Safety Loops
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,321
Likes: 8,125
From: Napa Valley California
Safety Loops
As many of you know, I'm building my 73, stroking the big block to 496 with an estimated 600+ ft lbs of torque.
Swapping the auto for a TKO-600RR and upgrading the rear end with 3.36 gears.
Im stiffening the chassis, upgrading the suspension to coil overs all around and many other upgrades throughout the car.
Ill be using the car for street driving, mountain, coastal, and foothill winding roads and maybe an occasional vintage road race track day.
I won't be doing hard launches and will probably never run the drag strip.
Ive been planning to install Van Steels safety loops around the chromoly drive shaft and chromoly half shafts.
Does this seem like overkill to anyone?
We all know I will be putting my foot into the throttle once in a while and I feel the additional safety couldn't hurt.
Your thoughts and comments would help.
Thanks.
Swapping the auto for a TKO-600RR and upgrading the rear end with 3.36 gears.
Im stiffening the chassis, upgrading the suspension to coil overs all around and many other upgrades throughout the car.
Ill be using the car for street driving, mountain, coastal, and foothill winding roads and maybe an occasional vintage road race track day.
I won't be doing hard launches and will probably never run the drag strip.
Ive been planning to install Van Steels safety loops around the chromoly drive shaft and chromoly half shafts.
Does this seem like overkill to anyone?
We all know I will be putting my foot into the throttle once in a while and I feel the additional safety couldn't hurt.
Your thoughts and comments would help.
Thanks.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,094
Likes: 990
From: Sierra Foothills CA
Years ago I used to hit the drag strip a little bit with my little 439. I installed the Drag Vette half shafts and their safety loops. I also got their driveshaft loop but never did install it. At your power level it wouldn't be a bad idea at all. I had seen photos of the amount of damage done when half shaft U joints let go and I figured it wasn't worth the risk of hurting my car that badly. Your 496 will be a lot of fun. Enjoy. 
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,014
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
First I'd spend the money on heavier wall halfshafts and driveshaft with good solid joints...and THEN worry about loops.
Prevention before protection.
JIM
Prevention before protection.
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; Nov 17, 2018 at 02:10 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 297
Likes: 43
nah whenever you go over or around 400 ponies the loops are just 5 pounds of insurance, well worth the cost and weight if you ever need it, with so much custom work you have invested I would def add it to your build. , heavier joints are a very good suggestion but even these are going to be very stressed and can fail, 600 ft lbs is not anything to underestimate, theres considerable kinetic energy released ina shaft failure, most people don't realize how dangerous this is, props for thinking ahead!
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
Some mount on the cross member and end up about the middle of the 1/2 shaft. Others mount off the trailing arm and are closer to the arm. Tom's used to sell the weld/bolt on loops, I am not sure they are still around. I had a NOS set I sold last year that we never installed. We have used the TA mount type and when we sheared solid spicers, both inner/out LH side it tore up the loop, ripping the weld apart. It did protect the body but was instant junk, along with the spicers, and inner axles.
Not dropping the hammer at 4-5kRPM with a manual trans will keep things in order, as Jim can certainly attest to.
The Tremic TKO 500 came with a 1310 slip yoke, that twisted in 2 passes along with the stock driveshaft. We moved up to a 1350 slip yoke from Mark Williams ($250), custom built driveshaft, and I built a 1480 12 bolt with 1350 billet pinion yoke, that took care of that. Scattershield dialed in is a must have.
Not dropping the hammer at 4-5kRPM with a manual trans will keep things in order, as Jim can certainly attest to.
The Tremic TKO 500 came with a 1310 slip yoke, that twisted in 2 passes along with the stock driveshaft. We moved up to a 1350 slip yoke from Mark Williams ($250), custom built driveshaft, and I built a 1480 12 bolt with 1350 billet pinion yoke, that took care of that. Scattershield dialed in is a must have.
Last edited by GTR1999; Nov 17, 2018 at 11:12 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 459
From: Lititz PA
The Tremec TKO 500 came with a 1310 slip yoke, that twisted in 2 passes along with the stock driveshaft. We moved up to a 1350 slip yoke from Mark Williams ($250), custom built driveshaft, and I built a 1480 12 bolt with 1350 billet pinion yoke, that took care of that. Scattershield dialed in is a must have.
