Choke heater --- does this normally get wired to IGNITION so it's powered up anytime the ignition is on? Is it typically hung off the coil + or what?

Idle-Up on carb -- is this to boost the idle when the AC is on, or what? Where's it normally connected?

WAIT< WAIT, I seem to remember this is for anti-dieseling, actually. Same question.

The top of my motor was this rat's nest of 16AWG solid core, white wire. Solid core? Seriously? In a high vibration environment???

I removed one piece after another not connected at one end or the other, lol, until I saw neither the choke heater nor the idle-up were powered by anything! One MIGHT have been miswired to the alternator through a fried diode, lol.

I'm glad I've got a mostly original car but 50 years of amateur wiring, radio installs, alternator & starter replacements (radio installer took down the dash lights and created a parasitc draw with a power antenna), etc have left their mark on my Voltmeter, lol.

 

Another gentleman on the forum provides free wiring diagrams...he sent me the one for my 1968. It is about 10 Mb so I can not attach it to a post or PM it on the forum. Post your email or PM me with it listed and I will send it to you.

Redvette2

 

If memory serves, '68 used a hot air heater on the choke- not electric. Carb changed? The idle solenoid was used on A/C cars too.

 

I agree the electric choke could be an aftermarket add-on.
Some have wired it to the YELLOW wire at the wiper motor.
Nothing else should go on the coil positive.

Blip the throttle to extend the anti-dieseling switch.
Set to the desired rpm.
When you turn the car off it will retract and close the throttle.

 

Yeah, Quadrajet, but not the original. Electric choke heat.

 

Thanks, got the diagrams but no help.

 

If it's an A/C car the solenoid should extend when the A/C is on.

 

wadenelson- welcome to the world of bubba wiring. My 68 convert had similar wiring problems like you are finding. I finally got tired of trying to match spliced or cut wires with the wiring diagram (get the large, laminated, correct color-coded diagram from classiccarwiring.com, Corvette Central or one of the other vendors) and bought new wiring harnesses. My blood pressure went down about ten points and I was able to wire up correctly gauges, wipers, backup switch, etc.

 

I have a 1970 and mine goes to the alt.

 

Some of the new alternators have an "R" (relay) terminal that provides power for choke heat, etc. (So I am told)

 

Not me, buddy! I like chasing wires that change colors & gauges in the center of a electrical-tape-mummified harness, locating buried splices, figuring out detour wiring by folks who didn't know what the hell they were doing, and examining entire wiring bundles spray-painted black (along with everything else in the engine bay that couldn't avoid the wrath of the rattle can!

I was out wire brushing and sanding wires this morning just so I could SEE what color they "used ta be!"

"What did YOU do today on your C3? "Sanded some wires..."

I've got the laminated schematics from Willcox. What a godsend!

I was literally at wits end a week ago chasing down a parasitic draw when I found it, went back to the schematic, and discovered that some mechanical engineer @ Chebrolet thought that fusing HALF of the wiper circuit, and running the other half unfused, would be a good way to wire it up.

(Along with making a small piece of metal hung off the bottom of the horn relay the centerpiece of the entire C3 electrical system)

I know it was a mechanical engineer because any EE who would have designed it that way would surely have been working for Lucas, not GM.

Having pulled the wiper fuse I was POSITIVE my parasitic draw couldn't be on that circuit! Surprise! (My finding it was a stroke of luck, or perhaps a result of my asking the Almighty the night before, on bended knee, for "a little assistance dealing with demonic possession of a vehicle in my garage."

He told me no other Exorcists were currently available and to get back on it.

Bubba wiring by a radio installer took down the instrument lights.... A failed power antenna CONTRIBUTED to a 3.0A parasitic draw....

Perhaps explaining why the vehicle had a battery disconnect on it when I bought it...

I get the wipers 100% working, shove the dash all back together, and now it doesn't work. You know what THAT means! An internally broken or chafed wire under the dash!

What did you say was the address for that new harness? LOL!!!

 

Remember, the wiper switch gets grounded via the upper console plate, so if there is corrosion on the switch or plate, that could be your problem.

 

My problem, if it's possible, seems backwards of that. When it's hanging by the wires, NOT grounded, it seems to work. Maybe something's swapped. More diagnosis needed!!!! (Someone in the past added a grounding wire from the metal dash to the switch mounting screw, so it SHOULD be good....right???) Perhaps a failed switch.

I just love taking a dash back out after using all three of my hands to successfully shove it back in.