Car has never not started on first click. A couple months back I parked the car, went into the store came back out and pushed clutch to the floor and turned the key and nothing, not even a clicking noise. I got some help and pushed started it and it came to life. I drove to my next stop and when I came back it started fine. It continued to start fine all summer long. A couple days ago it failed to start as before. So I figured it was the neutral start switch on the clutch pedal. However finding one online has become an issue as they all seem to be back ordered.

So, being impatient I took a look at over riding the switch to confirm it was the problem. To do that I jumpered the switch at the cable extension that plugs into the switch assuming it would complete the circuit and the car would start. Still a no start, I had the trans in neutral and moved the clutch pedal in and out as well and still nothing. I have a switched ordered or i should say back ordered, but I want to at least confirm it is the issue.

My question is, would jumpering the switch as I did override it? What else to look at if it should be over ridden and should start? BTW, it's probably not the battery as I had it on a charger for several hours and it shows charged, cables are tight and it is rather new. Also, it will push start all day long and the alternator is good and has run fine all summer with the exception explained above.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Pat

 

If you jumpered the two wire plug after disconnecting it from the switch that will bypass the switch. It should then start no matter what the position of the clutch pedal is. With age the contacts in those switches wear causing you to have to press further and further down on the pedal until there is no contact made no matter how far in you press but if you jumpered the wire harness end of the connector and it still doesn't turn over then you have another problem.

 

Ignition switch? See if you are getting 12v at the wires for the clutch switch. If you are and jumpered the switch it is further on down the electrical line.

 

I'll check that this afternoon. Thanks.
I will say that with the e-brake on and trans in neutral when turning the key to start, even though I get no cranking or clicking I do get the red brake light to dim when turning ignition all the way forward to start the car.

 

Do you have this relay mounted on the orange bracket on the right side of the firewall?

 

I do not, The PO had deleted that.

 

You might want to check how the PO did the bypass.
Are the two wires soldered properly or twisted together causing corrosion, resistance and your intermediate start problem?

 

A little more detail. I am getting 12 volts at the clutch switch, but when I jumper the pigtail for that switch its still a no start, no clicking nothing. So I guess the clutch switch works and the problem lies after the switch. I am digging around online for the wiring diag. I have Docs It's sooo easy diagrams but they're not much help in isolating the problem.

Thanks,
Pat

 

The starter interlock bypass was only used on the early '75's
It's not shown on this 1975 internet schematic.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=YzN2cm1haWwuY 29tfHR1bWJsZXdlZWQtdHJhbnNtaXNzaW9ufGd4O jNmMGJjYWRiNTdjNjdkNTQ
The 1974 schematic does show the interlock wiring.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...TRkNTFkY2E0NmM

 

Thanks for diagrams. I am trying to figure out where the PO would have tied the LT Green / Black and Purple wires together. It's not at the location under hood. I looked under the dash and couldn't find anything that looked altered. Is there a point somewhere I can get a DVM hooked up to check for voltage after the Seat Belt Interlock? Right before this no start it started right up. I had to move it out of the garage to get access to a kegerator. Changed out a Keg and went to pull it back in and no start.
Pat

 

 

Since the 1975 schematic disappeared here it is again
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...WRiNTdjNjdkNTQ

Turning the key to START sends 12 volts to the CLUTCH switch on the purple white so if you have power at the clutch switch I'll guess that the ignition switch is good.

There is no telling where the PO hid the 'splice', best guess is near the original location.

 

Good call and a good place to check.

 

 

I agree, I am going to check the voltage at the starter when I get back to the shop. I have a stock type starter, probably a replacement. When I turn the key the ammeter dips as if it has a load.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help,
Pat

 

I've given this advice incorrectly in the past, but I'm convinced it is correct 80% of the time:

Check your battery.

Even if it is showing 12V, if it is worn out, it may not be able to source enough current to work. Otherwise, it sounds like you are well on your way to finding the issue.

The one time it wasn't the battery, it was the starter.

 

I just checked the voltage at the battery lead at the starter just to make sure i'm getting 12v and it was 12.5v. Then checked the lead to the solenoid and saw 9.70v, I double checked it and same 9.70v. The battery was replaced a year or so ago and I'm thinking it is fine as it shows 12v. I am wondering where a voltage drop between the clutch neutral switch at 12v and the starter solenoid at 9.7v would be showing up? If the fusible link were compromised / open what would the effect be?

I cracked my 74 chevy manual open and read up on the starter, etc.. It mentions at least 9v at the solenoid/starter terminal. I may just replace the starter at this point and clean up all the grease.
Pat

 

Let us know how it turns out Pat, have my interest.
Thank you.
David

 

Very likely the starter solenoid. It's a common problem.

 

I know it is 4 months later, but I just got around to replacing the starter this weekend and that was the issue. It now fires right up every time. Thx to all the responses and help figuring everything out.

Regards,
Pat