Cam advice requested for BB
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
Cam advice requested for BB
I am getting my upcoming winter project ready for my 68 convert with NOM 454. I am considering changing from my hydraulic flat tappet cam (Lunati Voodo 268/276 degree .542/.554 inch lift) to a roller cam. Most people opt for a hydraulic roller, but I am leaning toward a mechanical roller cam. I spent most of my early days with mechanical lifters in a bunch of small block Fords, Chevys and many four cylinder and six cylinder British motors, so I do not mind periodic readjustment of valve lash. I would like to pick the most aggressive cam that is still drivable on the street. I have none of the vacuum-requiring systems like headlights, wiper cover and power brakes. My valve springs will accommodate .650 inch lift. For those of you who have mechanical roller cams, what are your suggestions? Other features of the motor: 0.030 over-bored. 10.2:1 CR. Heads are aluminum open chamber 119 cc, 320 cc intake runner square port, Weiand Stealth dual plane intake, roller rockers, electric fuel pump, HEI ignition, Hedman long tube headers, QFT 750 cfm carb. 4 speed with 3.36 rear axle. Suggestions?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,240
Likes: 1,013
From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY
Check lifter bore clearances if possible and use a high quality lifter with pressurized oil to the needle bearings or bushing if you go with one of the newer bushing lifters. Morel seem to be the closest to stock lifter diameter in reading on various forums. Make sure cam is ground on a Billet core.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
You could receive 15-20 responses from forum members about their "great cams". But unless your engine and driving purpose is an exact twin of theirs, its meaningless.
You don't need a cam that's just like someone elses because their engine is fairly close to your specs. You need a cam that is designed exactly for your specs.
Pick 2 or 3 of your favorite cam companies and tell them your specs and that you want the "most aggressive cam for street. Compare prices, go from there.
You don't need a cam that's just like someone elses because their engine is fairly close to your specs. You need a cam that is designed exactly for your specs.
Pick 2 or 3 of your favorite cam companies and tell them your specs and that you want the "most aggressive cam for street. Compare prices, go from there.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 18, 2018 at 03:27 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
I agree with the above... You need to get some recommendations from the pros. A solid roller in a street car is pretty wild, so it really needs to match your combo exactly. Not opinions like something that Billy Bob ran in his racing 350 back in 1975...
You are gonna need to replace the springs and setup the installed height regardless of what you have now. Solid roller setups needs a LOT more spring pressure, its not just about the lift and coil bind clearance.
You are gonna need to replace the springs and setup the installed height regardless of what you have now. Solid roller setups needs a LOT more spring pressure, its not just about the lift and coil bind clearance.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,402
Likes: 8,209
From: Napa Valley California
Everything suggested above is great advice.
You have been driving your car, you know your driving habits and performance needs, and only you know where you want to produce more torque and horse power.
Talk with the manufactures, tell them what you have and what you want and go with their suggestions.
You have been driving your car, you know your driving habits and performance needs, and only you know where you want to produce more torque and horse power.
Talk with the manufactures, tell them what you have and what you want and go with their suggestions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
Call Chris Straub and talk it over with him. He will take into account your goals and current parts. He can then offer a suggestion that will be more optimal for you compared to a cam companies off the shelf stuff.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,240
Likes: 1,013
From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY
Agree with Sigforty. I got my Morel bushing solids from Straub. Got my cam from Mike Jones at Jones cams. For what small cost increase over a shelf cam, Jones or Straub will give you a cam optimized for your parts and wants. Just need your head flow numbers. Told Jones I wanted 50 more hp and torque and a 500 rpm higher power peak over my previous solid flat tappet. On the Dyno afterward. Power went from 605 to 653, hp peak went from 6000 to 6500. Well worth it to use one of those two guys. And again, don’t skimp on lifters and springs. Jones spec’d a street roller for me so spring pressures aren’t off the charts but he wanted me to use a good Isky Circle track tool room spring. Not cheap but should last very well.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
Thanks to all for the advice. Some things I already suspected, but your input reinforced the info I had. I was not certain how much the manufacturers want to discuss specs with potential customers, but I will find out and hope they point me in the right direction. I also have "The General" Lee Edwards, former two-time IHRA national champion living a half mile down the road from me. He is retired from racing, but builds some really fierce racing engines and has been giving me occasional free advice. I'd have him build the engine, but I could not afford his high prices for a car that is a weekend driver.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
Agree with Sigforty. I got my Morel bushing solids from Straub. Got my cam from Mike Jones at Jones cams. For what small cost increase over a shelf cam, Jones or Straub will give you a cam optimized for your parts and wants. Just need your head flow numbers. Told Jones I wanted 50 more hp and torque and a 500 rpm higher power peak over my previous solid flat tappet. On the Dyno afterward. Power went from 605 to 653, hp peak went from 6000 to 6500. Well worth it to use one of those two guys. And again, don’t skimp on lifters and springs. Jones spec’d a street roller for me so spring pressures aren’t off the charts but he wanted me to use a good Isky Circle track tool room spring. Not cheap but should last very well.
I also used the Isky Endurance Tool steel springs on my hyd roller. They were on there for 21k miles and it was still pulling 6300 without a hint of float/instability. I'll be installing a new set on the refreshed motor...Killer springs.. I think they were $400 if I recall.