When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1975 350 4spd. I purchased and installed an Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb. When the car idles everything is fine including revving the engine. However when I put the car in gear and go down the street the engine sputters like it's going to stall. I need to take the car out of gear and pump the pedal to keep it going. Sometime this will not work and the car stalls. When it does stall out I pump the pedal once and start the car up.
I changed the rotor, distributor cap. coil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, set the timing to 6BTDC. Adjusted the electric choke flap when the engine was cold to a the thickness of 3 credit cards.
Today I installed a fuel pressure gauge and at idle the needle bounces from 4 to 8 sometimes 9. I checked down the barrels of the carb and don't see any fuel dripping down. The only fuel I see is when idle and I rev the car up.
I can't figure this out. Why is it stalling when in gear? Can anyone please help?
As a baseline, the 2 idle mixture screws should be 1.75 turns out +/-. If the primary throttle blades are open too far (idling too high) this circuit doesn't matter as circuit is bypassed. I would try giving some more ignition timing as 6 btdc sounds a little low. I always set distributor at full advance and adjust from there. curve, advance , fuel, cam and compression always play a part. try a little more initial timing and see if it helps. easy enough to go back.
Those Weber/Carter (Edelbrock) carbs are very simple carburetors. Unless some dirt clogs the needle and seat, a very good , albeit ugly carburetor (compared to a Holley). I was required to run them for my class in my last race car and heavily modified them, which was actually very minimal baseline mods. Very good, simple carburetor.
I don't believe the carb is the problem, at least not all of it. Timing is way low @6*, try 12 to 15. Check that the vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum ( right vacation port on front of carb) and that the vacuum advance diagram is functioning.
First tganks for your help. The 12 to 15 is that timing with the vacuum advanced disconnected from the distributor and plugged or still connected to the carb. Also if I'm standing in front of the carb is that vacuum connection to my right of left
If you have an adjustable timing light set it at 38 degrees and raise rpm until timing stabilizes and all in, usually 2500rpm. Only way I've ever done it. too many variables involved. And yes, you can double check initial timing afterward. May surprise you.
My race cars have the timing locked out so you usually can set the timing within a degree or 2 before installing the engine in the car.
First tganks for your help. The 12 to 15 is that timing with the vacuum advanced disconnected from the distributor and plugged or still connected to the carb. Also if I'm standing in front of the carb is that vacuum connection to my right of left
With vacuum advance disconnected at the distributor and vacuum line plugged set timing. Standing in front of the car the manifold port is on your right. You can verify this with a vacuum gauge, if you don't have one, get one, it's a useful tuning tool.
Once you advance the timing you'll need to back down the idle RPM to a normal RPM, 700 to 800 out of gear 600 in gear or something close to those numbers.