My new 72 convertible's top and weatherstrip needs to be replaced. It has some tears and doesn't meet the windows. How DIY is that project if I buy one of the precut tops?

 

Its time consuming and tedious and a lot of tugging. Easier if you do it in an warm environment. I had to "persuade " my top to stretch out to meet the bow header latches and rear deck attachment.

 

I did mine recently. First time. Followed Al Knoch video. Thanks C69vete! Came out just fine. I used an electric stapler that made it a lot easier. Two different staple lengths. Also a heat gun is all but mandatory. The tack strips that came with it were not sized right. I had to augment them. I also had to replace some of the tabs that retain the front tack strip because of rust.

 

THE VERY FIRST THING YOU MUST CHECK IS>>>>>>>

the height of your new top from the back corner near side window on the deck from the bottom of that seam at that corner to the bottom of the seam where it turns over top of the side window to go forward.....

I bought my car with a top on it, fine, first replacement was a damn MESS in that I found out too damn late that it was too short forcing the canvass down overhanging the side window.....
it stayed that way all butchered up for some 5-6 years, second replacement I did myself and it fits fine....
not that my install was all that purrfect....but that measure has to be 11" not one fraction less

imagine a letter Z bottom left corner to bottom of the topside horizontal piece, assuming the slant is more straight of course....

so measure the new top first,

 

I'm installing one right now on a 72. To me they are not that bad, just a bit time consuming.

I'll add some tidbits for now, I'm planning on doing a write up about this on my tech site down the road.

I will say this... I will only sell and install Knoch tops, they come with the pads, straps, hold in cord, nail on, and the two rivets required to attach the pull springs to the front bow. I will only sell and install CRC weatherstripping.

If you have a hardtop... put it on the car first and adjust the glass to fit the hardtop, then install the soft top to the car.

When you do a soft you have to make sure the main pivot rivets are tight enough, if they are loose and floppy your top will be loose and floppy. If the rivets are loose, we have a tool here we use to compress them tighter or you can buy replacements and re-install them.

I've seen tops installed with Swingline staplers, however using one makes this job very hard. You can use an electric stapler and make the job easier, I have a commercial air stapler that I use, and it's made by Fasco... (I run it at around 45-50 psi, any higher and you'll blow the staples though the material) I use three different size staples depending on which top I'm doing and what year.. starting off...they are all 3/8" staples... the lengths are 1/2 (rarely use), 3/8 and 1/4" long. I highly advise using a pneumatic stapler though, it makes the job easier.

You never start the top installation from the middle and for those that are paying to have a top put on... ask the guy before you give him the car where he starts... Starting in the middle makes for a poor looking installation.

Before you remove the rear bow you take a measurement from the main pivot bolt on c1-2 cars and on c3 from the end of the bow to the side of the vertical metal frame (the part behind your head). Then we put this measurement on the rear bow in a paint pencil so we don't forget it. When you start to put the top on the rear bow you go to the first stitch and measure back on the outside of the top.... then make a small chalk mark or pencil mark on it (pencil works best).



You then start the installation of the top at this point in relation to the end of the rear bow. This assures you that the top has enough material to go around the vertical support. Once you install about 8" of the top to the rear bow on both sides, you then go to the middle and work your way out. The top sometimes will pull out on you but if you take an old spark plug wire, clean it up... you can wedge it in there to hold it until you install the rear weatherstrip and hold in cord. Before you install the top to the frame you must install the straps first.

To install the rear hold in cord... and I learned this trick from Al a very long time ago... You wipe the top side of the weatherstrip with oil, we then take ear swabs and dip them in the oil. Once we do this, we wipe the inside lower area of the rear bow weatherstrip with a light (and I do mean light) coating of oil. (you don't want this in excess or it'll run out).. I then take a rag and wipe down the hold in cord... yes... with regular old oil... you only want a thin coat and if you do it this way you can install the rear bow to the top, and the rear weatherstrip in about 20 minutes.... and that's the hard part... Years ago I used to use soap, soapy water or whatever.. the job was miserable.

