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Whoever said changing booster takes 10 minutes is full of s***. I have been out there under dash for four hours and have only removed the four bolts, probably another four to remove the nut and bolt from brake pedal rod...let alone trying to get it all back together.
I can't see how the yoke comes apart from brake pedal, something up under there with cotter pin, don't know if that is the pin or if there is nut and bolt, just can't see around all the wires; vacuum hoses; wire connectors; steering wheel shaft...Oh wait, I do have shop manual maybe something in there.
I know how you feel, just pulled the column, pedal assembly, dash, and booster out of a 77 three days ago. Not fun at all, and now I will feel these aches and pains for weeks.
Hang in there. Is that one of those 77 recalled aluminum telescopic lock rings and horn button in that 2nd pic?
I can't see how the yoke comes apart from brake pedal, something up under there with cotter pin, don't know if that is the pin or if there is nut and bolt, just can't see around all the wires; vacuum hoses; wire connectors; steering wheel shaft...Oh wait, I do have shop manual maybe something in there.
Its attached to the pedal with a clip, you just bend back and slide it off.
I did see in shop manual it is a pin and clip so was able to pull it and remove booster. New one is on and master cylinder back on but although yoke is lined up on brake pedal, pin is now yet in and two top nuts are only finger tight...I quit for today, two many aches and pains to continue...I need a beer
Make sure the booster rod "fork" is attached to pedal (with the pin) or at least each side of the pedal before you tighten down the 4 booster nuts to firewall.
I have a manual and removed the seat, then the steering column which is easier than what some think. Then removed the dash. Didn't take long to do this. Voila, easy access to everything and no problem with the booster removal/install. But some guys just think it's easier to do it the "other" way. LOL!
I may do that if can't get things lined up to insert pin, need to replace several burnt out gauge light bulbs anyway.
Today tried again to insert pin and failed, going to lower steering column and pull dash, so far dash is loose two bolts out holding column but not dropping guessing I now need to remove the two at bottom of firewall, okay going back to try that to see what happens. No football on TV for me today
That didn't work...took the two nuts from plate at bottom of firewall but can't remove plate so still can't lower column...just lower column then pull dash loose book said, but that ain't happening and I am getting p*****
Last edited by San Diego Ron; 11-04-2018 at 05:52 PM.
Hey man been there done that. I have a '76. It took literally 2 days to complete and it sucked. Make sure to get new nuts; don't reuse the old ones. Getting the bolts out was fairly simple once I positioned the socket and extensions in the right angle. I used (3) 12" extensions (the top one taped nearest to the socket) with blue painters tape. I kept adding the extensions as I pushed the others up under the dash. Hopefully that makes sense. I used a swivel and deep socket taped together as well to put the nuts back on. The tape holds the position of the angle you are trying to achieve since you can't get your hands anywhere near them. The top right nut was a b*tch because the brake light sensor or whatever is attached to the brake lever and it below the nut making it impossible to see. Oh yea and the switch won't come off from down there since it's clipped in. Don't take it off! Not worth it. I spent about 3 hours here....on this one nut, no lie. I did not remove the switch. I got one or two nuts in on the bottom and then attached the clip on the pin for the clevis. That clip was easy to take off but required a small flat head screwdriver and a load of patience to put back on. I was able to maneuver my pointer finger up under the dash to align the nut with the bolt. I tried everything and literally the only thing that worked for the top right nut that's hidden, was to put tape in the socket, put the nut in there, and then carefully feed it up onto the bolt. Torque them down to whatever the service manual tells you. Should be in the back of the book. The pic below is how I had to get in there to get er done.
Last edited by patg84; 11-05-2018 at 12:07 AM.
Reason: added pic
Hey man been there done that. I have a '76. It took literally 2 days to complete and it sucked. Make sure to get new nuts; don't reuse the old ones. Getting the bolts out was fairly simple once I positioned the socket and extensions in the right angle. I used (3) 12" extensions (the top one taped nearest to the socket) with blue painters tape. I kept adding the extensions as I pushed the others up under the dash. Hopefully that makes sense. I used a swivel and deep socket taped together as well to put the nuts back on. The tape holds the position of the angle you are trying to achieve since you can't get your hands anywhere near them. The top right nut was a b*tch because the brake light sensor or whatever is attached to the brake lever and it below the nut making it impossible to see. Oh yea and the switch won't come off from down there since it's clipped in. Don't take it off! Not worth it. I spent about 3 hours here....on this one nut, no lie. I did not remove the switch. I got one or two nuts in on the bottom and then attached the clip on the pin for the clevis. That clip was easy to take off but required a small flat head screwdriver and a load of patience to put back on. I was able to maneuver my pointer finger up under the dash to align the nut with the bolt. I tried everything and literally the only thing that worked for the top right nut that's hidden, was to put tape in the socket, put the nut in there, and then carefully feed it up onto the bolt. Torque them down to whatever the service manual tells you. Should be in the back of the book. The pic below is how I had to get in there to get er done.
This is a real life description of the "other" way. I had mine all done in about 3 hrs by removing the steering column and dash and no cuts or bruises. There is a poster somewhere that claims he got it done in 20(?} minutes. Impossible!
Well I haven't given up, just taking couple days off to rest up these 77 year old thin skinned arms that are bruised and bleeding and heal the aches and pains. Going to remove dash pad to replace bulbs and see if I can get a better angle to get that pin inserted and secured...maybe tomorrow. Sun visors need attention too so maybe I'll be able to get it all done at once.
I counted over 60 mosquito bits on my forearms after the pic you see, partly because I started late in the day after work and I just wanted it done and forgot bug spray. I'm still here lol
Finally got the pin set, tomorrow I'll try to get the clip on the end of pin then get this thing back together. Got in there by lowering column lower bracket.
Well that job is wrapping up even though a bit longer than 15 minutes, removing booster was not a problem and didn't take long and didn't require tearing car apart, putting the new one in where it all fell apart. Went in easy enough trouble was for life of me could not get that pin and clip to cooperate, a really snug fit on that brake pedal and just couldn't get it started, ended up taking everything apart and finally made room to tap pin in with a small hammer and did use long (12") needle nosed pliers to get clip on after many tries. With everything still apart cleaning, painting, changing light bulbs and checking wiring so taking my time with this...another day or two. Maybe should be embarrassed taking so long for a 15 minute job but just glad I was able to get it done and I am happy with that.
Hey, you got it done yourself! It's not a 15 minute job by any stretch of the imagination. However, I will eat crow when anyone posts a video of getting the booster out in 15 minutes. Anyone care to take up the challenge and post their video?
11-03-2018, 04:02 PM
1977 Brake Booster
