probably the easiest in the long run is to remove the trailing arm/bearing assembly and do it on the bench. Since you did the trailing arms only a couple of years ago everything should come apart with minimal effort.

 

Hopefully Gary Ramadei, GTR1999, will chime in since he is the expert with rear wheel bearings............He can give you advice on how to replace the bearings correctly or you can send him for the job if you prefer.......His work is superb.........

 

Hi Jeff
Thank you, how are you?

 

Ken
If you have 1/16" ( 0625") of movement in the axle bearings you have issues there. If they were just rebuilt with only 200 miles they were not set up correctly. It doesn't matter who built them, you or another source, they are not correct and will not get any better. If indeed the play is in the bearings and not showing up looking like axle play ie; inner axle play, bushing play, etc. If you are 100% sure the play is in the bearings you should replace them. You can not adjust them on the car, or off for that matter. You will read and see on you tube the 002" endplay spec all day long. The factory spec is 001-008" BUT is very subjective to testing methods used. I never go by those spec's, I set them up without any lateral play and that usually is about 0015" but if you bring them in to the first reading of 002" chances are they are going to be loose installed. I was sitting here having lunch and watching some of the You Tube rear bearing videos, I guarantee if you follow some of what I saw the bearings are not going to be setup correctly. Two different videos show rebuilding and yet neither one used a torque wrench setting up the bearings.

If you need some coaching let me know. I use a surface grinder to parallel grind the spacers, shims, and flanges, they go together flat and stay where I set them to from setup tool to final assembly. If you have access to a machine you can do the same, if not there will be potential areas that will change. Check the spacers for parallel surfaces and you might find the out 005" or more.

Good luck, the second time will take care of it. When assembled and laying on the bench in front of you there should be no rocking when pressing on the rotor. If you grab a wheel stud you should not feel it move in/out.

 

Thanks. I hadn't thought of checking U-tube. I guess the first step is to get it apart and see what is going on. Have too many other projects on my plate right now. Will report back in a couple weeks.

 

The best piece of advice I can give you is NOT to follow what I have seen on youtube, some of these guys have no idea what they're doing and will cause others to fail.

 

Friend got home from vacation so I was able to borrow the fixture that screws over the spindle treads so they can be beaten out. Bearings are fine. I reread the instructions, missed the part about setting the play with DRY bearings. Cleaned everything up, think I've got it now. At about 60# torque (I know final torque is 100, not alot of room under the car,only want to do that once), with dry bearings both hubs are hand moveable with medium-moderate drag in rotation. Other neighbor is out of town so no access to a runout guage. One has slight, bearly perceptable movement, the other moves about the thickness of a sheet of paper.

Couple days before the new seals come in and I can complete. Is it ready to go back together? Comments please Garry

 

If you drive out the spindle I would replace the bearings. Use light oil or I use spindle oil on the bearings setting them up. While a good attempt can be made to do them on the car I never would. I get more accurate results doing them off the car. You have to torque them to 100 ft/lb for setup and final, 60 isn't going to work.

"Is it ready to go back together?" based on what you wrote it is not how I would do them so my answer is no. Others may disagree and based on the work I have seen with arms over the years I can see why they were in various states of setup. Some will use the book spec of 001-008" endplay setup, I never go by that. I go by removing the lateral play and that will come to about 0015". There is no movement once assembled but the axles run smooth. Ultimately you are in control so good luck with the build, hopefully it goes well and you are on the road soon.