Thanks,
John
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,690
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Some mount on the cross member and end up about the middle of the 1/2 shaft. Others mount off the trailing arm and are closer to the arm. Tom's used to sell the weld/bolt on loops, I am not sure they are still around. I had a NOS set I sold last year that we never installed. We have used the TA mount type and when we sheared solid spicers, both inner/out LH side it tore up the loop, ripping the weld apart. It did protect the body but was instant junk, along with the spicers, and inner axles.
.
.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,321
Likes: 8,125
From: Napa Valley California
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 459
From: Lititz PA
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
What always concerned me was high rpm's in OD. I was competing in open road racing and Bonneville. Let's say that you can turn over 6400 rpm's with a. 64 OD. Your drive shaft speed might be 10,000 rpm
that scared me into running a drive shaft front hoop, chromoly DS, 12 point bolts and billet steel u joint caps
that scared me into running a drive shaft front hoop, chromoly DS, 12 point bolts and billet steel u joint caps
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
I would have to check with my son, it is his car, but I believe it was 2.250 or 2.50 steel. Slight tunnel glass work was needed due to the large 1350 slip yoke. Nothing the carpet didn't cover though
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
What is a common point of failure? With a stock drivetrain, 300-400hp and street use most of the factory parts are fine. Yes, certain years have issues regardless of use but overall they held up pretty good. The equation changes once the power reaches the 450+ mark and the car is pushed harder. Drag racing always shock loads the drivetrain and breaks parts. This will root out the weakest area all the time from a stock Muncie, Super T10, slip yokes, joints, frame bracket to snubber, 1/2 shafts, posi cases, and outer axles. Many guys are running power levels double that of the intended usage from 50 years ago.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
I have the DragVette half shaft loops, they are cheap, clear everything easily back there and easy to install...Really no reason to NOT run them. Any u-joint has the potential to break. I don't however, have the main driveshaft loop, I don't really see how it can clear the driveshaft honestly as I have about 1/4-3/8" clearance on the passenger side of the tunnel with my larger 2.5" OD drive shaft. But I would definitely run one if you can fit it. That being said, by all means, install a good driveshaft and half shafts first and hopefully you never "need" the loops.
Check out FT Wayne Clutch and Driveline for heavy duty driveshafts and half shafts for C3s.... They make nice stuff and very cost efficient.
Check out FT Wayne Clutch and Driveline for heavy duty driveshafts and half shafts for C3s.... They make nice stuff and very cost efficient.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I bought the Lakewood loop. It is made for bolting to the floor. I welded it up to the tranny cross member. I was worried about my butt being beat up from a flailing broken off drive shaft at 200 mph.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-18000/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-18000/overview/
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 4,786
Likes: 425
From: North Georgia, USA
You might also consider a scatter shield or net for the bell housing.
One of the worst leg injuries I ever saw working at the track was when a big block C3 shattered a clutch and pieces came through the floor. Broke both the man's legs badly, and he was in the hospital a while and physical therapy for a long time after that.
One of the worst leg injuries I ever saw working at the track was when a big block C3 shattered a clutch and pieces came through the floor. Broke both the man's legs badly, and he was in the hospital a while and physical therapy for a long time after that.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 774
Likes: 375
From: Seattle WA
I have the DragVette half shaft loops, they are cheap, clear everything easily back there and easy to install...Really no reason to NOT run them. Any u-joint has the potential to break. I don't however, have the main driveshaft loop, I don't really see how it can clear the driveshaft honestly as I have about 1/4-3/8" clearance on the passenger side of the tunnel with my larger 2.5" OD drive shaft. But I would definitely run one if you can fit it. That being said, by all means, install a good driveshaft and half shafts first and hopefully you never "need" the loops.
Check out FT Wayne Clutch and Driveline for heavy duty driveshafts and half shafts for C3s.... They make nice stuff and very cost efficient.
Check out FT Wayne Clutch and Driveline for heavy duty driveshafts and half shafts for C3s.... They make nice stuff and very cost efficient.