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getting the trailing arm bolts out

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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 04:32 PM
  #21  
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[QUOTE=resdoggie;1598305876]Do not dick around with penetrants, punches, hammers, cussing, etc.

I plan to keep the cussing part of this procedure.

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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 06:41 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Mooser

Buy longer than you think to get into that pocket better.
About $20 worth of blades, only the very ends get worn out but they're more or less toast after the job. Carbide are nice and cut a faster but it'll be more or less toast after the job as well so it's a time ~ money thing
M
I think you could take a cut-off wheel and shorten then an inch and get more life out of them.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 06:52 PM
  #23  
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More of that time / money stuff. If I remember right I kept the one on the left and added to my metal scrap barrel with the rest Most had been bent more than once when they'd bind in the cut, the one on the right was probably the worse based on how it's laying on the floor there
M
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 06:59 PM
  #24  
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99 percent of the time Sawzall blades are worn out near the tang where the shoe is located. It is rare in most cases (not C3 cases) that the tip is worn out. I’d keep all those blades as the teeth are still good where the shoe is and most cutting is done.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 09:52 PM
  #25  
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Didn't have much time to work on this today, but managed to get one set of shims out. On a whim I decided to smack them and and they moved. Took about 15 minutes of working them back and forth, but they finally pulled out.


Not bad after 38 years

Meanwhile some mission creep occurred at Lowes. Went to get a Bosch sawzall ($119) and 4 ah battery ($60 - a rip, but used to be $99) as none comes with it. Already have the charger and a couple 1.4 ah bats. Got there and found that if I bought a $229 combo pack hammer drill and drill/driver which comes with two 4 ah batteries and a charger, I could then get the sawzall I wanted for free. Seemed like a good deal - basically for $50 more than I planned to spend I got the drill motors and an extra 4 ah bat. I'm kind of hoping the rest of the shims put up a fight so I can tackle them with the saw.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 10:22 PM
  #26  
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One of these blades worked great for me.....


Brian
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Old Nov 11, 2018 | 06:58 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by vince vette 2
I'm kind of hoping the rest of the shims put up a fight so I can tackle them with the saw.
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Old Nov 11, 2018 | 09:16 AM
  #28  
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You only need to make two cuts, one per side. Cut the bolt on the inboard side of the bushing. With the nut removed from the bolt on the outboard end, the two bolt pieces and bushing should fall out. Also, as the teeth wear down on the tip of the blade, cut the tip off i.e. shorten the blade, and go at it again.
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 08:58 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Wee
One of these blades worked great for me.....


Brian
Diablos' that I've used perform well also!

Steve
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 02:10 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Do not dick around with penetrants, punches, hammers, cussing, etc. Proceed directly with a sawzall and cut through the shims and bolt.
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 02:22 PM
  #31  
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For a job like this where you will be doing extended cutting, I would recommend a corded Sawzall. A battery powered one will work but you will go through batteries/charges. Definitely a byatch of a job.
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 03:51 PM
  #32  
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man was i lucky. my TA bolts pulled right out
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 07:31 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by The Punisher
man was i lucky. my TA bolts pulled right out

I am hoping for this ^^^^^^^^^^ when the time comes for the removal.....

I suspect mine will not put up too much of a fight since the last 35 years the car has hardly ever seen water......otherwise corded sawzall
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 09:10 PM
  #34  
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[QUOTE=ronarndt;1598314091]
Originally Posted by resdoggie
Do not dick around with penetrants, punches, hammers, cussing, etc.

I plan to keep the cussing part of this procedure.
Works for me
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 09:37 PM
  #35  
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I feel very fortunate I’ve been spraying PB in the pocket for about a year . Every time I’m in that area ,mine came right out.
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
You only need to make two cuts, one per side. Cut the bolt on the inboard side of the bushing. With the nut removed from the bolt on the outboard end, the two bolt pieces and bushing should fall out. Also, as the teeth wear down on the tip of the blade, cut the tip off i.e. shorten the blade, and go at it again.
Got one inboard side bolt cut. The head fell out. I took the nut off the other side. But pounding on the bolt sticking out the outboard side is not getting the bushing to move out. Am I missing something here, other than enough money to pay someone to do all this?
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:21 PM
  #37  
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The bolts tend to be stuck in the bushing not so much in the shims. Usually that's why you need to cut both sides as the center of the bolt is firmly stuck inside the bushing.
M
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:45 PM
  #38  
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The bolt rusts to the inner sleeve of the bushing. Cut both sides and remove the trailing arm.
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:08 PM
  #39  
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Never mind.



Just decided to cut the outboard part of the screw. 1 down, one to go.



Here's a closeup of the bushing. Inside it still seems pretty solid. Is that just deceptive.

90,000 miles, 38 years
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:11 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Wee
One of these blades worked great for me.....


Brian
Thanks for the post. I bought one of the Diablo's. It cut through the bolt in under 2 minutes. That included stopping a few times to let it cool and drop some oil on it.

Last edited by vince vette 2; Nov 14, 2018 at 08:17 PM.
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