Another mistake I see made is that when you install the header weatherstrip, the end screws are supposed to pass through the lapping material on the top. (you'll see what I mean when you install it. A lot of shops will just trim this away, but the screw is supposed to pass through this.

The top kits will come with instructions and the pads are marked where the bows are to be stapled. However, I always double check my measurements to the frame instead of trusting the lines on the pads.

I've got to scoot tonight, so tomorrow if I get time I'll post more. Or maybe I'll go head and do the write up. There are some other good tricks to this... I just don't have time tonight.

Or.. another suggestion is Al's video on how to do the installations... You might want to pick up a copy of that and just sit back and watch. Some things I do a bit differently than he does but for the most part it'll walk you through the process.

Willcox

Website https://willcoxcorvette.com/
Tech Page http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/

Please bump our sale threads if you get a chance..

 

 

Here is the one I liked and used:
part 1:

http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3.html

part 2:

http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair3b.html

another one that was informative:

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/33283/

Kinda of reminded me of re upholstering a stuffed chair.

Hope this might help.

 

I'm not done with this, I've got a ton more pictures to put in place but for now I believe it to be fairly accurate as to how to install a top with tricks

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...tall-68-75.pdf

 

Very nice writeup!! I wish I had it when I did mine years ago!

 

Thank you... I'm not done with it yet but there is enough info on there to get the top properly installed. I have so many pictures to upload to this but I've been working on this for two days so I'm taking a break..

Willcox

 

I did mine DYI. I used Al Knoch video and I wouldn't say it's easy but it's not hard. Like others said it's time consuming etc. I suggest getting fiber board tack strips over the plastic ones. The staples hold better. Also I used stainless steel staples and my hand-held staple gun without any problems. I bought Al Knoch cloth top as I like the look and feel better.
Results:

 

Awesome Job..

 

Ya, but as always there are some things I could have done better in hindsight. I guess that just comes with doing a lot of them but as an only one time job for a DYI you'll never get that experience.
With my experience doing my top I'm trying to convince my cousin, who has a 1972 Chevelle Convertible, to let me do his. He has a big rip on the passenger side over the back 1/4 window. I think I can do it as I've looked at it and it's very similar to my top only a lot bigger and it attaches at the back differently.

 

If you used the video for yours then you know the trick to the rear bow.... and this measurement is so critical to doing the installation. In my write up and in my post I always say to ask the installer if they start in the middle... this is a set up question because if they do... RUN....

I hate to say it, but we can do the job in about 6 hours start to finish, but we've done them over and over and that oil trick for the rear bow weatherstrip and that measurement from the rear bow end to the vertical metal..... is a key to getting the job done fast and accurate..... I actually like doing them but then I also hate doing them.. kind of an oxymoron... They hurt my hands now. I've got 4 more to do by years end and not looking forward to them. I have one scheduled for the spring and when I do this one it'll probably be my last one. I plan to video it from start to finish.

E

 

When your done with your write up , maybe I'll sit down and read it again, and consider if I want to do this mysself. My current Bubba top is wrinkled, crooked and bunched which cause the rear window to seperate, and he didnt put the extra fabric piece in the front so you can see his mistakes. I'll add it to my winter list

scott

 

Got distracted, but thank you all for all the great information. Had to deal with some other drive-ability issues first, and was able to make some adjustments to the top and windows which I think will do me for a bit. We'll see how it goes.

 

And since I haven't posted any pics of my new ride yet, here's one as a thank you for all the help ;-)

 

 

While my pdf doesn't have all the pictures I'd normally have... if you follow it t a Tee............... you can install the top.perfectly.. I'll update it with more pictures when I get time.

Willcox

 

Wilcox knows way more than I do, but I was told by and experienced upholsterer here that Robbins tops are the best. He has had fitment problems with Al Knoch and won't buy from them anymore.