Oil Question After Reading Sticky
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 187
Likes: 15
From: New York
Oil Question After Reading Sticky
I’ve taken a look at the recommended list of oils that have the correct zinc levels. After reading the first 250+ posts in that thread, which is now closed, I have a question about dino oils.
Since my car is burning more than a quart per 1,000 miles, I prefer to stick with conventional oil for my ‘72 small block. I’ve used 20w50 and have had no problems. After hearing the milkshake-through-a-straw analogy, I switched to 10w30, but I was burning through too much oil, so 10w40 seems to be in the Goldilocks zone for me.
According to the list in the sticky, Lucas Hot Rod and Classic is the only 10w40 dino oil on the list. Driven Racing Oil is on the list, but not their 10w40. I’ve been using Lucas for about 5 years now. The sticky mentions that Lucas contains over 2,000 ppm zinc which is higher than in some racing oils and it was also said that racing oils are not intended for 3k mile oil changes or constant start/stop cycles.
Since I only put about 1,500 miles a year in my car and I change the oil every fall, is Lucas a good oil to stick with? What about the Driven oil?
Here is the link to Driven:
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/h...t-rod-oilhtml/
Thanks,
Logan
Since my car is burning more than a quart per 1,000 miles, I prefer to stick with conventional oil for my ‘72 small block. I’ve used 20w50 and have had no problems. After hearing the milkshake-through-a-straw analogy, I switched to 10w30, but I was burning through too much oil, so 10w40 seems to be in the Goldilocks zone for me.
According to the list in the sticky, Lucas Hot Rod and Classic is the only 10w40 dino oil on the list. Driven Racing Oil is on the list, but not their 10w40. I’ve been using Lucas for about 5 years now. The sticky mentions that Lucas contains over 2,000 ppm zinc which is higher than in some racing oils and it was also said that racing oils are not intended for 3k mile oil changes or constant start/stop cycles.
Since I only put about 1,500 miles a year in my car and I change the oil every fall, is Lucas a good oil to stick with? What about the Driven oil?
Here is the link to Driven:
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/h...t-rod-oilhtml/
Thanks,
Logan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
First, the wording such as "Racing Oil or not for street use or may not meet DOT stds, is all BS to keep the Govt happy and the "tree huggers happy. It's the Govt EPA that took away our Zinc to begin with, so the oil companies are appeasing them with cleverly written labels. Don't worry about it, just make sure you have Zinc. It's not just for cams either. The main bearings, cam bearings and rockerarms all benefit from Zinc also.
The term Racing Oil used be straight 40 or straight 50 weight, back in the day. Not exactly something for occasional street use.
Lucas Hot Rod Classic is a wonderful oil. Look for sales on the 5 QT jugs. Sometimes eBay, sometimes Summit and even Amazon runs a sale.
The term Racing Oil used be straight 40 or straight 50 weight, back in the day. Not exactly something for occasional street use.
Lucas Hot Rod Classic is a wonderful oil. Look for sales on the 5 QT jugs. Sometimes eBay, sometimes Summit and even Amazon runs a sale.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,429
Likes: 956
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
I used Driven Break in oil on the first firing of the Rebuilt/upgraded L-82 355 roller cam engine in 2014 on the expert advice of my builder who came to my house for a house call when it was initially started. After the 30 minute breakin and short test drive to seat the rings, again, under his expert advice and experience, I switched to Driven Conventional 15W-50 which to me seems would be your sweat sport with your engine, not 10W-40. I used the Driven Conventional 15W-50 for the first 500 miles and now run synthetic Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula but our engines are very different. Finishing up driving season #5 and the engine is flawless and burns zero oil...............
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 187
Likes: 15
From: New York
I’m not sure what it was when running 20w50. That was before I fixed the gauge. I can say that right now, while running 10w40, pressure hovers around 65 psi on throttle when cold and 35 psi on idle. Once warm, I’m looking at around 30-35 psi when on throttle and about 10 psi at idle.
Thanks for the heads up on Mobil 1. But due to current oil consumption, I would rather stick to conventional oil.
Thanks for the heads up on Mobil 1. But due to current oil consumption, I would rather stick to conventional oil.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,564
Likes: 2,058
From: Golden Colorado
Lucas Hot Rod Oil
I’m not sure what it was when running 20w50. That was before I fixed the gauge. I can say that right now, while running 10w40, pressure hovers around 65 psi on throttle when cold and 35 psi on idle. Once warm, I’m looking at around 30-35 psi when on throttle and about 10 psi at idle.
Thanks for the heads up on Mobil 1. But due to current oil consumption, I would rather stick to conventional oil.
Thanks for the heads up on Mobil 1. But due to current oil consumption, I would rather stick to conventional oil.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 320
From: palm springs ca
I have used 20/50 racing oil since it came out. I talked to the tech way back then and he said things were a bit different. What sticks to mind was anti foam, and temp. I have had nothing but luck with it and will say that the temp that it will stay as a oil and not look like a old frying pan is what I like best.
You don't get the carbon buildup under the rings. Now I do live in a warm climate and 20/50/ fits me well. I use it in air cooled engines that require 40 and 50 weight oil. There is NO black burnt on oil under the pistons, in the ring lands, inside the valve guides, and none under the valve cover at the exhaust side.
My engines stay as clean inside as when they were rebuilt. I noticed this mainly on the air cooled engines that run high cylinder head temps. When I pull the valve cover it's clean metal. I see other engines that resemble the burnt frying pan.
You may not agree, but it has worked for me since the 70's and I would not switch.
In the day MOBILE 1 was the hot ticket. They spent millions replacing aircraft engines.
Dom
You don't get the carbon buildup under the rings. Now I do live in a warm climate and 20/50/ fits me well. I use it in air cooled engines that require 40 and 50 weight oil. There is NO black burnt on oil under the pistons, in the ring lands, inside the valve guides, and none under the valve cover at the exhaust side.
My engines stay as clean inside as when they were rebuilt. I noticed this mainly on the air cooled engines that run high cylinder head temps. When I pull the valve cover it's clean metal. I see other engines that resemble the burnt frying pan.
You may not agree, but it has worked for me since the 70's and I would not switch.
In the day MOBILE 1 was the hot ticket. They spent millions replacing aircraft engines.
Dom
