OldCarBum

Les

Years ago I used to hit the drag strip a little bit with my little 439. I installed the Drag Vette half shafts and their safety loops. I also got their driveshaft loop but never did install it. At your power level it wouldn't be a bad idea at all. I had seen photos of the amount of damage done when half shaft U joints let go and I figured it wasn't worth the risk of hurting my car that badly. Your 496 will be a lot of fun. Enjoy.

Rodnok1

Oh I'd put them in, I plan on it as I'm always dumping a clutch and don't enjoy parts hitting me when I do.

REELAV8R

427Hotrod

First I'd spend the money on heavier wall halfshafts and driveshaft with good solid joints...and THEN worry about loops.

Prevention before protection.

JIM

sambrand

nah whenever you go over or around 400 ponies the loops are just 5 pounds of insurance, well worth the cost and weight if you ever need it, with so much custom work you have invested I would def add it to your build. , heavier joints are a very good suggestion but even these are going to be very stressed and can fail, 600 ft lbs is not anything to underestimate, theres considerable kinetic energy released ina shaft failure, most people don't realize how dangerous this is, props for thinking ahead!

Cool95vette

I have driveshaft and halfshaft loops on my car. They're a lot of piece of mind for only a little bit of money.

OldCarBum

GTR1999

Some mount on the cross member and end up about the middle of the 1/2 shaft. Others mount off the trailing arm and are closer to the arm. Tom's used to sell the weld/bolt on loops, I am not sure they are still around. I had a NOS set I sold last year that we never installed. We have used the TA mount type and when we sheared solid spicers, both inner/out LH side it tore up the loop, ripping the weld apart. It did protect the body but was instant junk, along with the spicers, and inner axles.

Not dropping the hammer at 4-5kRPM with a manual trans will keep things in order, as Jim can certainly attest to.

The Tremic TKO 500 came with a 1310 slip yoke, that twisted in 2 passes along with the stock driveshaft. We moved up to a 1350 slip yoke from Mark Williams ($250), custom built driveshaft, and I built a 1480 12 bolt with 1350 billet pinion yoke, that took care of that. Scattershield dialed in is a must have.

JohnRR

What diameter driveshaft did you go with? Aluminum or Steel?

Thanks,
John

CA-Legal-Vette

OldCarBum

JohnRR

Thanks for the info. I'll call them and do the same for my new setup.
John

gkull

What always concerned me was high rpm's in OD. I was competing in open road racing and Bonneville. Let's say that you can turn over 6400 rpm's with a. 64 OD. Your drive shaft speed might be 10,000 rpm

that scared me into running a drive shaft front hoop, chromoly DS, 12 point bolts and billet steel u joint caps

GTR1999

I would have to check with my son, it is his car, but I believe it was 2.250 or 2.50 steel. Slight tunnel glass work was needed due to the large 1350 slip yoke. Nothing the carpet didn't cover though

GTR1999

Tom's loops, in my opinion, were the best. I have broken an outer USA NAPA zerk joint with no abuse shifting at 3k RPM, this was well before China opened their doors. The TA mount loop worked to a point. I can't say I was impressed by the construction and if I recall the lifetime warranty didn't apply due to abuse or racing application, why would I need a loop in a non abusive application? I believe my son installed a new one but given the poor customer service at the time I sure wouldn't have used them again. NOTE: vendor/Mfg not mentioned. Just check your welds.

What is a common point of failure? With a stock drivetrain, 300-400hp and street use most of the factory parts are fine. Yes, certain years have issues regardless of use but overall they held up pretty good. The equation changes once the power reaches the 450+ mark and the car is pushed harder. Drag racing always shock loads the drivetrain and breaks parts. This will root out the weakest area all the time from a stock Muncie, Super T10, slip yokes, joints, frame bracket to snubber, 1/2 shafts, posi cases, and outer axles. Many guys are running power levels double that of the intended usage from 50 years ago.

ajrothm

I have the DragVette half shaft loops, they are cheap, clear everything easily back there and easy to install...Really no reason to NOT run them. Any u-joint has the potential to break. I don't however, have the main driveshaft loop, I don't really see how it can clear the driveshaft honestly as I have about 1/4-3/8" clearance on the passenger side of the tunnel with my larger 2.5" OD drive shaft. But I would definitely run one if you can fit it. That being said, by all means, install a good driveshaft and half shafts first and hopefully you never "need" the loops.

Check out FT Wayne Clutch and Driveline for heavy duty driveshafts and half shafts for C3s.... They make nice stuff and very cost efficient.

gkull

I bought the Lakewood loop. It is made for bolting to the floor. I welded it up to the tranny cross member. I was worried about my butt being beat up from a flailing broken off drive shaft at 200 mph.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-18000/overview/

C6_Racer_X

You might also consider a scatter shield or net for the bell housing.

One of the worst leg injuries I ever saw working at the track was when a big block C3 shattered a clutch and pieces came through the floor. Broke both the man's legs badly, and he was in the hospital a while and physical therapy for a long time after that.

scottjamison

Are there any half shaft loops out there without suspension mods? I would love to get the loops but already have my suspension done.