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Those particular lifters won't help at all. They are anti-pump ups. You need the variable duration lifters, which have a very fast bleed-down at lower engine speeds. How much they help greatly depends on how much your engine is over-cammed. If it's a wee bit, then they'll help. If you're off by a lot, then you are putting a bandaid on what amounts to a traumatic amputation.
I've used Rhoads lifters, similar to the Crane's variable durations. They noticeably work down low and feel strong up top. However, the midrange punch gets compromised (SOTP-meter so take it FWIW). Different weight oils can be used to adjust the midrange a little. But pretty much, you gotta just live with whatever the bleed down rate is. Once I did a track test with different weight oils and was able to get a little over a tenth ET and a solid 1 mph improvement by just changing to a heavier weight oil.
I also started to mess with different rocker arm ratios w/the lifters. But I didn't get to far with that because I sold my Vette. The new owner (my track buddy) is currently trying out different combos. So maybe there will be more to be said about this later on.
If I were you, and $$ is a factor, try putting on a 1/2 set of those lifters only on the exhaust-side. I would think you would pick up some dynamic compression without hurting your midrange breathing (assuming you are using unported stock smog heads).
Hmmmm. I nor any cam manufactuer would recommend using new lifters on a used cam of any type of a flat tappet cam be it hydraulic lifter or solid lifter flat tappet design.
It seems a cam and lifter change is in order if you cannot live with the cam thats in the motor. Not really too much work and some nice cam and lifter sets in a flat tappet design can be had for less that a 100 dollar bill
Good to see a Mountainmotor post! Listen to him, he'll steer you straight.
Dogboy's cam is a mild Summit grind (214/224 @050 if I remember correctly). He's using it in a low compression motor ~8 to 1. I suspect the extra 10 degrees of exhaust duration is bleeding off some cylinder pressure down low which makes his off-idle throttle kind of "doggy". From 2000+ rpms the motor starts to wake up.
Cylinder heads would be the best solution but I think $$ is an issue.
Great info here with options that I never would have considered. I'm torn between cam swap and cyl head swap at this time. I don't want to spend alot on heads so used e bay heads may be considered or a new cam such as a cc256 or 252H???. Leaning toward cam swap because I can't get the cheap 2 piece cover to stop leaking. Oh yea as a side note I blew out my front drive shaft universal joint the other day as I nailed it to pass a truck on the hwy. Torque??
Try sticking as much lead in it as possible,,the low compression will let you by in doing this,,,do this with engine hot,run lead up until it cranks hard then retard just until it cranks well,,if not detonating you are good for the go after setting the curb idle back down
By chance do you have a Q-Jet?
Felpro .042 thick head gaskets ?
The cam is mild like a Edelbrock Performer,,lazy lobes
Head # 14022601, 58 cc, surfaced, 3 angle valve job, magnafluxed, would these help me or is it a waste? I have the 14034808 heads now, 76 cc's goodwrench crate heads. :cry