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I just put on some wilwood d8-6 and d8-4 calipers. I bled the brakes and now the drivers rear caliper is is lockex up. I can loosen the two mounting bolts and it frees up the rotor to spin. Did i miss something installing or bleeding these for this to happen?
I have had to use spacers on some of the Wilwwod calipers. Make sure the rotor is centered n between the caliper. If it is off the pad is just hard on the rotor and will be locked up.
Did you change the brake hoses at the same time? They can fail internally and cause issues.
Otherwise, I might suspect your caliper mounts. When I had my trailing arms rebuilt, one mount was bent, the other cracked. Brakes worked fine before the rebuild.
My car is in the middle of a little make-over, from ls/4l70 swap to new wiring to offset trailing arms and obviously brakes. Rear brake lines are old minus the wilwood braided hose section at the caliper.
I'll go out in a bit and see if a spacer/washer (or a few) will work. Right when the caliper mounting bolts slightly loosened up the rotor begins to spin (w/ car on jack stands and running in gear).
My car is in the middle of a little make-over, from ls/4l70 swap to new wiring to offset trailing arms and obviously brakes. Rear brake lines are old minus the wilwood braided hose section at the caliper.
I'll go out in a bit and see if a spacer/washer (or a few) will work. Right when the caliper mounting bolts slightly loosened up the rotor begins to spin (w/ car on jack stands and running in gear).
Thanks for the quick replies.
Rubber brake lines are date coded, and should be switched every 10 years.
Take a look at the bolt installation. When I was first installing mine I actually locked the rotor by putting the bolt in without a washer (or something like that) and I had actually bolted it into the disk and locked it down.
Make sure you're centered and using appropriate washers and bolt length.
Take a look at the bolt installation. When I was first installing mine I actually locked the rotor by putting the bolt in without a washer (or something like that) and I had actually bolted it into the disk and locked it down.
Make sure you're centered and using appropriate washers and bolt length.
Ok here we go. I double checking everything is centered, backed off the bolts and with the help of you guys I grabbed a flashlight and looked inbetween the back of the rotor and the caliper mounts. Sure enough the bolts were just long enough to bottom out the bolt threads on the rotor and the bolt head on the caliper mount. Wilwood sent washers to space out the bolts but obviously it wasn't enough for the drivers side. I added a thick washer/spacer on each bolt and good to go. Pics below for anyone in the future.
The bolts that come with the Wilwood rear calipers are too long. This is a known fact. Rather than a washer for a spacer, use distributor shims. if you need a more precise measurement. There are also shims available from McMaster Carr. Don't use a washer to move the caliper for the bolt length use shorter bolts. Use the shims to center the caliper on the rotor.
* The added washer is being used under the head of the bolt, not as a shim. The grip range being too long, not the centering being the issue from what's been noted. Unfortunately you cannot purchase a 1-3/8" long bolt..
Correct Todd, I actually had to add an extra thick washer to my bolts to offset it further back. Yes I could've cut them down if i wanted to, but the washers were available so I took that route.
I should correct the statement about bolts: if you go to Pegasus or Coast Fabrication you might score a nice AN7 bolt that will work for this without issue and possibly with a drilled head for safetywire even.
11-24-2018, 03:15 AM
Wilwood D8-4 driver rear locked up after stall
