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From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
1968 C3 Broken Hood Release Instructions
New to me 1968 327ci 4 speed. First time I pulled on the internal hood release it totally came out of the holder with about 1 ft of wire on the handle. Finally figured out how to get the hood back open. This may not work on cars with power brakes as the module may be in the way. Also the cross cable to the passenger side needs to still be working.
1. Take a flashlight and look up thru the first or second driver's side gill opening (from front) and locate the driver side hood catch and release mechanism as pictured below. This will be on the bottom side of the hood above and just rearward of the master cylinder.
2. Keeping the flashlight on pointed in thru the first gill, take a long rod and push thru the second gill and push on the lever as shown toward the passenger side of the car. You should be able to catch the lever or the spring end. I used a light 7/8 diameter hollow copper rod about 48 inches long. Both hood sides will release if cross cable is still functioning.
3. I temporarily took the springs off of the two latches to ensure being able to open the hood until new parts come. I hooked them to a spot to keep the latch open. Hood will not latch shut in this condition and I would not recommend driving fast or far with the hood this way.
Easy once you know how!
Redvette2
Last edited by Redvette2; Sep 19, 2018 at 09:09 PM.
Reason: Additional information...
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Originally Posted by croaker
Will this work on 73 to 75 models too?
Not sure...depends if they changed the hood mechanism over the years or installed something in the way. I would look at your cars setup and see if you can see it from the side openings to determine.
Redvette2- Welcome to the world of the C3 poorly designed hood latch. You will find it is a problem 1) getting the hood open or 2) getting the hood to stay closed when the car hits bumps or 3) both. There are a number of threads on the forum that explain how to fix this problem. I had to deal with both issues on my 68 convert. Good luck on your new '68.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Originally Posted by ronarndt
Redvette2- Welcome to the world of the C3 poorly designed hood latch. You will find it is a problem 1) getting the hood open or 2) getting the hood to stay closed when the car hits bumps or 3) both. There are a number of threads on the forum that explain how to fix this problem. I had to deal with both issues on my 68 convert. Good luck on your new '68.
Ah-ha. That's why those two little springs on the latches are so tight...to help keep the lever closed and the hood from coming open!
Redvette2
Last edited by Redvette2; Oct 1, 2018 at 11:38 AM.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Originally Posted by derekderek
A gun cleaning rod is both thin and stiff enough to pop the hood thru the gills. Virtually everything else that size will just flex and bow.
Yep...I tried a yard stick and could not get enough pressure. The rod I used was a 4 ft. piece of hollow copper tubing left over from installing a new water heater.
Last edited by Redvette2; Oct 1, 2018 at 11:39 AM.
A last resort to getting the hood open is to remove the bolts holding the front hood hinges so you can move the hood around enough to get the latches to release. It is not a fun job that requires long arms lying on ones back to reach up thru the grill to get at the bolts. I did it once and needed a trip to the chiropractor afterwards.