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I've got my engine out of the car and on a stand now, so it's DEFINITELY time to replace the RMS of my 79 L82; are there any good products that will help ensure that the stupid thing never leaks again or lasts as long as possible?
Any interesting new low friction materials I should be aware of?
I'm completely clueless about this subject right now other than my block's got a 2PC RMS and I need to replace it...
Make sure to put a dab of sealant where the 2 halves join together. Just like you put a dab in the corner of the intake manifold gaskets where they meet the rubber pieces.
some will offset the ends of the 2 halves. leave a little sticking out of the block on 1 side and a little sticking out on the rear main cap on the other side when you put it together.
Regarding 2 piece rear main seals, it's been my experience that wear on the crankshaft where the seal rides needs to be checked. If the crank is worn, replacing the seal will not correct the leak.
Regarding 2 piece rear main seals, it's been my experience that wear on the crankshaft where the seal rides needs to be checked. If the crank is worn, replacing the seal will not correct the leak.
My engine has the stock RMS on it (L82) -it's never been changed
I'm not actually sure that it's leaking, I was just assuming that it was given where the oil seemed to be dripping from. I can start to confirm later this week or next weekend after I pull the oil pan off of the motor. (Pretty busy this week.)
Even if it's not leaking, the car is almost 40 years old and my assumption is that while I have the engine out I should replace this thing now to avoid headaches later. -Anyone disagree?
Big question: Felpro advertises the "offset" lip SBC RMS as simply an "Improved Design"; based upon the feedback on here, I'm unclear whether the offset lip is appropriate for a crank with a low amount of wear (my engine only has 14.6k miles on it and honestly it's in fantastic shape internally- bores, even the tappets have very little wear) or just for cranks with significant wear that cause sealing issues.
If your crank doesn’t have a groove worn in it from the original, then you should use a regular seal. The offset is only for grooves worn in the cranks original seal position.
I agree with SIGFORTY , The Felpro 2912 is a better quality seal than the standard one. Considering what's involved in changing one out, the extra $15 you spend on the seal will be worth it in my opinion. Put it in as GM designed it to be put in, with a very small dab of sealant on the ends of the seal, and also at the ends of the main cap where it registers in the block.....the last 1/2"......very sparingly in the corners.